MikeTheVapeDude

Where do I even get a new screen? Dude at the vape shop said he'd try to get me a replacement, but. I'm starting to wonder if having a DNA200 is even worth it. I love the TC, wire curves, all that. But I've had three now and they've all had issues, but the Reuleaux wasn't, messed up. I just saw this post, freaked out and decided to take matters into my own hands. Blah. I'm a one mod type of guy, I like to have ONE device, that I can depend on, and the DNA200 doesn't seem like that kind of device.

Evidently the screen still works. But like. if pressed down certain ways. HOW DO I FIX THIS?

I just tried to do the magic screen fix and while I didn't break anything, the screen flickered, then died. When moving it around I could get it to come back on for short periods, now it's just dead. I'd order a new screen but I'd F' that up too. Jesus, I wish there was an AT YOUR OWN RISK in big bold letters. Also I'd like to add I examined it, the ribbon just BARELY flexed when my button was pressed. Like a small vibration. I suck balls at building regulated devices and after I botched the Hana V200 510 replacement I vowed to never take apart another DNA again. I get the Reuleaux, I have battery life, I'm happy, I see this thread, and I break my screen. I'm ready to just, give up on DNA200's I swear. I hope the shop replaces my reuleaux, B&M down the road. To anyone as thick headed as me. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, THERE IS A CHANGE YOU WILL F YOUR SCREEN COMPLETELY. I say not worth it, I'd rather risk it dying on its own and still have a screen for, however long that takes. Have any Reuleaux screens ACTUALLY went out yet or is this all hysteria? I would just also like to add I BARELY even touched the cable and the screen started to flicker. I left two batteries in it just to check the screen as I did this and I wasn't using anything that could short. If I had any idea what kind of plastic VapingBad used I'd use it instead of trying the tuck. Maybe my ribbon was already going bad and me trying to tuck it in is what killed it. Maybe people are making this seem far easier than it is. Maybe I'm cursed with all DNA200 devices. Maybe this is entirely my fault because I'm an idiot. I'm not sure. I just feel people have not adequately stressed enough in this thread YOU CAN DESTROY YOUR SCREEN DOING THIS, EVIDENTLY VERY VERY EASILY. I recommend do not this, take your chances. I have steady surgeon hands, and I F'd it up in less than two seconds. I hold no hard feelings, I realise this is entirely my fault and will not put the blame on anyone else. But. AT YOUR OWN DAMNED RISK PEOPLE.

I use 98% Tin 2% Silver Solder and with a good iron, flux paste and tinning it stuck nicely. 16GA Stranded. IT isn't pretty, at all. But it works, and that's all that matters. I'm selling it the day my Vaporshark DNA200 gets in. I hate this mod. So much. To anyone having ground issues it's seriously very easy to fix, I have no idea why Tom didn't. I used a very short piece of 16 gauge copper wire, bent it so it wouldn't mess with the battery pack's position. I soldered onto the GND plate right next to the OUT plate for the positive 510 wire, then ran it up to the 510 threading, flattened the wire out against it, soldered that in place, then used a pinch of super glue to unsure nothing came undone (purely option). I also completely swapped the stock 510 wire with a piece of 16 gauge silver stranded wire and resoldered it. The mod is now 100% accurate, like dead accurate. It isn't off by an inch. I've since done some things to the 510 to reinforce the threads and now, finally, three weeks later, this beta test crapbox is the way it should've been made and works as it also should. If Hana is reading this. What is wrong with you people? Your customer support sucks, seriously. You take days to respond to emails and then treat me like a fool and tell me to try a different atomizer. I don't even think the people at Hana vape themselves, let alone test their mods. I feel like 95% of Hana Modz employees are sitting around using EGO Vape pens and throwing together mods, not testing them for more than 5 minutes and shipping them out the door. The list of errors on this mod: Horrid 510. I don't care what anyone says. A 510 with skimpy threads that has a 16mm hole? Then a landing pad and a ground plate, AND a stiff pin? Why? Bad ground. The DNA chip has a ground plate right next to the OUT plate for a very good reason, because it's a better, more accurate ground than the case, which is evidently liable to go out at any moment on one of these mods. I feel it's a matter of when, not if. Ribbon cable getting pinched on the fire button. Seriously, this should be a no-brainer to avoid. Once again, evidence for ZERO quality control and testing. JST 10-15amp connectors on a 200W mod. I realize they fixed this, but do they even understand electronics? Ungodly tight plate screws that are almost impossible to unscrew. A face plate with a finish that will easily wear off. Cheap, spinny buttons. Horrid solder jobs on everything. I touched them all up and I don't even consider myself good at soldering. Overall bad space management in the case altogether. Mods with defective chips out of the box. All these things should NOT be present on a $200 mod. I don't give a rats ass if this is a beta phase, your box should be made well, that's not a beta test, it's general modding. Your customer service is dumb and unhelpful and it always ends with "Send it to our technical support team to diagnose." Yeah, GREAT idea guys. Let's send out $200 mod, paying to do so, to the idiots who couldn't design it right in the first place, for weeks possibly, only to get it back and have it possibly mess up again. Yeah right. I'll never, ever, ever buy another Hana Modz product again in my entire life. I've said it before and I'll say it again. Vaporshark has always made the best retail DNA mods and probably always will. I'll go back to smoking cigarettes before I give Hana another dollar, even if they make the last mods on the planet and I can't make my own mods. Seriously, this mod is just, junk. The chip is amazing, but the mod is badly designed garbage that we paid $200 to be guinea pigs for. That's all it is guys. We paid $200 so Hana could sit back, count our money and wait on our mods to fail so they could iron out the obvious crap in the final production stage when they could've just TESTED their products. This company makes bad mods, their support sucks and from what I can tell they have no morals. To anyone reading this. DON'T buy a Hana V200. You might get one that works, but even if it does, it's liable to fail on you at any time and there's just nicer that can be had for the same price or even less.

I withdraw my help ticket, I got my device working just fine. I had to run a ground wire from the 510 threading to the GRND panel next to the positive 510 pin panel, which was a pain to solder but, she's fine now.

I ran a 16 gauge stranded copper wire from the plate that says GRND to the threads of the 510, soldered it up and closed her back up and she's doing fine now. Edit: All ground issues resolved, mod is working 100%. But I still want a vaporshark, it's so damned sexy. I got a trade set up for a Sigelei 150Tc, a charger and batteries. I have no ill conscious trading the mod now because it works 100% fine and I see no reason it would ever fail now that I got a better ground going on.

Not only is the 510 on my Hana F'd beyond repair I can't even get the board to function anymore. In kanthal it says like 86F and barely heats it and TC just will NOT work (shoots up to like 800F) Escribe is off the wall readings on everything and I can't even use the mod anymore. If you still have any reference mods left I'm out of options with this Hana.

It's a sad day. All of a sudden. Boom. My resistance is ALL OVER the place. Like .3 off. If I take a copper wire and lodge it in one of the screw holes of the case and touch it to the 510 it's mostly fixed (it's .01 off of what it was before now). So what can I do? I'm almost positive the ground is f'd. If I wiggle the positive wire around it comes down and up, but I resoldered it to no avail. So. Is there anyway I can properly reground the stock 510 or am I gonna have to tear the 510 out of the box completely like I had originally planned to? Over-ride ohms is the only way I can vape it right now EDIT: I have a piece of 14Ga Stranded Copper wire shoved into a section of the case I drilled up into with a very small drill bit ( I drilled up into the screw holes where the backplate screws on) and with that and solder seem to have gotten a pretty decent ground. Though the first chance I get I'm pulling the entire 510 or finding a better ground system. Why is it the 510 will ground to the back plate screw threads but no where else on the case with this method?

I am calm. I have low tolerance for stupidity. Let me hold your beer while you try it. [/QUOTE] Then I don't know how you stand yourself, and I don't drink. You're telling me using something that already has a solid ground as a ground won't work? If it doesn't, then I can make one. There's no flaw in my plan here, it's like you think it's impossible to make a ground. I'm working with METAL, and the 510 in the box is already solidly grounded, so I can ground the new 510 to the remnants of the old 510 (since I'm just drilling through it) and there you go. You'll be the first person who sees it when it's done, I promise.

I'm not someone who sends his stuff back to others to fix it, I'm not listening to myself talk, feedback is nice in any form, but you're so busy praising this 510 you seem to fail to realize you are one of the FEW who seems to have gotten a good one. Most of us didn't, and I've had wonderful FD and VT experiences. You're letting your own opinion rule your words here, if I want to replace my 510, I'm going to replace it, and you telling me it won't work and then giving an invalid reason for why it won't work isn't going to stop me. Then you bold out letters at me like I don't already know that, and it's like either you don't understand my plan or forgot that I'm leaving the stock 510 in the box completely, drilling through it and using it and the mod itself as a ground, then soldering the positive wire from the board to the pin in the new 510. I'm pretty good with electronics and I know them pretty well, and I have experience with box mods. I have no idea why you're so angry, just because you like your 510 and have had good experiences with it doesn't mean everyone else is in the same boat, and most of us don't want to send a $200 device out to let the people who SCREWED IT UP TO BEGIN WITH hold it hostage for maybe a month to fix it and maybe not even really fix it. Some people trust themselves more than companies, especially when said company is the one who F'd up. Sorry dude, but you need to calm down. And the reason I'm replacing my 510 is because the threads in it CAME OUT OF THE BOX, thin and like long-worn threads would be, but they were clearly new, two of my addy's and one of my tanks will just sink down past the threads (which I've fixed temporarily with my solution additive) and as they keep wearing my other devices will follow. When it gets bad enough, I'm drilling through the 510 already in the box, which obviously clearly has a solid ground going for it, and if needed I can make my own, and going from there. This WILL work, there's no reason it shouldn't, and I'm prepared to do it when the times comes and I will do it, I'm not asking for further input, I'm just hanging around in the thread to see if anyone else runs into new issues I might need to look out for and here you are telling me my plan sucks and I need to send my device back to the people who messed it up to begin with and wait for them, god knows how long, to MAYBE fix it and send it back. Sorry, nah son.

16mm hole.[/QUOTE] Drill through the ENTIRE 16mm 510 and ground it to the old one, solder new 510 pin to board. Or just use a mounting plate and a spacer after removing the old one.

The threads are like paper, before I modified it certain devices sunk down past the threads and hit the pin. I'm not understanding why a FD or VT wouldn't work well. You connect the wire, and you use a wire to get a real solid ground. People use them in DIY DNA200D mods well, so I cannot see any reason why it wouldn't work in the Hana. Also, I'll never send this thing to Hana unless it's an absolute brick. I don't even trust them to properly fix it, and god knows how long it'll be held hostage by them. My buddy sent in a V4 DNA40 for repair and got it back 43 days later only to have the same issue occur within a month or two. So that's last case. This 510 is not better than a Fat Daddy, this 510 sucks. Opinions are opinions, but I know I can get a solid positive and a solid ground, so there's no reason an aftermarket 510 would suffer in loss of quality of performance. Not to mention I've seen Hana V4's with Fat Daddy's in them working perfectly.

Unless you gut the device and want to spend a while beating and vicing at that thing, it's not coming out, not easily. Your best bet would be to take a fairly thin 510, like a LP V4 Fat Daddy, and drilling directly through the 510 connection and as you said, retrofitting it into the mod. The one that's in there is threaded in TIGHTLY and then there's glue on it. It's not coming easily. So either gut the mod and find a way to get a solid hold on that thing and TURN like you never have before. Or drill through it. That's basically the only two options you have unless you can get the one you already have to work. The threads in it are so thin for a non-stripped 510, and even though mine is good for the moment, I know in a month or two I'm gonna have to replace it. So, pick your poison. Retrofitting or brute force.

MSRP is needed in some cases, like juice companies (for example: Cuttwood) setting the minimum price that it can ever be sold at (but it can be sold higher) to avoid a particular store monopolizing the product in their area, but what HCigar is doing seems a bit overboard. It's necessary, but not so much so. But, it's not the worst thing going on. It's crap, but there's worse crap. I just don't think they're doing it for the right reasons, they're doing it for greed. It's also screwing over the customers in the end as Dark said. Why does the customer get punished for what the seller did? That's not right at all, but punishment on that level is outrageous anyway.

I notice no difference at all, but I used a VERY small amount. I think it was mostly my 510 needing to be broken in, which I've never had happen. TC still works great, resistance reads great. I thought the same thing and SE and Escribe showed me it's still a-going great. It was the build, it had a short in it because half the time I'd have to mess with the screw but it wasn't reading the resistance right. New build the problem went away completely. I assumed they went to a nut and a ground plate as I thought that it would have gotten in the way of the case ground as well.[/QUOTE] I didn't install a new 510, just, made the one in it slightly better. All my issues are resolved and the device works great, now I'll be straying from this thread for now.

Why does it say 5-200W? As a DNA200D device owner, I know it's 1-200W. Sketchy right then and there, that MSRP crap is appalling as well. Either this is an authentic chip, inserted into a cheaply made mod by greedy business men who know nothing about the specs of the device or even care, or it's straight up fake.

I Q-Tipped a solution onto my threads by loctite and it made them oh-so-slightly thicker and moved the wire soldered to the pin slightly. All 510 issues solved. So now my device is all good. Question, using TC, does the DNA200 has a 'dry coil' thing? I vape at 480F with a preheat wattage of 75W, then it drops down to 48W. But I've been getting dry hits. Any reason why?

What would be the WH on the V200? 900Mah is 9.99WH so I assume 950 is 10.545WH? Correct me if I'm wrong. Plus, this has a 1amp charger and it only charges at like .44A

Would a 2S lipo work?

Bob, are you aware of the DNA200 devices that take only 2 18650's? I heard they cap out at 130 Watts, enough for you, but you could save space if the device is made right. Then again, if you vape such low wattages, an 800 Mah 2S Lipo is TINY, could give you the capped 130 watts and save space. I'm not sure if a 2S Lipo would work, but if two 18650's will I don't see why not.. Though I'm not sure of the 130 watts dual 18650 option, but I see a lot of modders offering it as an option so I'm sure it is true.

Why? What's so great about the preheat function is the access to higher wattages, your coil heats up instantly, and curves out at your base temperature. Useful for nickel claptons and such. Plus 40W never did it for me anyway. Also, the V200 is very small, I don't get the wheel barrow thing at all.. Also, how do you just sandwich that tape in the board and remove the glue? And no my 510 is not broken but it has skimpy little thin threads and I just don't like it.

So Hana Modz could send me the same 510? And Tom, I pretty much am doing that, but I never tap my 510's. Also, if I unscrew the board, and remove it, what's the process of doing so and then putting it back in? I'm only going to desolder the wire on the stock 510, so once the board is unscrewed, what's on the other side and what's the process of removing and putting it back in like?

So I take it this is not a reckless and/or stupid plan? This is actually okay? I'm probably going to sand the very edges of the LP down so it'll snugly fit down past the edges of the stock 510 cup. Like I said, if there's anyway to remove the entire 510, I'm all for it.

So could I run a ground wire off the new 510 and solder it in? To the box I suppose. Or would it automatically ground to the remnants of the old 510? I'll post pictures if I do this and it works, for sure. I'm all for helping others, I just hate to rush in blind, especially if my chances are slim. THE PLAN: Take a drill and completely drill through the 510. Not the entire cup, the part where the indents raise up and are slotted, the threads and the pin. Turn that entire area from a 510 to a hole. Insert FD F4 LP Short into hole, insert ground ring (if needed) and nut, further secure with loctite super glue. Solder the same wire used in the stock box to the new 510 pin, and if needed ground it out (need help on if and how if so I need to do this.) Profit. (Kidding) Then hopefully it's all good in the hood. Please, if there's holes in my plan, or anyone has concerns, let me know. I'm not attempting anything until I get some feedback. BACKUP PLAN: Gut box and put parts in new box. Really, REALLY would love to avoid doing this but, whatever I have to do. I love this chip too much to miss out because of a bad box it's contained in, and I'm too cheap to go spend $200+ on a new one. If there's anyway to remove the 510 entirely on this box, that's also viable and I'd love to do that if possible.

I'm putting on my combat boots and going in. I'm going to take a drill bit and size it up to where it's just SLIGHTLY larger than the actual 510 inside the cup, gut the box, safely, and just drill RIGHT through this thing, the whole 510, threads and all, pin too, will be replaced by a hole. I am then going to take a FD V4 Low Profile short and slide it into this hole and secure it with a nut and loctite super glue, if I'm correct, the V4 LP Short is 1mm, the same size if not ever so slightly bigger than the space the 510 cup is, will flush fit down into it, and it's 22mm to 22mm. Then Rewire the 510, ground it out and.. yeah. Anybody wanna stop me if this is a horrible idea? Or give me an alternative. I'm not doing it until someone who's had an up-close look at the guts of this box already tells me if it's possible, so. EDIT: Took it apart, looks fairly simple. What is the 510 grounded to?