MikeTheVapeDude

If I had a link I'd give it to you, I had this custom machined when my snow wolf's 510 bit the dust. The threads are a bit beefier than standard 510 threads but not so much it ruins what's left of the threads, and unlike 510 to 510 adapters there's no pin inside it, which is why the .5mm ring is so thin, so the atomizer can still make good contact with the pin inside the 510 already. The 510 cup on the Hana made it sit flush perfectly, which worked out well but I still would like to replace this.. so what if the hole for the hana's 510 is 16-18mm? a 22mm 510 can easily fit over it and with the use of a spacer.. this is why I make box mods, why am I asking questions. Fast-Tech has a VERY similar adapter, but I have no idea if I can find it, I will try though buddy.

This 510 is horrible. I threaded in a .5mm thick (Yeah it's thin) 510 to 510 threader that basically just replaces the threads and creates a small .5mm metal space inbetween the pin and the addy, and this pin is tall anyway. Still the same 510 pin as it's just a thread replacer, and now that the pin is a little further from the addy stuff threads in and out MUCH better, I'm leaving this on until I replace the 510 somehow, because you literally can't even tell it's there when something is on the mod. Actually kinda looks better, because it flush fits inside the little cup around the 510 itself, and has the FD style airflow lines. Hm, might just loctite this thing in permanently and leave it be, it works AND looks better with it on. Resistance still reads fine and the pins still make firm, good contact. Stuff just threads on much better and easier, and now it almost looks like I have a 22mm Varitube 510.

Mine sits flush fine, I just noticed the threads in the 510 are a little thin compared to my other 510's. If they strip or go, I'll screw an old Stillare deck on, snip the 510 wire and yank it out like I did with the snow wolf, then find someway to put a FD V4 LP Short in there. Or maybe just transfer the chip to another box, I'm not gonna complain about a mod that's working a lot better than some of the other people on here's Hana's. Knock on wood.

Is stuff a bit more wobbly than normal on anyone else's 510s?

I think the 510 itself is fine the pin in it is just so damned stiff that sometimes stuff sits crooked until I wrench it down which I will NOT do because that can wear the threads.

Sadly the 510 in my hana is a little weak. I know I haven't stripped it but damn. How hard would it be to replace? I don't feel like sending it into hana and waiting

Just tried to thread an old herakles into the Hana and it missed every thread. None of my other tanks or addys do it. My newer herakles works but the old one works on every other mod. Weird

I have yet to give it a full charge. Working on it right now. But cell #1 is like .03 lower than the other two which are the same voltage. Cell one is at 4.14 and two and three are at 4.17. This okay/normal? Will they all hit 4.2 at FC?

If the 510 F'd up I'm fully capable of resoldering the wire or even replacing the 510 flat out. I have several 14mm, 22mm and 28.5mm Fat Daddy V4 LP's, Shorts, Normals and Varitubes on hand as well as 12, 14 and 16 gauge stranded and solder copper and silver wire. So if it were to go, I'm confident I could fix it but it's working 100% atm. The screen issue I don't know. I can take stuff apart and put it back together, my issue with making my own mod was getting the box itself made right, not the wiring. So worst case scenario I believe I could fix it, but if the screen issue is fixed, should the 510 F itself I could easily fix it. The date on Escribe was the 4th of August. Two days ago. So it's the newest batch, Navy Blue. I just, love your chip man. It's a dream come true. I'm an electrical engineer and a PC nerd with a $6,200 gaming PC and a $5,100 AutoCAD PC and a $2,800 Workstation PC as well as several high-end laptops. I love programming and design as well. So EScribe is like, home, for me, and I love having the option. I love the screen, the easy of navigation and performance, and I especially love this mod for it's size and feel. It's my dream mod, with my dream chip. Seriously, Evolv, you guys knocked the ball out of the park and into space with this chip, I understand they've had issues but it's hard to imagine something with this level of innovation not having some issues at launch, and I'm confident you guys will fix them all and make the chip that much better. A bit off topic, but do you guys ever have plans with firmware updates to increase the output wattage? Not a needed option for me, though I have vaped at 550W on a 4S Lipo PWM Unregulated Mod. But 200W on this baby is plenty for me, just curious.

I adore my V200. I'm surprised how much life 950mah can give vaping at 105 watts constantly. I adore the hell out of it, I do. Then I got on here, with a mind full of questions and I saw this thread. Oh hey! I just got one. Then I'm greeted with: OMFG, SHE'S DOWN, SHE'S DYING, HE'S DYING, THEY'RE ALL DYING, ABANDON SHIP. My heart sank. So if they fixed the issues that's a relief for me. I took mine apart and nothing seemed out of place. It's not the soldering aspect. I've wired a lot of OKL and Raptor boxes. It's not the wiring and soldering that turned me off of making my own. It was dremeling/angle grinding (two tools of which I have neither of) for the screen. I can drill like a boss, but I've had no experience or even have the needed tools to clear out a section for the screen. I was dead set on getting a 100C 1850Mah MaxAmp 3S lipo and making one, but as I said, I got turned off. The most viable option I saw was the 1590G DNA200D faceplate with everything ready, but from experience working with 1590G's I didn't see me having the room I wanted with that faceplate.

I'm really scared after reading this thread.. I just got my DNA200 Hana in the mail today. Configured on the 4th of August, board programmed on the first of July. Reads Ohms accurately, the buttons all feel fine, zero issues out of it. Is there anyone with a Hana V200 that ISN'T messing up..? I really hope mine doesn't because I'm a box modder but don't have the tools needed to make a DNA200D, I usually make series, lipos and parallel boxes. Unregulated. Did one SX350J but it was in a 3D printed box. So, anyone have a Hana that's been working like a charm for the entire time they've had it? The only weird thing I'm noticing is on my Uwell Crown tank, which takes 316L SS Wire coils, it will read the resistance right but assume it's in TC mode, but if I unscrew it and hit NO on new coil it works fine. Does this on no other device, only the SS Wire coils. Figured it was due to them having a TCR rating that can work for TC. So.. any good Hanas?