MikeTheVapeDude

It would be cool to see parallel setups or 1S setups in the feature for sure, that's probably the route I'll take as I now have legitimate quality soldering tools because I started making PWM 3S mods.

To be honest I prefer 18650's due to the generally lower internal resistance they have, 26650's seem to be re-wrapped to hell, there's not many genuine 26650 brands out there, so you end up with all these '50A' 26650's that are 20-25A batteries that have a considerable IR. 85%, damn, that's quite a hit. I well expected it to be lower, buck on a three cell with Evolv's known precision is going to give results at the higher end of the spectrum, but 85% is quite a hit in efficiency. That's still pretty good though. The cut-off voltage having a lower charge under load is wonderful to hear about, especially since it's a single cell device. Most mods keep the VCoff at the 18650 general cutoff of 2.9-3.1V.

My main wonder with the DNA75 is the fact it's went from the high efficiency of a buck-only system rated at 97% to a boost-buck system. So has the DNA75 lost ANY efficiency over the 200 due to this change? I know Evolv is, very capable. I just know that in general, both through career experience and use experience that buck-only systems tend to have a much higher efficiency. I'm not saying it's impossible with a buck/boost DC-DC converter, but, it is a thought. I know with a single cell, even 75-80W can be pushing it. Batteries do wonderful things like sag and then there's drop on the mod, and since the HCigar DNA75 is seemingly meant to be used with high internal resistance 26650's I figured the battery sag off of a single cell 26650 setup would definitely limit the wattage at around 75-80W on a buck/boost system if it was still expected to be efficient and affordable. I have an intimate understanding of electronics thanks to my education and career as an engineer, but when it comes to software, programming, the etc's of such, I'm up to speed but I'm not way up there like the people who are programming these boards are. So I'm not entirely familiar with how one would go about programming a board like this, I could easily imagine how the board was made in relation to its idea of use on the electronics end, but past that my knowledge is pretty limited. This is why I was asking. My worry with a single cell mod is, with a cutoff of, 2.9V I assume, maybe 3V, that once you got down to the 3.4V range if you were at a higher setting, like 60W plus, it'll sag past the cutoff and create issues. I'm not a big fan of single battery mods, both due to a lack of power capability and how hard single cells get strained in devices. I'm really glad to see Evolv didn't release a single battery 100W device like some companies are doing, you can always count on Evolv to do the right thing.

Is there anything major the DNA75 can do the DNA200 can't? That's the main thing I want to know, because I basically religiously run NiFe-30 and SS430 fused claptons in high wattage TC and I'd hate to miss out for the lack of wattage.

I'm aware of this, there's still new firmware for the DNA200 on it I'd like to try. That's the good. Links break, doesn't mean Evolv had to have taken it down, things happen. Even if there is bugs, I'm very aware of how to revert back to the February firmware I've been using. As far as features go, the light under the firing button in the only DNA75 feature I know of the 200 doesn't have. If there's 'all these features' as you say, then my question which you dismissed definitely holds water. So which is it?

The board's are different, and the DNA75 seems to have features the 200 doesn't. I can't get the new Escribe75 off the link, if you have the .exe for it Bill could you upload it somewhere for me? I'd like to try the new 4-25 firmware on my 200's.

The max output voltage has been increased past 9V on the DNA200's newest update. It seems to be at 9.2V.

So is the DNA75 successing the DNA200, or is it just an alternative for lower wattage vapers who like small, single cell mods? So far the only differences I've seen are the LED light on the Hcigar box, but I never vape under 90-100W even in TC so the DNA75 will never be a mod for me. I'm just hoping the DNA75 and 133/200 all have the same capabilities and functionality, just different sized packages for different tastes.

The DNA75 is coming soon if you like single battery low wattage mods and want Escribe.

Kanthal is a wire with a VERY stagnant resistance, and in depth testing on the G2 proves the 'protection' is far from accurate. Rather using electrical ping or TCR values, an accurate experience, or anything remotely close to one, with kanthal TC, isn't currently possible. I wouldn't cross your fingers here. I don't see Evolv rolling the dice on a VERY inaccurate form of TC, they're a company known for accuracy and quality while HOhmTech is surrounded with a flood of controversy on the G2 mod. Your best bet would to be inputting a custom profile for Kanthal on Escribe and working with it, I don't see any firmware update from Evolv being able to magically add in this function given the board design is already very much completed. Firmware is just firmware, you can't make a board do things it wasn't designed to be capable of (with good reason, I might add) with firmware changes.

Actually I was wrong, it does this when a charger is inserted during firing, not taken out. So if the mod begins to charge when the mod is firing to an atomizer, it will display check battery. I just bought a 20 foot monster USB cable with stranded silver wiring for $40, so I think I'm set, it even has replaceable heads for both ends in case the connections wear.

Setting the res to zero is incorrect (all mods have SOME internal resistance, no matter how well they're wired, incorrect settings can cause losses of power, usually on the 510's end of things.), nor does it fix it.

EDIT: FOUND THE ISSUE, When hitting the mod on a charger, if the charger becomes loose (AKA the charge starts mid hit) it will display check battery. Try it on your own mod, all mine do it. SOLVED. I really need new USB cables, all mine are 8-10 months old and are REALLY loose in the DNA USB ports, so when I'm hitting the mods on the charger sometimes the loose connection on the cable will stop and then start the charge in the middle of firing and cause the Check Battery warning. No issue, no problem, no anomaly, but an interesting find IMO.

EDIT: FOUND THE ISSUE, When hitting the mod on a charger, if the charger becomes loose (AKA the charge starts mid hit) it will display check battery. Try it on your own mod, all mine do it. SOLVED. I really need new USB cables, all mine are 8-10 months old and are REALLY loose in the DNA USB ports, so when I'm hitting the mods on the charger sometimes the loose connection on the cable will stop and then start the charge in the middle of firing and cause the Check Battery warning. No issue, no problem, no anomaly, but an interesting find IMO.

It's universal across all builds. The voltage displayed (output) by the DNA board when metered is VERY, VERY close to the oscilloscope touch reads I got on output. So it's not lost voltage nor is it build variations. Each device has its own maximum voltage output that is universal across builds. Try it on your own DNA200 and see if it makes it to the full 9.00V.

LostVape Efusion DNA200 capped at 8.91 volts. Variations continue.

EDIT: FOUND THE ISSUE, When hitting the mod on a charger, if the charger becomes loose (AKA the charge starts mid hit) it will display check battery. Try it on your own mod, all mine do it. SOLVED. I really need new USB cables, all mine are 8-10 months old and are REALLY loose in the DNA USB ports, so when I'm hitting the mods on the charger sometimes the loose connection on the cable will stop and then start the charge in the middle of firing and cause the Check Battery warning. No issue, no problem, no anomaly, but an interesting find IMO.

I know there's a ton of shapeway's but those are outrageously expensive, I don't see the value in paying nearly the price of the DNA200 board for a plastic box. Just something moderately sized with cut-outs and buttons.

I'm just not a fan of the way that thing looks, I like smooth top 510's, though I'm sure it is great. I'm looking for a box, that can fit this lipo, mount the board and have the button holes, screen square, USB square and optionally the 510 hole (I can drill this if need be) already done up.

I have Varitube and Fat Daddy 510's for days, and I know from experience they work fine. The SMY 510 just came loose on me, then the connections were F'd to hell. The ground and pos-pin connections were still good, it would vape, but the cold ohms would bounce around from the real res of .57 to .62 every hit, and the nominal ohms on the AA on EScribe said like .9. No idea why that happened with both connections intact, but either way I'm just looking for a good 3D printed box that will fit the board, the 1,500mah lipo and a 14-22mm varitube 510. 3D printed with all the work done (holes, buttons, etc.) is what I really would prefer.

The board is fully wired with the lipo wired to it. There's basically zero work in putting it in another mod, my only wonder is (since I do not have precise measuring tools) what kind of lipo is in the SDNA 200 (Version 2 AKA Final Production version) so I can look it up to find diameters, if nobody knows, maybe some diameters. I really would rather go with a 3D printed box I can just seat the board in, I'm not looking to drill a bunch of holes and get my megaDIY on, I just want something I can throw the board and lipo in pre-wired and mount it up, then throw a 14mm varitube 510 in, solder two connections and have a new DNA200 with a 510 that doesn't make me want to vomit. Always the 510 in my mods, ALWAYS the 510 that goes bad.

Salvaged the lipo and fully wired board, tossed the box. Looks like I'm going DIY boys.

I'm fully aware of how to disassemble it, the 510 nut is just like ON there, going at it with all sorts of pliers could not dislodge it.

The 510 on my updated SMY SDNA200 just came loose, and then the ohms started bouncing all over the place. I got the lipo out but there's no way at all for me to pull the bolt holding the 510 loose, so I'm likely going to have to drill through the 510 to remove it. I'm not asking for help, I know how to replace a 510 and I may not even bother, this is just a warning to people looking at this mod because I saw that the updated version had a lot of praise. But the 510 is NOT seated well and even through the ground and pin positive are STILL 100% connected the ohms are all over the place and I don't even know why that is right now. Be wary of this mod, or honestly, anything with SMY's name on it. Not a brand known for quality, I can't believe I got sucked in after my experience with the God 180 like a year ago.

I'm not running it at 200W, I'm running it at 135W. The output voltage maximum is 8.74V on the SMY no matter what resistance, when I cap out the voltage, it caps at 8.74. I know it's supposed to be 9V. This has absolutely nothing to do with wattage.