Mad Scientist
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Posts posted by Mad Scientist
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I think Kim Jong-un started vaping. Apparently he has a lot of questions.
Right now the NSA is busy scanning all of our computers. Apparently they got an alert about a lot of folks in USA using a forum receiving a lot of "chatter" from a communist dictatorship overseas.
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In addition, from the photos, you have the temp set to 250 degree C. That's hot enough to burn cotton.
Try 210 degrees C or less and see if the results differ. -
Looks good.laadam said:Before anything else goes up in smoke, how does this look?
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lexalove said:
OK Mr Pedantic lol, vaping TiO2 is not a good idea it may be carcinogenic.
So instead of all the diatribe why not just say it may not be carcinogenic, nothing is proven one way or the other, but it would be a good idea to bin the coil?
No diatribe on this end. Whatever, I'm done. Hugs lol. -
lexalove said:
So you admit there is no scientific proof either way. Therefore me, you, nobody knows for a fact if it's harmful or not. So regarding vaping on a Ti coil that may have oxidisation on it, why take the risk when there is no need to?
I advised the poster to bin his coil after he had an obvious hot spot, wire is relatively cheap, there is no need to take the risk no matter how small any perceived risk may be. Just wrap another coil, vape and be happy.
Don't perpetuate one myth by denouncing another perceived myth when NOBODY really knows the facts either way.
Look, you said TiO2 is a "carcinogen and causes lung damage." That's all I disagree with. I think I've been crystal clear.
I never said I use Ti or don't. I never said it was safe or not safe. All I said is that the statement you made is not backed by the science, is nothing more than folklore, and it is a bad idea to continue to repeat it.
Your aim is, I believe, to warn folks that vaping TiO2 might not be a good idea. Why don't you just say that? -
Typical actual study rather than "prevention principle":
http://annhyg.oxfordjournals.org/content/49/6/461.full
"The epidemiological investigations evaluated the mortality statistics at 11 European and 4 US TiO2 manufacturing plants. They concluded that there was no suggestion of any carcinogenic effect associated with workplace exposure to TiO2."
"The epidemiology studies investigated whether there was a link between increased incidence of lung cancer and exposure to TiO2 dust. In all the studies the overall conclusion was the same: âThe results of the studies do not suggest a carcinogenic effect of TiO2 dust on the human lung'".
There are many more studies like this.
The thing of it is, we know that TiO2 is bad for rats but not mice or hamsters. We can't do a controlled study on humans because that is obviously unethical. European and US Health studies of TiO2 factory workers have not revealed an increase in cancer rates. From this it cannot be reasonably concluded that TiO2 is a hazard, yet that is exactly what was concluded by some international health organizations and then spread and repeated far and wide.
The bottom line is no scientific proof. Yes, it might be dangerous or it might not be. I'm not trying to be a jerk or anything but I bristle when the same junk science gets repeated over and over long enough that the general public picks it up and repeats it over and over and low and behold, something with no legitimate scientific proof becomes fact. -
We're not talking about how much TiO2, if any, I might or might not inhale or what I do or don't do. I have not stated what I do or don't do. What I have stated is that it is incorrect, not to mention a bad idea, to run around perpetuating what amounts to a wives' tale about the effects of inhaling TiO2.lexalove said:No idea what that last part of hyperbole meant but you do what you feel is best. Inhale as much TiO2 as you want and be happy.
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You are spreading folklore, not science. The way the studies were conducted, everything is a carcinogen. I can design a study that will kill lab rats with oxygen. Should we say all over the internet that oxygen is a poison?[/QUOTE]lexalove said:[QUOTE=Mad Scientist][QUOTE=lexalove][. . . Titanium dioxide is a known carcinogen which can cause lung damage . . .
I think it's well accepted that Titanium Dioxide is a bad thing to inhale on a regular basis. Years ago people used to say cigarettes were harmless, but we know better now don't we. If you wish to take the risk that's fine, it's personal choice at the end of the day and who am I to tell you what risks to take with your own body.
I was giving advice to a fellow vaper. It is his choice if he heeds that advice or not.
[/QUOTE] I'm not trying to start an argument but it's not "well accepted" and in terms of the existing panic based on conjecture rather than facts among the general public against vaping, it doesn't help us if we ourselves add to it. This is another case of repeating something often enough makes it true. If you want to caution someone that the effects of inhaling TiO2 are not fully known and remain controversial, that's great. If you want to say some very poorly designed studies indicate inhaling ridiculously high concentrations of very fine TiO2 dust may be harmful, that's great. When you republish the garbage that it's a known carcinogen and causes lung damage, that's folklore not advice. As far as who takes what risks, you are reading something into this conversation that's not there. -
You are spreading folklore, not science. The way the studies were conducted, everything is a carcinogen. I can design a study that will kill lab rats with oxygen. Should we say all over the internet that oxygen is a poison?lexalove said:[. . . Titanium dioxide is a known carcinogen which can cause lung damage . . .
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For 40 mA you can go as thin as 32 AWG (actually 33 if you can find any). Anything thicker will work well.
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As another tip, a pair of anti-wicking tweezers will prevent this type of thing on your next build. I had two pairs of some reasonable gauge given to me years ago and of course they don't see much use but here's the perfect application. I'm sure you could get a pair on eBay that are close enough in gauge to do the job.jrfhoutx said:Exactly what I was thinking of doing. If it were a Marantz that's what I'd do, but those aren't exactly running high voltages or amperages, so thought I'd ask around here before I followed through...
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The most convenient solder pad is marked "Gnd" next to "Out" at the top of the board. Check the data sheet at page 12. It shows a good outline of the board along with pin out. The "Gnd" gets connected to the 510 shell. The "Out" gets connected to the 510 center pin.lalemandrew said:So I can run the ground to the 510 connector off the board
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If that happened here I would super glue the pad back down and reflow the solder at the far end of the fuse.
Do at your own risk, etc. -
B- to battery pack negative, B+ to battery pack positive. Balance connector as shown on data sheet. Wire the 510 with 2 wires as indicated in the data sheet. Using the box as a conductor for ground seems to have given some folks a lot of problems. It works fine if you actually get solid, low contact resistance, high current carrying capacity connections to the box. Achieving that is not as trivial as it may sound. An extra wire for the 510 instead of using the box as ground is much more certain.lalemandrew said:Then for the ground do I have to run wire from there to side of box or something
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lalemandrew said:
Do u have a picture of what the board looks like soldered on
Data sheet has pictures.
http://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/file?id=2358427 -
I think the pack may be beyond dead. Are you using the most recent firmware on the board? I seem to remember seeing an issue where the very early firmware allowed the batteries to get too low in an idle state of,the mod.
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One problem with not using any of the balance connector pins and just telling the mod it's a power supply is there will be no low cell cutoff function and the battery meter won't work. That combination spells a lot of damaged batteries and possibly flames and fire when you try to recharge them externally. It's only a few wires to connect it all properly and well worth the effort.MuTong said:Thanks UKDTweak and Mad Scientist,
I don't have a clear description of my question.
Even if I do not use USB charging function(external charger), all of the connecting line is necessary? -
MuTong said:
I want to use two 18650 batteries instead of battery in vtbox200. Space(72*35*22mm) should be able to lay down 18650?2 battery box.
1.Can I just connect the output line to the dna200 chip and USB only for updating the firmware?
2.Annex can be used for all 18650 * 2 ?
3.I have to do is to update the discharge curve, choose 2-cell?
Great minds can differ so I have a different opinion for answers lol.
1. In device monitor under "Diagnostics" choose "Set USB Current Limit" and set it to 0. This will disable USB charging if that's what you want. Read on though -- that's not what you want.
2. I don't know what "Annex" means in this context.
3. If you are using 2 batteries, select 2 cells under the Mod tab in device monitor and setup the Wh capacity of the pack using the calculator. Now you want the low cell cuttoffs to work to avoid destroying your batteries, and having the battery meter work would be a plus also, not to mention having USB balance charging work. At the balance tap using the pin numbering convention of pins 1 through 4, pin 1 is "ground," connect pin 1 to B-, pin 2 to the junction of +- on your two batteries, pin 3 to pin 4, pin 4 to B+. If you do this, USB charging will work, low cell cutoff will work and the battery meter will work. If you don't do this, you're on your own lol. -
I wrote out a long reply and the realized you're talking about the 510 and not the screen lol. Oops.Russ ModCrate said:we can manufacture them however it's not our design and we don't intend to clone one of our suppliers products without permission. We haven't asked but I'm gonna go ahead and assume this is something they would like to keep for themselves. And there's absolutely nothing wrong with that it is an excellent designed connector. As far as a 1590 be enclosure goes that is in the works as well as a few other things.
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I think it uses the cold resistance times a calculated TCR for the temp from the TCR curve for the temp delta desired and then knows how much resistance "should" increase to reach set temp. When you fire it applies power and expects to see the resistance increase proportionally within those calculations. If it doesn't, it thinks you have a wire type with too low TCR so drops out of temp mode.nystyletaco said:Not really what I was asking. It seems like there is some sort of condition that triggers the DNA to realize that it can perform TC vs materials that it cannot (like Kanthal). What I'm trying to figure out is what that condition is. I rebuilt my coil again with 5 wraps of 26ga SS 316L. Resistance of approx .6ohm but again it doesn't sense that it can perform temp control with this material despite having the TCR values for SS 316L added to this profile.
Edit: Now I'm even more confused. I unscrewed my atomizer multiple times on my original profile and never got it to register TC. I created a new profile, locked the ohms and uploaded the TCR values to that. After switching to that profile, now it registers TC on both my new profile and the original profile I was trying before
The higher the cold resistance, the more it is a factor in the calculation as indicated. Same with higher TCR. The opposite for lower values of each. Low cold resistance coupled with low TCR of the wire makes for less temperature dependent resistance increase when adding power to heat the coil. There must be limits -- you may have found what they are. Possibly the locking resistance thing was enough to have the measured cold resistance come up just high enough for it to work.
I would try a SS coil of higher cold resistance -- maybe get extreme and go for 0.2 Ohms cold (with the appropriate TCR curve entered in the profile) to see what it does. The higher cold resistance, despite the low TCR of SS, "should" be enough total temp dependent change in coil resistance for TC to work. I don't know what the limits are -- would take a lot of experimentation to find it exactly for any particular manufacturer's board, but there is a number representing cold resistance times TCR of the wire, below which TC won't work reliably so knows enough not to try. It will drop out of TC mode below that limit. -
UKDTweak said:
Sorry alistairs, you did not read my post properly, I pointed out that I know about the ohms lock... the issue is if the board decides while im out and about, to set the wrong ohms because I Don't have ohms lock on, there is nothing I can do but wait for it to sort itself out or I can get home to my PC... so it would be handy be able to manually dial in the ohms myself via the chip.
anyway I can see its not a popular idea so fair enough, ill just have to get used to setting ohms lock on and hope the chip does not auto fire again, as every time it does that I have to pull the batteries and without ohms lock on it registers the wrong ohms. Hopefully I can find out whats causing the auto fire and cure it.
Definitely figure out the autofire issue before going further (is something squeezing the fire button internally in your mod?).
As a work around for the resistance issue, you can set up a profile for each atty with ohms locked and the actual cold resistance entered in the resistance box (I tried it and it worked). You can select the profile for each atty without escribe connected.
Keep a not-ohm-locked profile for each wire type you use so you can use it with refinement, but you can also switch to an ohm locked profile for each atty if you want to "hot swap" attys. -
Trying to vape at that temp is ridiculous IMHO but if you want ridiculous temp, increase the TCR in escribe. VG starts to convert to gross tasting poisonous stuff at around 280 C. A vape at a true 350 C would have an "interesting" taste.vidalcris said:I would like to be able to set 350°C as temperature control value.
Why is the dna200 only able to go to 300°C ?
This is supposed to be the best chipset on the market, so please add this option !-
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I'm no lipo expert but 40 mV difference under load doesn't set off any alarms in my head. Your cell 3 might just be a bit weaker than the other 2. Edit: Did a little more reading and it seems as much as 50 mV difference is OK balance even when charging. Your 40 mV difference under load has got to be OK.
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Do you have another pack to test with? Might just be a bad cell. When you say lower, how much lower?scoopy said:My setup with a MaxAmps 2250 has been fine for months and now cell 3 seems to be draining more than the other 2....It charges back fine but when u take a puff with device monitor up u can see cell 3 gets lower.... .any ideas anyone?
screw stays/spacers for board
in Installation and Assembly
Posted
Ideally the board should be removable just in case it craps the bed, fuse, etc. I think if you're talking about coating the inside of the box with a silicone sealant thick enough so it can't be worn through, I don't see why that wouldn't work. The wires for battery and 510 are thick enough to support the board in position if all it does is sit in the box. I wouldn't use silicone sealant as an adhesive though because then there's no way to get the board back out.