Mad Scientist
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Posts posted by Mad Scientist
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Glad to hear you got it going. Once you have it all put together and working, post pics of it in the show your DNA thread.Jvape78 said:Finally figured it out. .the ground pin had come loose in the pad where it is soldered to the board. That little dude cost me every night after work for the last 6 days! I always learn the hard way. Anyways thanks for your assistance. It helped me figure out the issue .
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There is definitely a wiring problem or a board problem. To isolate, do you have a voltmeter? What jumps at me is showing voltage on cell 3 with the pins marked "2" and "3" shorted together and connected to B+ (Which should be impossible of course at the anticipated currents in the balance taps). Can you measure the actual voltage presented at the balance tap pads across the "2" and "3"? It should read zero of course. Likewise, measure across those pins and B+ ; should also read zero. Then measure across B- to pin marked "1" ; should read the cell 1 voltage shown in device manager. Measure across pin marked "1" to pin marked "2" ; should read the cell 2 voltage shown in device manager. Also, can you post a photo of your wiring. My eyesight isnt great but some of the guys here have been able to spot some subtle flaws by looking at the actual wiring. As another thought, when you say "twisted together" and "attached" you mean soldered, yes?Jvape78 said:Ground is run to b neg battery tray. 1 is run to bridge on battery tray. 2 and 3 are twisted together at the end and attached to positive on battery tray. Thanks for your help. I've rebuilt this thing over 30 times no shit. .about to loose it!
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As a matter of personal preference I'm not a fan of the boxer but that print looks of fantastic quality. Where did you get it?FireBALL said:Alumide print, dual 18650
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Can't be the wire gauge to the balance tap. Might be the way it's wired though. What does device manager report as the cell and pack voltages?Jvape78 said:I've been having a tough go at getting my chip to work properly in my build. I see that recommended wire size for the balancing tap wires is 20 GA or a bit bigger. .I bought a pre wired tap from my local rc store that uses 22 gauge. Could this be the reason I can't get my chip to stay powered on for more than 3 seconds? I know my wiring is correct and I've set chip to 2 cell and loaded the curve so I'm not understanding what the heck else I can do here. I didn't know if 22 gauge would be enough difference to cause this or not.
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Yup. At first, all the single 18650 mods sit on the shelf. After a bit, all the other mods sit on the shelf too lol. As of right now, once the settings are set the way you like it, DNA200 will deliver by far the best vape experience that can be had.
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Dare I mention hot glue lol? It has its uses. It can be machined. It sticks. It can be removed. It can also make an awful mess when used indiscriminately lol.
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I'm on the same page as VapingBad. The FD 510s I have are used as atty stands. The VT is much more durable and easier to work with. The evolv is in its own class and there is no substitute.Droopydroors said:I use Fatdaddy vapes 510. Is this considered a decent 510 for temp with the dna200? If not what should I be using. Or I guess which one is the best to use in a 3d printed box?
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Looks great. I am also thinking about the silver one (no matter what I do my stuff always gets scratched somewhere -- must be the elves at night lol). Where did you get it?UKDTweak said:I got mine this morning, nice little mod, i had the Esquard and its a taller but still a good fit in the hand.
Heres a picture of it beside my 1550p Dual 18650 DNA200, for comparison, its only slightly taller and wider tehan teh 1550p box, but same depth...
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Hello @Rocky2015, any updates? I've been stalking vaporDNA, VapeNW, VaporBeast, wetvapes, vape95, etc., etc., hoping to see "in stock" appear. No joy lol. Thanks for any info.[/QUOTE]rocky2015 said:[QUOTE=Mad Scientist][QUOTE=rocky2015][ @Mad Scientist Thank you! The DNA200 is a great board, it absolutely gives us a lot of motivation to design and build, and we are eager to build a solid and reliable mod with it, at the same time maintain the asthestic apeal which we always strive for. The Esquare dna40 was a great success, and we have constantly been asked by customers to build with the dna200 based on the same formfactor and design concept since the day we released the Esquare, now it's about coming to real life. We have been testing prototypes and revising design details lately, final production will kick off in a week's time. The estimated shipping date for first batch is around 10th September. Most of our Esquare retailers will carry those as well. You may also follow our FB page for updates and retailer list. Stay tuned! https://www.facebook.com/LostVapeLtd Thank you! Rocky
Hi Mad Scientist,
Yes, wetvapes, vapeNW, vape95 will have them in stock latest by Monday.Lost Vape Efusion DNA200 Official Reseller List (more to come):
USA:
http://www.vaporshark.com
http://covalvapes.com
https://www.wetvapes.com
http://www.vape94.com
http://vapenw.com/
http://www.vapegenie.com/
http://www.510distro.com/
http://www.vodistribution.net/
http://Eciggity.com/
http://www.vapordna.com
http://www.vaporider.net/
https://www.unishowinc.com/
http://www.evcigarettes.com/
http://www.fatboyvapors.com/
http://www.ecigdo.com/
http://ecigandvapewholesale.com/
http://www.smoque.net[/QUOTE] Thanks Rocky. It's going in the cart!UK:
http://www.vapegeek.co.uk
http://www.greyhaze.co.uk
http://www.evolutionvaping.co.uk/
http://www.ecigone.co.uk/France:
Sarl lacig-arrete 0627818009( wholesale number )
http://www.vapstor.fr/Austria:
http://www.planetofthevapes.at/Sweden:
http://www.esmokes.se/Australia:
http://houseofvape.com.au
http://vapoureyes.com.au
http://thevapercaper.com.au/Malaysia:
http://www.facebook.com/vapesignature
http://www.stwinter.com
https://www.facebook.com/Vapetrons-425915367566417/â¦
https://www.facebook.com/Orange-VaporStore-1593734457545082/South Africa:
http://www.sirvape.co.zaPhilipines:
http://www.planetvape.com.phNetherlands:
http://www.E-work.nlSpain:
http://masquevapor.com/ -
lewisss said:
it?
This all there is to it. Simply wire your power source to the B +/- pads. Be sure to go into escribe and set your boards to use a Power Supply instead of a battery. Balance taps remain unwired.
Don't forget to use an appropriate gauge wire for the length of lead you plan to have![/QUOTE] Can I ask what power supply you have in there? Is it 150A output? Is it a switching or linear psu? [/QUOTE] It's definitely switching. A linear 200A supply would look something like this (weight 238 lb.). 150A linear would be pretty close in size/weight. Might be fun and very different to make a vape project with that lol. It would definitely be unique. -
The mod makers or their vendors could set up the profiles for a variety of wires. This, in addition to actually setting up the case thermal parameters and setting the battery Wh capacity before shipping would be a simple value add which might better distinguish one mod or even one mod vendor from another. Anyway, it's so easy to set a profile for any wire type getting a csv from Steam Engine that it almost doesn't really matter except for someone opening up their vape mail and using it for the first day or two. I hate to say "I would" when I'm not a mod vendor and can't necessarily appreciate their priorities but I will anyway -- I would set up several of the profiles and screens for commonly used wire types to make what I sell stand out from the crowd right out of the box.
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I have several lab quality Tektronix 'scopes with both single ended and differential front end amps. Input impedances from 50 ohm to virtually infinite. Bandwidths from "DC to daylight." If someone wants to send me some wire and list whatever tests you want done on DNA200, I'd be willing to do them.mojodiscontinuity said:None that I'm aware of.
Still, the Steam Engine TFR for 304 Stainless Steel has been working beautifully for the crown SS coils in the DNA200 TC Mode.
I'm not sure were the previous poster got the information about "Nickel Legs" in the crown coils (a link to the source info would be nice), but from the coil tear downs I have seen thus far on YouTube, they seem to be made of one single material.
EDIT: There actually is a link posted by VapingBad with more info in the UK Vapers Forum. I'll repost it here for convenience:
http://ukvapers.org/Thread-New-DNA200-mod?pid=1400866#pid1400866
Also, if I come across a YouTube vaper that runs an actual oscilloscope test on the DNA200 using SS_304 such as pbusardo or DJLSB Vapes, I'll post the video here. -
The higher the actual static resistance (aside from the dynamic resistance of the coil), the hotter the resulting vape (unless the static resistance is compensated for in the "mod resistance"). A relatively high resistance connection when cold (like ten mOhm or so or even less) would result in a noticeably hotter vape. Firing the mod at high wattage can sometimes sort of "blast" through some minor oxidation at a connection point. The vape will stay hot until the atty cools and the mod does its refinement thing to get an accurate cold resistance. A vape too cold generally means the dynamic resistance is increasing for reasons other than increase of the actual average temp of the coil wire. A loose or intermittent connection affected by heat (such as expansion of the parts around an "iffy" connection or a contact coil that has a shorted loop which expands to no longer short as it heats up) can cause that. Similarly, sometimes blasting an intermittent connection with power will "fix it." In either case, ideally find out where the issue is and fix that.dwcraig1 said:I've been thinking about this for awhile. Not to suggest that too light of gauge wire was used here on the output but I'd like to know if doing so would fool the board into thinking the coil was hotter than it actually is. My thoughts in this case go towards the 510's solder joints, both on the board and on the socket. If one of the joints were faulty but still good enough to read the cold ohms correctly(no load) would this be the result?
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For those demanding answers, Evolv is standing behind their product. Read the linked post. https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/68029-topic/?do=findComment&comment=912007 I haven't built many yet but have had zero issues with the two I've built so far. I don't use any special technique but I do use the ordinary amount of care I would use with any sophisticated electronic device.
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I took the OP to mean a desire to control all functions including firing through a uP. I want a rotary encoder for temp setting as a first cut. Using a chip without USB interface and host stack means just pretending to be the buttons to the DNA200 switch header. Since that just seems really klugey the more I think about it, I started looking at the PIC 24FJ128. Ideally evolv would open source at least some of the software (like the UI hint hint) to link to a protected library but I won't hold my breath -- although that will likely happen before the whiteout open source is ever released lol.blueridgedog said:What would be the real world outcome of this pursuit? What conditions would prevent the mod from firing where it currently would in an undesired way? Currently I can either lock the device or remove the atomizer to achieve a no fire state.
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This is why I admit I'm an evolv fanboy lol.Nick said:Put in a ticket, we will take care of you! We've all destroyed our fair share of boards, myself included.
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When you have settled on a temp "sweet spot" for your best flavor, what does device manager tell you about ever getting there as you reduce power? I guess I'm not getting what you're saying unless you mean you perceive best flavor at every temp under a certain limit? Or you get better flavor if it takes a few seconds to finally reach the sweet spot temp? There's still a resulting temp from every power setting -- you're just reducing power to which has the necessary effect of reducing temp, no?VapingBad said:I look at it the other way that the temp is only a max limit and the wattage is the power setting, you still get the benefit of temp limiting in the nice clean flavour and pre-heat plus you can turn it up and down as the mood suits. For me the temp is a flavour adjustment and never want to go above the sweet spot for my liquid, where as I can go up and down on power depending on mood and build anything from 15 - 120 W keep in the flavour just so. For me it is more about flavour than clouds, but what ever keeps you off the stinkies.
I am surprised that there is not a request for changing the temp step as I have both my DNA200s set at odd numbers via Escribe and would have thought that would go hand in hand with this feature request. -
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If I understand how the fire button works correctly, you can use an NPN transistor (2N3904 is fine). With base at or below emitter potential (less than voltage drop of base-emitter junction), unbiased, no current flow. Base forward biased (3.3V is plenty), current flow. Fire terminals would be +12 side to collector as shown and the other side replaces where ground is shown to the emitter resistor. CPU output pin to base resistor (your CPU output pin is simulated by the 0 and 3.3V sources in the screen grabs). Hopefully the simulation makes sense to you. Forward bias current through base of transistor (base emitter junction) and it conducts. Zero bias current, it doesn't conduct. Classic emitter follower. You may have to experiment with what the DNA wants to see at the other side of the fire button. Another approach would be classic open collector / common emitter configuration. See the third simulation screen grab. Some CPUs have at least a few open collector outputs. If yours does, you don't even need a transistor, just a current limiting resistor. [/QUOTE]fostac said:[QUOTE=Mad Scientist][QUOTE=fostac]Still having trouble reliably triggering the fire action. I'm using a 2N3906 PNP transistor driven by a ~3.3v signal. I either burn out the transistor or I'm unable to close the switch so it just continuously fires. I've tried pulling a 2N3904 NPN, different arrangements of pull-down or pull-up resistors and I'm still lost.
A couple things I've learned though:
There is a 1k resistance between ground and the Fire - header.
My multimeter is telling me 0.5ma is running across the headers, but that's way too low, so I'm not sure what the actual value is.
Any help or clarification on John's solution from this thread would be amazing.
This worked perfectly! I got caught up over thinking it after reading that other thread where he settled on using a relay.
Thanks again Mad Scientist
[/QUOTE]
Awesome, great news! Can you post the schematic of what you settled on? I'm curious as to whether the emitter follower configuration allows enough current to flow to fire the DNA 200. Or did you go with common emitter? Something else entirely?
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Nice. Very well done. Where did you get the box? It looks to be exactly the perfect size for a "snug" fit of everything.David247 said:Here's my latest mod Regards David
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What type of soldering iron and ESD protection do the modders use when building? The board seems fairly robust but there are limits to everything. I have a soldering station in my junk pile (very old Elenco) that had sufficient induced voltage at the tip that I could feel it when I touched it with solder to tin it. In the junk pile. Better to trash an old soldering station than a pile of new parts. Also, there are enough MOS parts on the board that one good static hit to the bare board and they're toast. It's far from a mech-box type build and can't be treated as one when handling the bare board.
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I'm starting to wonder how much it really matters to the performance of the device as well as how holding the mod in my body temp hand while using it might skew the results. The results are interesting but I wouldn't try to get too exact about it all lol.
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What is the device?
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dwcraig1 said:
[QUOTE=dwcraig1]Thermal results for my Hotcig DX200
![[image]](https://scontent.fsan1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t1.0-9/12118808_1083625534995003_392430589440959699_n.jpg?oh=d2b63004969795bfc4cf5e9cdbc1795d&oe=56A26E6F)
I posted this in another forum that sells these and got this response:
"...if one is calculating the average temperature of 10 objects in a room, and nine of them are between 20 and 25 degrees Celsius, but the tenth is an oven at 175 °C, themedian of the data will be comprised between 20 and 25 °C but the meantemperature will be between 35.5 and 40 °C. In this case, the median better reflects the temperature of a randomly sampled object than the mean; naively interpreting the mean as "a typical sample", equivalent to the median, is incorrect."
Just felt like I had to share that with you. Anyway, your DX200 Case Analyzer Resultsare totally incoherent/inconsistent and out of a proper context to even take them into account by anyone here, or for any point you may had wanted to make with'em."(end of qoute)
Does anyone see something "wrong" with these figures?
I must say though that most of the folks in that forum are either anti Evolv or have no idea what it is.[/QUOTE] I can only guess that the person who posted that response doesn't understand what the results are used for. Just guessing but it seems that person wants to estimate the temp of the board from the results, which isn't what it's for. It's not thermal management so the parts don't fry -- it's so the board can reasonably accurately estimate room temp from the inside the device temp. The board knows how much heat it has generated and needs to know how much of that heat is dissipated in a unit of time out of the device as a whole. Each device design will be different so evolv has a clever way to accurately estimate room temp from temp inside the device once the DNA 200 has the numbers as you posted.
510 adapter for testing use
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