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BillW50

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Posts posted by BillW50

  1. 2 minutes ago, Razanpradana97 said:

    Yep, it's still looping from 8.5 to 1 watt, and then the text like in the photo, come looping again until my device stuck and i can't press anything.

    no leaks inside the body and the board, already check it.

    i cant start device monitor because i dont have usb dongle

    Oh no USB cable? Dang! As @Wayneo had mentioned, open EScribe's Device Manager and at the bottom it will tell you if any keys are pressed. There shouldn't be if you are not pressing them. But that is out for now without a cable.

  2. You may not find a DNA200 board or even if you do, the price won't be much different than a DNA250 anyway. And a DNA250 is really an updated DNA200. So if you have a choice, I'd go with the DNA250.

    The 510? Not only is it a 510, but a squonk 510 at that. Boy, that is a tough one.

  3. Well it does sound like it is the fire switch right on the board. They can be disassembled and cleaned right on the board.

    See all of those buttons bottom right in EScribe's Device Manager? Click on the one just left of the top Puff one. There you can fire without using the board button. Does this work perfectly?

  4. 5 hours ago, Bricker89 said:

    YES, yes I do find that odd, but also, you spent $9,200 on DNA MODs but can only use 1 at a time and they have low/difficult resale is also odd. 

    you probably don't usb charge them though, maybe it's that but that's why I bought DNAs to safely usb when there's more than 1 battery. 

    I used only UL branded quality usb adapter and cables , we went through all these possibilities all the other threads I made and trying to reset fix with escribe but there's no clear solution, could be that fuse.

    Oh if I wanted to sell my DNA mods, I don't think I'll have a problem at all. I get ask all of the time if I want to sell this one or that. DNA mods in fair shape don't lose value overtime.

    And some DNA mods I do charge them by USB. I generally use a XTAR 6 port 12A or a floor standing OttLiter LED lamp with a 2.1A USB port. Also I have been using those magnetic USB connectors for the past few years which are easy to connect and disconnect on the fly.

    Obviously something is different on your end and not others. Some people can't wear watches either without them screwing up. My brother-in-law can't. He isn't alone either, a small percentage of the population can't either. I don't even want to guess why that is.

  5. No your English is fine Magigamix. That is weird it didn't work for you. I tried it on a DNA75C and a DNA250C with firmware SP33 with Frank's Theme and it worked fine. Maybe peek to see how Frank did his. I just unscrewed the atty enough to cause resistance problems to have it to kick out of TC.

    https://forum.evolvapor.com/files/file/109-%E2%9C%AA-hyperion-odin-mini-paranormal-and-others-replay-ready-english-italian-%E2%9C%AA/

    • Like 1
  6. Telling us who doesn't work for Evolv does nothing. Submit a ticket. Linking to your post here is fine.

    https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=1

    > The function that sets the "Temp Sensing Detect" value only runs the first time the board is fired...

    What I do is to switch to another Profile and switch back after you fixed the reason it kicked out in the first place. I dunno, it doesn't seem like a big deal to me.

  7. It doesn't make any sense to have a slider in EScribe when all you can have is full brightness or off. Why not replace the slider with a switch instead? And why not have it adjustable like expected? This way it has a cheap Chinese engineered feel to it.

    I also tried SP3 (an older firmware version) to see if that one does the same full brightness or off and it does.

    • Like 2
  8. Everything between the DNA75C and the DNA100C is a direct fit, except for the USB-C port is lower than the micro USB on the DNA75C. So that could be problematic.

    Just curious, why don't you use your Hyperion anymore? Btw, do you need instructions on taking the Hyperion apart? Here they are:

    The front panel has a seam at the edges which is glued. Heat from a hair dryer/heat gun will soften the glue so you can pop it out.

  9. There is a guy in a Facebook group that converts them over to DNA60. So it shouldn't be that hard.

    They also have the Abyss Stormtrooper DNA60 too. Have you seen those? Those are made from white Delrin instead of SS. And they also come with the SbS kit with larger battery caps.

    • Like 1
  10. Besides EScribe's Device Monitor that Wayneo mentioned, there is also ECigStats. Basically you create a user and password for your ECigStats account. Then you can link your DNA mods to this account. And all of those puffs you see in the puff info, can now be seen in ECigStats with values. Here is one screen shot.

    2020-11-25_115356.png.56bd952fafa7d3049a1a5528a05826ad.png

     

    • Like 1
  11. Absolutely! EScribe's Atomizer Analyzer will give you live resistance reading. And if you purposely short the 510 connector, it will tell you the internal resistance of the mod itself. And you can save this value in the Mod -> Electrical tabs in the Manufacture Interface (Options -> User Interface). And the mod will ignore this resistance in the future when you upload setting to the device.

    Reading 0.18Ω higher is quite high. But the problem is between the board output and the 510 connection.

    • Like 1
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