BillW50
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Posts posted by BillW50
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5 minutes ago, Andruala said:
Btw @BillW50, first time i shorted the billetbox with an audio copper wire, and it showed ~0.058 ohms, but then someone told me to get something better to short it and i got the copper pipe.
That is what that BB 510 uses, plus the copper calibration plug made of something like 99.7% pure copper.
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Well @Andruala those Vandy Vape Vessel tanks are slightly shorter than a boro. So I was surprised it even made a connection in the Supbox at all actually. Because it is barely touching and the pin which is spring loaded and not even pressing down on it. Both the SXK-BB and the Supbox had the internal resistance set at 0Ω. I just checked the internal resistance of that SXK-BB by shorting it with a SS coiling rod and it shows .028Ω. Not the most accurate way to test it and the threads could use some cleaning. I also have a BB 510 adapter and a copper plug which would be much better way in my closet that I ain't going to dig out right now. But no, not all devices are .06Ω. Some are more like in the .004Ω range. But I've never seen a BB read that low. As aluminum isn't such a great ground either. The original BB has the same thing, so it isn't just SXK.
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Well the data sheet shows aluminum is about 70% higher in resistance than copper.
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/copper-aluminum-conductor-resistance-d_1877.html
And why would you expect that without mod resistance set, it should read a coil just with 0.006 ohms higher? And how do you know the Vandy Vape is reading right? Did you check it against an ISO17025 accredited calibration? And what value is the Vandy Vape using for internal resistance? You don't know, do you?
I got one Vandy Vape right here with a VCC30 Kanthal mesh. They say it is .30Ω. The Vandy Vape says it is .28Ω. Stick it in a SXK-BB and it says .329Ω. Stick it in a SXK Supbox DNA60 and it reads .367Ω. Although the Supbox is using SS for ground I think. So which one is reading accurate? We don't know until we check it against ISO standards, now do we? But I also have another Vandy Vape and that one also reads lower than I think it should too. I got a third Vandy Vape yet out in the mailbox right now that I'll get in the morning. I bet that one reads low too.
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The Pulse AIO uses copper to make the ground connection. While the Billet Box uses the aluminum box for ground. And aluminum is about 70% higher in resistance than copper. You can remove the negative battery clip (two screws) and try to clean up the connections, but I would think most of the resistance is from the aluminum box itself.
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Try this. Take the batteries out and then connect to the USB. If it now connects, good. Now put the batteries back in while the USB is still connected. Now it should be fine.
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The board is only capable of 2A max. The 4 cells @ 2A will only charge each cell @ 500ma (0.5A). So 2A is fine.
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The proper way to charge lithium batteries to to charge say 3.7v lithiums to 4.20v @ 100ma (some use 50ma) and then cutoff when current drops less than this. The current will drop lower and lower as it gets closer to 4.20v in a charger. Once the charging stops, the battery will always drop a few percent. If you don't stop charging at 100ma (50ma) once the battery level reaches 4.20v, you are overcharging and it will quickly shorten the life of the cell. If you want to double the life of the cell, you should stop charging 3.7v lithium cells at 4.10v @ 100ma. You can change charging to stop at 4.10v with DNA200, 250, and 250C boards with EScribe (maximum recharges). I wish this option was available with their other boards. Maybe they can't because of the chips they are using or something.
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Time for an Evolv ticket.
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28 minutes ago, Wayneo said:
@BillW50 Loctite on the threads <- Don't do that. It can throw off your ohm readings. I personally encountered that AND here's a post from an Evolv employee saying the same
ThatGuySwain - https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/69140-paranormal-75c-resistance-too-high-fix/
Yes I figured as much. That is why you move the ground wire and solder directly to the 510 base itself.
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I never had a problem with my Paranormal mods either. Although others have had door problems. And some have reported if the 510 is too long of your atty, it pushes down on the 510 pin too far and it touches on the positive side on one of the battery connections. Thus sending over 6 volts to your coil until you unscrew your atty. It could damage the DNA250C board too. Although I haven't heard of any blown boards. Luckily the Odin mods are easy to take apart and easy enough to put Loctite on the threads and the Odin should outlive many of us.
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Yeah I have 5 Odin DNA250C and 5 Odin DNA75C. None of them have experienced that problem yet.
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Ah yes, I saw those two videos myself. None of my 5 have suffered from that problem yet.
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Have you tried dubious or unlikely Replay options yet?
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Either submit a ticket at:
https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=1
Or tell us what is going on.
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An authentic Billet Box from Billet Box Vapor? The ones that cost $250+? The ones without an USB port?
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Is it fine if you take a second puff right after the first one? Or is the delay still there?
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If you are talking about the non-color board, it never has been in the theme, but here. Both examples are from EScribe SP30.3.
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It's still in mine.
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I really like the wheel on my four Top Gears. It's unique and the only DNA mod besides the Darwin that has a wheel. Plus I can navigate very quickly through the menus.
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Turn the wheel and see if it starts to behave. I never taken one apart, but it looks easy enough. The down button doesn't seem sticky or anything right?
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Do you think juice got inside of the mod? Most people say no, but when you take them apart, it is often clear that juice got in.
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Umm @krmatw, the pixel count is really small on the small screen. Not a lot you can program to make it easier to read. The only thing to really make it better is a higher pixel screen. But everyone who wants it on their small screen DNA60 would have to replace their screens (if they even exist) with a firmware update. Are you willing to replace your screen? And how many others would? Like maybe just 6 people? That would be very costly for Evolv. Maybe it would cost Evolv like 5 grand extra for each of you for developing the firmware.
Second question is that I can't think of a single DNA60 mod sold with a small screen. Can you think of any? The only use I could think of for DNA60 small screen is to replace a DNA40 small screen mod with a DNA60. Is this what you have? I have three DNA40 small screen mods myself that I purchased three DNA60 small screen boards for. I haven't replaced any of them yet, but it is on my to do list. But they are a very low priority for me, so maybe never. I just don't use them enough to make it worthwhile.
So what are your thoughts and ideas?
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Sxk billet box dna60 wrong ohm reading?
in General Discussion
Posted
Careful, I wouldn't tighten too hard on those aluminum threads.