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BillW50

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Posts posted by BillW50

  1. Well if you increase power, you increase voltage, resistance (with TC material), and temperature too, so they all go hand in hand. When you decrease power, you decrease voltage, resistance, and temperature. So when you increase warmth, you are warming the coil faster. Of course, once you hit the max temperature setting, it isn't allowed to go higher and power will drop to keep the temperature from going higher.

    And you can't say like one bump up in Warmth is 10 watts more power. Nor can you say it is 10° warmer. As it isn't calculated that way. As it is based on a percentage of the power setting looking at the Device Manager. There could be other factors in play in the algorithm. As I don't have the source code and I am sure it is a trade secret anyway. But you can see the effects in the graph. And that is what is important. ;)

  2. The power and temperature didn't change? What were you changing? Warmth? It only has an effect when playing within Replay, just like @Wayneo said. I figured I am going to have to do it for you. Here is Warmth set in the middle, then full, and then off.

     

    658061030_ReplayWarmth(medfulloff).thumb.jpg.104400fc7b732d0bf4f105a891ec152d.jpg

     

    Maybe you don't see a difference, but I sure do. It gives it a boost in power in the beginning the puff. The higher the warmth, the higher it applies more power. When off, power is flat without any extra power at the beginning of the puff.

    • Like 1
  3. 3 hours ago, Marco234 said:

    i read this but i am not sure what warmth actually modifies,,,,watts or temp? and when it goes up by 1 increment is it going up by one degree or watts. Thats all im trying ta ask mahn

    For example, using Frank's Theme under TC (basically the same with EScribe). You can select either Power Preheat or Temperature Preheat. And with Temperature Preheat you also select temperature and power levels. Using Power Preheat, you can set power and punch. As @Wayneo had mentioned, Warmth is available only with Replay.

    Every bump up with punch doesn't bump it up by 1°. It doesn't work that way. You're adjusting power, not temperature.

  4. No, it doesn't do it by one degree. Best thing is to use EScribe's Device Manager and watch the effects of the power and temperature curves. Or you can just adjust it while you vape and set it where you like it the best.

    Cold coil temperature is when the coil is at room temperature. If you just vaped from the coil, it will take sometime for the coil to cool down to room temperature. Depending on the mass of the coil and the atty, it could take a few minutes or up to hours.

  5. On 10/30/2022 at 12:46 AM, Marco234 said:

    hmm it does move a little while firing i just noticed this shit too wow

    But yea should i up the punch or boost up the preheat wattage at all?

    It is up to you. Just adjust it to the type of vape you want.

    On 10/30/2022 at 1:46 AM, Marco234 said:

    also what is warmth on the mod mean....does it have to do with watts or..

    It's just adjusting more or less preheat.

    On 10/30/2022 at 2:01 AM, Marco234 said:

    also what is atomizer > coil > cold temperature 

    What is the point of that ?

    Still a novice greatly

    The board needs to know what the coil resistance is at room temperature. This and what material the coil is made from to calibrate the temperature readout and output.

  6. 30 minutes ago, Marco234 said:

    I see i have a ss316 .3ohm coil....so like what would be a good temperature to stop at ? because i am up at like 450 and im getting weak ass hits with live wattage level being at 15w almost when i set it to like 40. this is not for preheat btw.....


    also is preheat (wattage or temp) basically the same as the punch/boost feature?

    15 watts sounds really weak to me with a 0.3Ω SS316L coil (unless the wire is really thin). If you switch to power/wattage mode, what wattage does it seem to vape well at?

    Second question, yes!

  7. To start with, just set the temperature at the limit you don't want to go passed. And then set the wattage like you normally would use with power mode. Basically you are done with the basics.

    Now for more advanced features like preheat, well if you fire and it takes a second or more for decent vapor and flavor to come out. That means your coil/mesh has a lot of mass. And you can shorten the warm up time by using preheat. You can do so by using either wattage or temperature preheat. Or some might want a hotter vape at the beginning of the vape and then taper cooler for the rest of the puff. Preheat is good for this too.

    One con of using preheat is if you chain vape. Sure you can tweak it for the first puff or two, but it will likely get too hot for more repeated vapes (unless it is stopped by the temperature limit). But this would be solved with Replay. As you pick the puff you liked and save it. Now all further puffs will be the same. Regardless of chain vaping or not.

  8. Ah! Yes cell 1 is low while cells 2 and 3 are fully charged. It's in balance charging mode which it is only charging at 17mA. It will take days for it to bring up cell 1 to full charge. Once they are all balanced, this problem will disappear. It would be far faster right now to charge cell 1 in a single cell charger. Or you can wait until the DNA250C board finally balances them. You can still vape it while it is charging.

    • Like 2
  9. You only need to post once. As right now you have three posts the same. And every time you fire the mod, the charge current drops back to 0 amps. And you are probably checking by pressing the fire button to check the screen's diagnostics. If the screen goes dark, use up, down, or select buttons instead. These buttons will light up the screen again at least an hour from the last fire button press. And you will see the charging start increasing up to the maximum.

  10. 35 minutes ago, MVP said:

    I knew they didn't SOLD it, but knew they did it (how to measure internal resistance in someway different mode but in a reliable way?). Anyway, copper tool or not, they should give an answer or, simply, it is not worth to purchase any DNA100C-based device, unless the customer is the classic "blind" vaper who buys compulsively just to show others he/she owns a DNA but uses it in VW mode only...

    The DNA100C board is the only DNA board that won't read anything below 0.10Ω.

  11. Some people just put the wires through the holes without soldering. As long as it is making a connection and you don't bump it, should be ok. I wouldn't try updating the firmware though. One slight intermittent connection might brick the board. But other things besides uploading settings should be fine.

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