BillW50

That Bogan theme is drop dead ugly on those Stubby DNA60C. That is the first thing I changed on my four of them.

It works like this @Lennox. Even if you use a 100A charger, it still will only draw 2A. You can use less than a 2A charger too. It will only draw what it is capable of supplying if less than 2A. It will take longer to charge of course.

Oh no! What happened to your Riva DNA250C? Those are very nice mods. Oh Evolv is still alive and well. Big mods seemed to have cooled down at the moment. And smaller mods especially boro style mods are all of the rage right now. And Evolv has two new boards, the DNA60C and the DNA80C that are popular for these smaller mods.

Whoa! When you short the output, it reads zero ohms? If so, that is what it should be. But if you fire it (I would set it to 1 watt before firing), it states no atomizer? Does it still show zero ohms while firing? The no atomizer message should pop up if the resistance is too high. And zero ohms is definitely not too high. Even a $5 multimeter would serve very useful for this purpose.

Anybody ever try creating a portable version of EScribe? This would allow one to run EScribe on any PC without installing. Especially handy if it isn't your PC.

Is this it? This is probably Stepladder theme before they added all of the extras. This one only has Replay added. DJLsb Theme with Replay.ecigtheme

Yes! And my four DNA60C are doing just fine. And so are my DNA80C for that matter.

And what board are you talking about? I bought over 100 DNA mods. I listed over 90 of them in this forum alone. And out of over 100, three boards had the battery management chip fail. I have another one the screen is getting very dim. And that is it in the past 10 years. Sounds like Evolv are doing a very fine job to me.

How many do you have? I have four of them. Two Stubby DNA60C and two Rift DNA60C. All four are doing fine so far. Where are you getting the replacement screens from? Evolv?

Does the battery drain without using the device? Because the San's positive battery post is really close to ground (see picture). They say e-liquid isn't conductive. But VG and PG absorbs moisture and then it becomes conductive. And if e-liquid was there, it would likely drain the battery.

Careful! I wouldn't pop that window out on the Sans. I know what @dwcraig1 sees and Evolv's example probably the board does come out from the window side. But the San's window is smaller and is glued in (and juice proof) and it is framed unlike Evolv's. And there is no way the board can be removed through that opening even if the window was removed. I would not mess with that window on the San. It looks like everything comes out through the other side. On the bottom of the San, see that rectangle on the bottom (picture below)? It looks like there is a screw under it that connects the positive battery connection to the board through that lower wire (picture above). I would not mess with this and find out if you could exchange it at the place you got it. Telling them it has poor battery connections. If that fails, try Evolv by opening up a ticket. If you are stuck fixing it yourself. The ground screws looks like they are on the other side under the panel. If the ground screws doesn't solve it, then it is likely that positive battery connection under that rectangle on the bottom. I can't tell if it is a sticker or a plate. I think it is a plate and a hair dryer should soften the glue to lift it off (hopefully). EDIT: That is a Vaperz Cloud logo on the window.

SAN DNA80C AIO #108 Firmware SP78 BATT#1 RPY 20w 768 puffs 3.46v 3ml BATT#2 PWR 18w 949 puffs 3.39v 3ml SAN DNA80C AIO #108 Firmware SP78 BATT#1 PWR 35w 548 puffs 3.45v 4ml BATT#2 PWR 40w 578 puffs 3.39v 4ml I used Samsung 25R cells for all of my tests. I also tried to get that coil higher in wattage, but at 45 watts it was dry hitting too much. Vandy Vape VVC-15 (SS316L) are rated for 35-60w. Hopefully I'll get a chance this weekend to do a build that will be able to handle 60 watts. Anyways I am not seeing any short battery life using a San DNA80C. It looks respectable to me. The battery level bar does drop too fast and it seems to show empty when you have about 40% capacity left. That might be by design, I dunno. And when the battery is really empty and the weak battery shows up on the screen, It keeps firing if you want. But you can tell the wattage is dropping.

That jumping up and down in white is the battery voltage while not firing? If so, that shouldn't be.

Ok. I'll crank it up and test again. Yes, even 949 puffs from 3ml in one example above. The secret is to under wattage high wattage coils and builds. I don't think you can do it overnight and be satisfied. You got to inch downwards overtime I believe. 1653 puffs with 50ml of juice used? That is 33 puffs per ml. It's possible. The lowest I ever got was 20 puffs per ml with a 28mm RDA. Professional cloud chasers are vaping even much lower. Although 33 puffs on a boro? Yeah I don't think so. Don't worry you are not going nuts. For at least 9 years now (every DNA device with a puff counter) doesn't count every puff under removing battery conditions (charging batteries in the mod works fine). I really need to talk to John & Steve about this. But I might not be able to talk about it after I do. Check the puff count after you replaced the battery and check it again before swapping batteries and that is the actual count. Don't trust the count after you replace the battery as the count is likely lower than before you swapped batteries.

@EagleRock, @intel, and @Dieseljesus, are you all using boost? As that will drain the battery faster. The Stubby for example doesn't sport boost. I didn't use boost for my tests. I should add the coil read 0.16Ω on the SAN and 0.17Ω on the Stubby.

SAN DNA80C AIO #108 Firmware SP78 BATT#1 RPY 20w 768 puffs 3.46v 3ml BATT#2 PWR 18w 949 puffs 3.39v 3ml Stubby Xray AIO #14138 BATT#1 PWR 18w 847 puffs 3.19v 4ml BATT#2 PWR 18w 858 puffs 3.33v 3.5ml I'm not seeing any real difference in battery longevity. I remember @EagleRock was using 30w and @intel was using 35w. So what wattage are you using @Dieseljesus? I could do it again at higher wattages. The SAN DNA80C would report weak battery at the tail end. The Stubby would dial back the wattage and then refused to fire claiming weak battery at the tail end. Any questions of my results, just ask.

Hi @Dieseljesus and @EagleRock. OK I'll take a DNA80C to the work bench and do some testing. I'll report back in about 2 days.

Typical of a cell with hundreds of recharges or are older than 5 years old. Think of it, a typical cell is rated for 250 to 500 recharges. And if you recharge a cell everyday, in 6 months time that is already at 180 recharges. Some battery rechargers can report accurate cell capacity. It will show the battery has lost 20% or more of its capacity in this state. Some other chargers can read the internal battery resistance. And they will increase as they age and gets used.

Well the next step is to contact the place of purchase, unfortunately.

It should connect to EScribe by the board alone without being installed in the Stubby too. There are four wires between the Stubby board to the DNA60 board that controls data. And something is wrong there if EScribe still can't connect by the board alone. I have two of those boards and mine hasn't been unboxed yet. But Wayneo is right, the place you got it at is the place to go. Although Evolv by filing with the HELP DESK is another option to try if the first option fails. I think I would check those wires first. If ok, maybe they wired them to the wrong place, like getting two wires reversed.

Looks like about 92 watts hitting 0.225Ω. That means the output is 4.55v @ 20.22A using ohms law. And the board is drawing more than 20A from the battery. Since the board is also boosting the voltage. 92w / 3.6v = 25.56A from the battery. That is a lot of current the board has to deal with. That alone is going to cause the board to heat up. And most mod batteries will also heat up (>80°C) drawing 25A from them for minutes at a time as well. And the average battery will run from full to empty in about 8 minutes at that rate. That is a lot of heat in an enclosed tight space found in mods. Sure I have plenty of DNA100C mods too. And I haven't seen one board hit higher than 50°C yet. But I haven't used one at 92 watts firing for minutes at a time either. The mod is probably going to need some vents (or bigger ones) at least if not more at that extreme.

Yes for the neg side of the select, up, and down share the same pin 6 on the board.

One connection to the switch is neg or ground (same thing). The pos switch connection is normally not ground unless the button is pressed. Thus if pressed, the pos becomes the same potential as ground. Now the chip sees the button is pressed. Virtually all digital switches work this way including keyboards.

I understand what you mean @lazarev. The problem is the board can't get enough power. Likely causes are battery wiring, battery contacts, or the batteries. You say you are using Sony and others. Some Sony batteries are designed for flashlights (torches) and not suitable for vaping. So what type are these batteries? What others are going to want you to do is to use EScribe's Device Manager and take a screen shot of the battery voltage while firing. All it is going to likely show is the battery voltage drops like a rock when you fire the mod. And speaking about the DNA60. What model is this mod? As that might clue us in on what the likely cause is.

Absolutely!