LeeWB3

Any other changes?

The description says if there is new firmware for your model. If new firmware is not included in the SP for your model then it'll just install the lastest version of Escribe with whatever bugs have now been fixed (or introduced 😊). You should be able to run 15.2 on the 250C. I do.

Definitely "perfect ohm load". At +/-0.1 ohms a different but perfectly adequate 510 should probably read the same. At +/-0.01 you'd probably have to calibrate to be certain differences in spring tension, etc. don't throw it off. At +/-0.001 there may even be differences based on exactly how it was soldiered. At +/-0.0001, whether you had your cell phone in the room or not might make a difference. Personally, I calibrate every new mod to a known reference standard (that was, in turn, calibrated to the 0.001 level). I feel anything +/-0.003 or better is as good as I'm going to get.

Replay really appears to be more or less TC where they quit trying to calculate a temperature from the ohm readings and simply directly control to a series of ohms you said you liked. That makes wire settings, calibrations, etc., much, much less important. ("Warmth" settings not withstanding). On any TC build and, by association, any build where you're monitoring and controlling to match a desired curve of ohm readings a fluctuation of any real magnitude not due to changes in coil temperature will keep it from working well. For TC I like to see stuff stable to +/-0.01 at worst and generally shoot for less than +/-0.003. Spring loaded 510 screw connectors in the atty, for instance, often cause problems. If your coil and/or atty is not stable to the 0.01 level while sitting in a stable temp environment you're not going to find it works well. If you're seeing the type fluctuations you describe it's clearly not going to work at all. The final piece is whether the ohms change consistently as the temperature of the coil changes. There are situations where something like "316L" pre-made coils actually have leads of a different material and that may make it function inconistantly. BTW, I have replay set to watts rather than a specific wire type and it works just fine on my staggered fused SS316 coils and simple or twisted Ti coils. (Note, if you sit there and run atomizer analyzer it would be expected that the ohm readings would slowly go up as the power from testing the ohm reading slowly heats the coil. The 250C and 75C aren't as bad as prior generations but still may see some increase. When I say stable I'm talking about a quick "measure", wait a minute or two and then do another quick "measure".)

On the settings for the replay feature, what does the warmth setting do? Is it documented somewhere?

Nice setup! Not having this, I typically buy premade claptons from a large supplier to achieve more consistency. I AM able to be pretty consistent with simple twisted wire so I use a lot of that.

These were done for the DNA 250/200/166/133/75 series of chips. The DNA 60 can also be done this way, but there is no thermal calibration routine available in Escribe when using a 60 so it's difficult to get that part right and not having it right will impact mod resistance measurements for TC coils. The 75C uses a VERY different algorithm to determine ohms. It was implemented so the mod didn't send a continuous signal to the coil which tends to heat up TC coils resulting in higher and higher readings as you continue to sample. I have not verified the 250C uses the same algorithm as the 75C, but it seems to. Unfortunately, that algorithm breaks down as resistance approaches 0 so a shorting pin does not give good estimates of the offset needed for the ohms in normal coils. Initial Setup: https://youtu.be/wgK3IUCjrKk Thermial Calibration: https://youtu.be/BlVWc49qbPY Mod Resistance Calibration: https://youtu.be/S8f6WtY-f70 Battery Calibration: https://youtu.be/pNsAHmZ-E0o They were created for a Facebook group devoted to technical aspects of vaping with emphasis on TC vaping on which I am one of the admins. We primarily all use Sweet Spot Vapers Ti wire on DNA boards, but all varieties are welcome. Anyone interested can PM me and I'll tell you the group name, but haven't cleared this with other Admins so won't post publicly. These are our groups general consensus on the best you can do with home tools. We strongly encourage manufacturers to AT LEAST do this, but better techniques are available if you have the budget, i.e. the testing of a range of known coils and averaging (it's expensive to have truly "known" coils).

My videos describe using a shorting pin as you are using. Unfortunately, very, very careful testing of the C series chips shows that the method Evolve uses to measure ohms is very non-linear as the reading approaches 0, i.e. the offset needed at a cold reading of <0.06 or so is not the same offset needed for cold ohm readings of actual coils between 0.15-0.80 or so. Thus a shorting pin worked reasonably well for the previous chips but generally isn't good enough to give accurate readings on the Cs. Therefore a measurement of multiple known coils across the vaping range was conducted and an average offset developed. For actual coils this method is much closer to correct. Note these tests were done with the now current firmware (4/15/18) but Evolve was changing their method during several of the previous SPs so they may change this again and change needed offsets.

This is hijacking the thread so I won't respond here again. Feel free to PM me for links to videos I've done on how to actually calibrate a DNA mod since none of the major manufacturers actually do it. I'm glad you like Lost Vapes and am glad you have had consistent responses from them. However, unless you can read coils with a reference ohm meter that can read accurately down to 0.0001 ohms there is no way you can know that they actually are calibrated correctly, only that they are calibrated well to each other. I currently have four five Lost Vapes as well. I have a Halcyon which needs an offset of 0.0095, an Effusion Duo which needs an offset of 0.010, a Therion 133 which needs an offset of 0.015, a Therion 75c which needs an offset of 0.014 and a Paranormal 250c with a needed offset of 0.0167. I also previously had an original Therion BF 75 which needed an offset of 0.008 (it fried the chip sitting on my shelf when it siphoned a complete tank into itself). With those offsets these mods match the other 35 DNA mods I own including 2 Hobo Aluminiums, a Hobo Stab and a VaporShark DNA 200 Rev 2. However, all of my Lost Vapes mods came stock with an offset of 0.004 - which is Evolve's recommended number if you don't want to bother actually doing a through calibration. It's an industry issue sometimes addressed by boutique manufacturers (e.g. my Big Apple Mods DNA75BF). The ONLY real problem with a mod having to have a reasonable offset (say up to 0.025) is if it doesn't change linearly as resistance changes - i.e. when you use TC coils that should change from, say, 0.15 to 0.25 at the temperature you want and the problem mod actually changes from 0.15 (so, a good cold read) to 0.27 at that same temp. This is most often due to weak springs in a spring loaded 510 which lose strength when heated so they don't make as good of a connection while warm. Follow my instructions above and it'll fix your concern because in my experience the Boxer is not having the weak spring issue.

OK, assuming that means 0.130 and you want it to read that coil as 0.122 (because you believe that to be correct or just because you want your mods to use the same settings if you move the atomizer around) then: 1) Open Escribe. 2) Make sure your Options are set so the User Interface shows "Manufacturer" 3) Go into the Mod Tab 4) Under that switch to the Electrical Tab 5) Add 0.008 to whatever is current in the Mod Resistance box. If it's still Evolve's default of 0.004 that would mean you're gonna set it to 0.012. (My Boxer need 0.018 to match a known standard). 6) Upload it to your unit and the Boxer should now read coils the same as your Therion BF. Note I don't have a Therion BF, but my Therion needed an offset different than Evolve's default to match up to absolutely known coils (tested with instruments with precision much better than most electricians have). NO major manufacturers seem to be calibrating their mods worth a darn so this ain't a Boxer only problem. The VaporShark DNA 200 Rev 2 and 3 and the Hobo are the only two mods that I actually trust. And those used a DNA 200 while the new C version of the chip measures ohms so differently that you can't even use those gold standards to calibrate these mods.... Evolve should really give better guidance to manufacturers....

What's your 2nd Boxer actually reading in Atomizer analyzer? If it read it at 0.125 instead of your LV's 0.122 then it would round it to the 0.13 shown on your screen shot. A simple increase in electrical offset of 0.003 would make them identical. If, OTHO, it's actually reading 0.134 you'd show the same but have to increase offset by 0.012 to match the LV. As I stated, mine needed an offset of 0.018 (total). My LV Therion needed 0.014.

After fully calibrating it my Boxer needed a 0.018 offset. After applying that I'm currently getting consistent ohm readings (+/-.002) with 6 DNA 75Cs. Since I only have one Boxer I have no way of knowing if different offsets are needed for different ones. That said, you guys are seeing enough of a difference to suggest a significant problem. Hope it's not one that develops over time since mine is currently fine.

That's unfortunate. Mine has been flawless since arriving on Tuesday. Hope for Ginger and Evolve that yours was a fluke...

In that case I retract my objection. I looked at the battery stats and assumed they must be reporting total (MaxAmps site isn't clear) because the battery size and weight just didn't seem big enough to support that much juice. 4 2800 mAh batteries IS a lot.

Mine was shipped well before the problem was brought to their attention. Must have been intermittent on the line.

Fair enough, but 2800 mAh is still tiny. A single 18650 VTC6 is 3000. (Yes, I know precisely why they are actually not directly comparable, but it's close enough to make the point). I already have plenty of DNA200 and 250s that I simply don't use because the battery is too small to leave the house with.

Mine arrived yesterday with no issues. Tried to tighten the 510 but it wouldn't tighten or loosen - must be on there good. I did change the default 0.004 to 0.010 for mod resistance to match my well calibrated DNA75Cs, but I've only used the Replay feature with SS coils so far and from what I can tell of the technology the cold resistance being off a bit shouldn't matter much (it will matter if/when I want to use it in normal TC mode).

Not sure I see the point of a 400W mod with 2800mah. It'd be dead in 2 minutes of active vaping.

That's where I ordered a Paranormal. Cleared customs on Monday and should be here in a day or two. Ginger Vapes has the 2x20700 squonker at: https://gingervaper.com/product/boxer-mod-classic-dna250c-bf-squonk-dual-20700-with-evolv-dna250c-temperature-control/ Received my black one from the pre-order today. They currently show blue in stock.

Hit the fire button 3-5 times after removing the old coil and before putting the new coil on. At least in prior firmware it was an undocumented feature that this would trip a need to resample. Let us know if that helps.

Just got a Boxer 250C. It calibrated very close to the numbers I'm seeing on a DNA75C, i.e. Kanthal builds at around 0.2, 0.4 and 0.5 ohms all needed right around 0.010 to come into calibration with a unit I believe to be very well calibrated using a much different methodology (Boxer came default at 0.004). Using a shorting pin it initially stabilized at about 0.014, but when I unscrewed it and screwed it back in atomizer analyzer reported it as -0.002. Yes, that's negative. The 75C with current firmware reads "?" on my VapeDroid X1C2, so it obviously is working or reporting different to the 75C. Personally I wouldn't trust shorting pin results on any of the "C" chips.

My tracking shows mine is showing up tomorrow. Am I likely to have this problem? Guess it'll be the first thing I check....

The 75C reads ohms in a considerably different way than the 75 did. If Lost Vapes used a default value instead of actually calibrating that would explain part of the difference. Not 100% sure yet on the 250C, but on the 75C a shorting pin is useless. The resistance readings the chip gets are progressively far from correct as it approaches 0 ohms - so an almost dead short (i.e. a shorting pin) will not tell you even close to how far off you actually are up over 0.1 ohms. I "knew a guy" who was able to correctly calibrate my Lost Vapes Therion 75c to actual correct numbers and it needs a resistance offset somewhat over 0.014 versus most of my 75's needing an offset closer to 0.008. That said, if you are getting a dead cold reading of 0.37 when you are supposed to be getting a reading of 0.25 then there is a problem with the unit. Most often it's a faulty 510 connection. That frequently leads to resistances jumping all over the place which is totally unacceptable for temp control - which is (at least a major part of) what Replay is doing even if Evolv doesn't want to directly say so.

Is this addressed to me? Amps are generally in the 9-15 range except for very brief period at start. Am using VTC6 batteries. I gave the builds (but not the cold ohms) on everything but the original VapeDroid X1D2 with Skyline. For the record, that one is 6 3mm wraps of 0.6mm SSV ohming out on that mod to 0.146-0.147 cold. To repeat what was in the post with multiple graphs, the VaporShark Vape Flask 133 with a Squape X had dual 8 3mm wraps of 0.4mm SSV ohming out on that mod to 0.201. The second Skyline I have had 8 3mm wraps of 0.5mm SSV ohming out to 0.247 on the Hobo X and 0.257 on the BAR V3 DNA75c. Note that Evolv is working hard on fixing cold ohm readings on the 75c chips, but there is still some discrepancies and non-linearities, i.e. it can be calibrated right to the Hobo at one particular ohm and read different than the Hobo at a different ohm - it has been improving on most of the recent firmwares. Currently having 4 of the 75c mods from 3 different manufacturers, I do believe the 75c mods appear to be consistent between themselves even if they aren't always consistent with the Hobo. Also you probably ain't running a 0.09 ohm TI build on a DNA 75c (not really enough power for that), but if you are you might want to know that there currently appears to be real problems with the consistency of cold ohm readings down at 0.1 and below.

OK, here's a better comparison (how do I delete a post?!). New wick, chain vaped (which I do) to where it's no longer saturated from initial wetting of wick and already hot (the graph you referred to came from first puff rather than after hot). Again pausing between each puff to reset wattage upward and changed scale from 15s to 35s to fit all three puffs. With a new wick like this 27.5W is still fine and it'd even be OK for me at 30W - see it easing up at end? But 35W is doing what I say I don't like. Within the first or certainly by second tank on this skyline (at least with my wicking) I'd have to drop back to the 27.5W to get what I'm getting at 30W here. It'll then maintain that through ~10 tanks before needing rewicking or lowering wattage further.