LeeWB3

So is the 75c not auto updating all the time like previous DNA 250s, 200s and 75s? All my other DNA devices (20+) would have recognized the lower ohms if left sitting on my office desk for a long enough period of time....

I don't know if this is what's called refinement or what. But, previous DNA boards left charging overnight and unplugged in the morning would generally show a 0.000 ohm reading when first woken up. Clicking the fire button would reset the ohms to a correct cold value, sometimes quite different than what it was when it was plugged in to let sit overnight (e.g. you just built a coil, worked out the hot spots and set the "cold" ohms while the temp was actually still slightly elevated). The DNA 75c does not appear to be automatically changing ohm readings like this in the morning. I left one overnight last night after building a coil as described above and in the morning it still had the higher ohms. Before firing I looked on the computer and could clearly see that the ohms reported on the mod screen were higher than the unit was reporting in Escribe now that it was cold. Is a manual "Resample" (or whatever theme calls it) necessary for the ohms to be updated?

Just got two new DNA 75c boards. One is the VapeDroid X1D2 and the other is a speciality modder's. The VapeDroid came with something other than default calibrations for Thermal values. The speciality modder's did not. I assume that the values for Min and Max Output fields are as much as anything to make the Theme gauges appear more reasonable (who really runs 250degF or 600degF even if the board is capable of it?). That leaves me needing to set the speciality modder's device with the normal Thermal values plus a new Case Static Temperature Rise. For these other fields on previous DNA devices the obvious thing to do was to run the case analyzer in a temperature controlled environment and the test would populate these values for you. This does not appear to be the case for the DNA75c. The case analyzer will certainly RUN and it does populate _most_ of the values. However, it does not set the new USB Connect Temperature Rise which the VapeDroid does and yields dramatically different results than provided on the VapeDroid. Of course, I have no idea whether VapeDroid's values are correct, but since the case analyzer is not setting the Case Connect Temperature Rise and there DOES appear to be some rise in the case temperature by simply connecting to USB even with USB charging turned off (plus the fact that creating a new device with factory defaults DOES set that field) I am not certain I believe that the Case Analyzer is yielding better results than those provided by VapeDroid. Which leaves me in a quandary as to how to set ALL the values correctly for the speciality modder's device. Is there any trick to setting these values? Do we still just run Case Analyzer and ignore the the new field after the test sets it to 0? If not, do I set this field by allowing the mod to come to full ambient temp, note the board temp (by choosing a theme that allows me to see it), connect the mod to a computer, immediately turn off USB charging and allow the board to re-equalize in temp so I can note how much temperature rise occurs? If this is reasonable, what does this value do to the Case Static Temperature Rise? I'd assume it doesn't affect Case USB Charge Temperature Rise, but am not certain. There will be a considerable number of people, including modders, that will want to set these values correctly since they fairly dramatically affect the ability to obtain correct cold ohms.

[QUOTE=Wayneo] Thanks @LeeWB3. We're all good[/QUOTE] Thanks for you understanding. Guess I wasn't my best self that particular minute. For now I've just moved the NarTA with SS to a different mod and put a RTA with SSV on the VapeDroid. The SSV is a LOT less sensitive to this minor increase in resistance and I just add 10-20 °F to compensate.

Thank you for your response. Of the items off the top of your head, all are possible but a few seem less likely in my specific case - I definitely believe as good a connection as could be achieved was achieved since I cleaned the 510 with a cue tip and it was screwed down well and atomizer analyzer didn't show much movement at all. I think the fact that it's working well on the Hobo-X suggests it's not the atty posts. And this particular atty is a NarTA which several friends VERY knowledgeable about TC are using quite successfully (and it works well with the hobo). That kinda points more toward wonky 510 - The VapeDroid certainly has a spring loaded adjustable 510. I hate to hear that this might be the issue because it was pretty well reviewed by so many of the better reviewers. However, I'm tending to think that IS the problem and maybe the spring is causing a resistance rise that it shouldn't. Guess I can always just adjust by feel. Don't know exactly what I'll do about it, but again, thanks for pointing me more toward the right thing to look at.

I understand you won't read this, but nevertheless I will apologize. I have revised my initial response above to more directly answer the questions you asked and not be as.argumentative. Maybe I was having a bad day. When I read your response it just struck me that that you hadn't actually read my post because all the questions you asked were specifically answered in that unedited post. Then some of your comments seemed quite obviously inconsistent with my experience such as suggesting 100W on that single coil (which I knew to need less than 50W to reach temp). In actual fact I should have been more considered in my response and realized that the problem MUST have been that I wasn't being clear enough in actually stating the problem, how I was demonstrating the problem and what kind of help I was looking for. In case that's still not clear (and it may not be), in a nut shell it is "What do you do about a mod that reads more change in resistance than is actually occurring? Other than, I guess, just turning up the temperature to obviously wrong numbers." So, again, I apologize for reacting like I did.

A) As stated in the original post, the VapeDroid hits the 520°F set temperature immediately (in much less than a second) with the Pre-heat set at 50W and the run wattage set at 32.5W. I did not show that run because that doesn't illustrate the problem. As your edit surmised, the concern is basically mod calibration. Or more precisely mod calibration while firing. B) I realize it was a guess, but the specific single coil clapton (staggered 28g) doesn't need anywhere near 100W to reach temperature. Since you've asked for it, here is a Hobo run at 50W, which is plenty as you can see (note ohms were locked so I could switch back and forth between the two devices without it asking or accidentally changing to new, warm ohms). Do you need to see a run with the VapeDroid as well. I must admit I don't understand how it relates to what I'm asking but I could certainly provide. Basically it just hits faster and throttles more because it's misreading the ohms while under load. C) Not sure if you use SS much, but if you do I'm sure you know that 10 minutes is not NEARLY long enough for the coil to reach room temp in a clapton. Maybe you were more focused on the mod? I always let SS refine overnight before thinking I have a good ohm reading. Doing that for both they give 0.418 with the mod resistances I've set after 9 hours or so of cooling. The runs in the original post were done with cool mods other than the heat raised as I was firing them to get the runs (it took a couple to figure out how high to raise the temp on the VapeDroid to get it to run the same voltage without throttling.) D) All variables on the Escribe screen were given in the original post, but if it helps to see in one place, they were: Wattage: 32.5W, 520°F, 50W Pre-heat, 6.5 Punch, 3seconds. If you like it graphically, they are exactly as shown in the screen cap above, except wattage was 32.5W rather than the 50W I used to show it'll reach temp. D) To answer your edit, because this IS about calibration (more or less), as stated in the original post the Mod resistance of the VapeDroid was 0.005 and the Mod Resistance of the Hobo X was 0.004. E) If that answered your questions, perhaps restating the actual question would be helpful. The VapeDroid is calibrated cold to the same settings as the Hobo X. However, when the VapeDroid hits the same RTA/coil with the same voltage it shows a significantly higher (for SS) change in resistance. I chose to show voltage rather than the more common wattage because wattage depends upon a known ohms and that is what appears to be off. The higher change in resistance causes the VapeDroid to believe it is running significantly hotter than the Hobo X thinks it runs. Again, with identical settings. F) I am being told that the spring changing resistance in the VapeDroid 510 as it gets warm is most likely the culprit, but don't know what to do about it.

I have a Hobo-X (actually, 3). I also have two VapeDroid C1D2s. The Hobo-Xs are at defaults and the C1D2s are calibrated for mod resistance and case numbers as closely as I can get them. I built a 5 wrap 28g/40gX2/40g SS Staggered Fused Clapton in a NarTA. The VapeDroid C1D2 and the Hobo-X are calibrated so both read it as EXACTLY 0.418 ohms cold. I have left them overnight on both devices several times and that's just what both give me. That took a 0.005 in mod resistance on the VapeDroid and a 0.004 on the Hobo-X (which is the Hobo's default). Both devices are using the exact same SS316L profile from Steam-Engine. Both are set at 50W pre-heat with 6.5 punch. With both set to a 520°F temp and a run wattage at 32.5W, the VapeDroid goes IMMEDIATELY to the 520°F while the Hobo-X never even reaches it. I dropped the wattage on the VapeDroid to 31.5W and raised the temp to 570 instead and graphed as shown in attached. Note that the C1D2 is on the left and the Hobo-X is on the right. Cold ohms were 0.418 for both during both runs.. After dropping the wattage on the VapeDroid to the 31.5W instead of 32.5W, you can see that they are now applying the exact same Voltage and the curves actually start looking the same between the two - except the VapeDroid is reading 50 °F hotter because it's reading the warm ohms as 0.517 instead of 0.509. They vape the same setup this way. Is this simply unavoidable? I was big on getting the mods calibrated correctly, but this kinda implies that whole goal of correctly setting Mod Resistance so cold ohms read the same on every device doesn't necessarily actually end up in the same place because the ohms are changing more on the VapeDroid than they are on the Hobo-X. Only thing I can figure is the internal wiring and 510 of the VapeDroid at temp is adding 0.01 ohms that the Hobo-X isn't? I do see that the board temp of the VapeDroid is WAY higher than the Hobo-X. Should I just give it up and just set the VapeDroid at 570 °F and vape the darn thing? Kinda throws the "well, 470°F is good for fruits, 510°F is good for custards", etc. out the window. I'm kinda leaning toward setting up all variables on the Hobo-X (I trust them) for each atty and then installing on mod I want to use them on and adjusting temp until the curves look the same......

Thank you for the information. I'd kinda assume that the test measured the temperature change observed and divided by the expected charging rate of 0.4A. The results of the test for that mod was reported as 19.24 degF/A, so, assuming it's doing what I think it's doing, that would imply it actually saw an increase of 7.696 degF (19.24 degF/A * 0.4A). It would seem to me to be more accurate to override the calculated value and use the temperature change of 7.696 divided by the actual reported input current of 0.260A to find a degF/A of 29.6 degF/A. Since the manufacturer did not provide values, I'd agree the 19.24 degF/A is likely better than Evolv default values. However, would it it not be even better to manually input the 29.6 degF/A as calculated above?

I am attempting to run the case analyzer on a DNA 75 that was not calibrated by the manufacturer. I do know what I'm doing. I cooled the mod to room temperature overnight, hooked it to the computer and started the case analyzer quite quickly to minimize charging temp change. The mod reached back to ambient temperature in the 30 minutes it allows and then started charging. All normal and as expected. When the mod started charging the top portion of the case analyzer dialog box reported that it was charging at 0.4A. However the graph portion showed that it was charging at 0.240A. I have a very late model, custom built PC that I am sure is capable of outputting the USB 2.0 standard of 0.5A (actually, 0.495A per escribe device monitor). Is the latest Service Pack (1.2SP5) incorrectly telling my computer to only charge at 0.240A or is it misreporting that it is supposed to be charging at 0.4A when it is actually trying to charge at 0.240A? This discrepancy would HAVE to throw off the degF/A calculation unless one of those two numbers were wrong.

Yeah, I ran the battery analyzer with a 0.5 load at 40W and got 10.45Wh on a used one I just picked up for cheap. Wondering if anybody ever found one that just fit which gave a bit more capacity. E.g. the "replacement" one that's supposed to be closer to advertised numbers. I am not interested in taking a dremel tool to it - know I'd just screw it up.

What is best practices when running Battery Analyzer with 18650s and 26650s as far as wattage? On the DNA 200s they recommend 40W, but the battery sag in the standard batteries gives you various messages about not being able to hit that wattage as the battery gets low. Still use 40W?

My results of battery analyzer. (Just misspelled Basen when I saved the file. ) Bison_Black_26650.csv

To the guy asking about the version for the DNA 200. Version 1.2 SP3 is both the most recent "early firmware" AND the version you'll get if you install the default version downloaded from the site. When you install the default version it will autocheck the "apply service pack" option and when it does that installation it does the SP3 upgrade. So, V1.2 SP3 is no longer "early firmware" - it is the official version.

Yeah, sorry if confusing. As I understand it, Sweet Spot Vapors Ti wire is a specific alloy of Titanium with lots of engineering to reduce chance of TiO2, etc. On their site they provide different material CSV profiles for the 0.4, 0.5 and 0.6mm versions they sell. I'm not noticing a difference with the 0.5 and 0.6 profiles, but the 0.4 profile is requiring MUCH more power to reach set temp and the apparent warmth of set temps that used to be pretty darn warm is now schorchingly hot. I figured some of you guys probably used it and was checking to see if this was just me... Which it certainly may be because I haven't used a lot of the 0.4...

Is anybody else having problems with SSV 0.4 under SP3? All 8 of my DNA 200 and DNA 75 boards are reading a coil higher than previously and it's pushing temp down like it's being installed warm. Using the 0.5 profile I get about a 30 degree shift downward in expected temps and using the 0.4 profile I get about an 80 degree shift downward. Have seen some others on a Facebook group seeming to describe a similar problem where they seemingly are reaching temp (flatlined but increases in W don't get hotter) but graph is showing they are not getting there. I've obviously removed profile and reinstalled it from SSV's site so I don't think it's that.

I bought a custom 133 and am getting closer to 15.5 Wh on two LG HG2s. I was kinda surprised and plan to run again tonight. What kinda resistance and watts would you recommend? At 1.0 ohms it won't do 40W. Choked off my long 22g Kanthal and added another loop to get 0.54 ohms and now get 16.06 Wh.