turbocad6

actually replacing the battery is very easy, but carrying spare T-cell configured packs wouldn't be so easy, at least not in a pocket. probably not the best idea to carry spare lipo's in your pocket anyway I made it easy to switch between the small 600 pack and a 1000 pack, it works great with the 1000 pack too but it's just too fat a more conventional stacked pack would be easier to carry spares than the funky T configured one so I wasn't planning on making spare T packs, but it could def be done. also compact designs can be done with the 600's in a more easy to carry standard stacked pack design if battery swapping is a big concern I guess, but it's hard in your case when your going through 6 18650's in a day swapping the 18650's and charging the 18650's is of course easier still, in the end everything is a trade-off

thanks

it's amazing how many of these large companies can't get simple basic wiring stuff like this right, I mean there are 15 year old kids out there that would know better than to use a tiny jst plug and 20 ga. to carry 23 amps, or to put 2 adjacent male battery posts sticking out of a live volatile power supply with as much energy potential as a 1,500 mah lipo, how can these large companies be so incompetent? who's actually designing these things for them? I wouldn't even believe some of these things without actually seeing it, it's crazy...

man I need a handful of extra screens where is the best place to buy them? can I buy them straight from evolv?

bob I'll probably make a brass cover with ss buttons on the 3s woody. I also have a VV woody that I was thinking of trying with dual 18350's, there are a few 350's out there now that aren't too wimpy but as john says gonna have to run lower power for sure, especially as a 2s but even 60-70 watts or so should still be a nice kick over just a dna40.

alright here's some pics for size references. a single 18650 would be ideal but trying to work with what we got, here is the 2s 1,400 pack, it's about the size of a woodvil door, I'll get exact dimensions it's from a turnigy multistar 1.4 pack I also cut up a woodvil tonight to see if it would fit a dna200 with the 3s 600mah and it fits. a 3s in this config as a pack would be easy to swap if you wanted to swap if you really want a extended battery life mod once you go up to 1,000mah lipo size your at the dual 18650 size, that might be best for you size wise, it's def quite a bit fatter than my reference woodvil, but can get dual 3,000 mah 18650's. it will slim down a bit as it's finished but still gonna be a fat one I think it comes down to either having a few smaller mods or one bigger one and last layout as a size reference is this config pictured below which is 4 600's in a 2s2p, would be a little wider than a woodie but can be made slim and relatively short

wow that's cool, what length cable is that? is that the 5"?

I like the dome tact's, use them all the time, just wish they were waterproof. if you find any ip67 rated switches like these I'd like to know about them any links to these omron switches even ?

I have one 3 cell pack that I made that developed a bad connection somewhere within the pack itself and it does the same thing as this. when I play with the connections within the pack the voltage jumps from 12 plus down to 1-2 volt range and all 3 cells drop all the way down. says check battery and displays no battery symbol on the main screen, when I switch to another pack it's perfect. it sounds like a problem in the battery pack, especially on this mod, one video review showed this thing actually has a suicide connector on the main battery connector, try poking around at the pack with it plugged in to escribe and watch the screen for jumping voltages

the cheap little bb type buttons are NOT ip67 rated which is why I think the onboard buttons are probably better than the external bb buttons, and they do feel better to me than the bb's

bob I got a few ideas in mind for BF's, just no time to play. I even came up with a way to get a woodville to fit a dna200 too which should be cool and not much more difficult than installing a dna40. the trick with BF is to find the right cells. the 600mah cells I'm using are great, I can fit 3 of them in a woodvil with a little modification. all 3 cells stacked are same depth and only 3mm wider than an 18650. I know they're only the equal of ~ 1,800mah 18650 but honestly it hasn't been bad at all in use so far, I just plug it in when I'm in the car or sitting at my desk to throw a little extra juice at it. good thing about a smaller battery is it charges pretty quick, I get around 1% per minute on usb at 1a, so a 25 min usb charge adds 25% to the battery level. I'd like to be able to charge it at 3 or 4 amps though because at lets say 4a the battery would charge from empty to full in ~ 25 min. I always carry at least 2 mods with me but since I've built the dna200 I've been able to vape it exclusively and haven't vaped any other mod for a few weeks now so the smaller pack has been very manageable as long as you're able to throw it a little charge here and there, 10 minutes here and 15 minutes there makes all the difference in extending it to a full day for me and the way I vape at least. I also found another cell setup that would build a really nice feeder too. I bought a 1,400 mah 3s pack but then remove one cell for a 2s 1,400 which winds up being comparable to ~ 2,800mah 18650. the nice thing about this pack is after it's modded to 2s it's only ~ 11mm thick, so again, it will build a mod ~ woodville size give or take with a little creativity I wish I had some tolerance for a plastic mod because designing something like this for a 3d printer would be cool, only I can't stand plastic myself and wouldn't waste the time to design a printed mod personally I've been thinking about building a run of aluminum machined mods with a cnc machine shop but being a vendor on ECF kinda sucks in some ways so I've not been so eager to do it really but I'm thinking about it

cold ohms at .55, looks to be in kanthal mode, a bad connection somewhere on the output to the 510, or 510 to atty, or atty to coil, assuming you really have a much lower ohm nickel coil in there? even if temp control is enabled it still auto senses and switches on the chip in use and right now doesn't look to be in temp mode which is most likely a bad connection

bottom pin marked c is common, no is normally open and nc is normally closed. we want a no switch so one wire to common C and one wire to the terminal above it marked NO. that's it, that will fire the mod. the - & + terminals on the left and right are for a light or led inside the switch, don't need to be used for the switch to function but if you want it to light up too then need more specs of the switch at least. that's prolly what the resistor is for but that's dependant on the voltage. not sure of the voltage of the fire circuit or the best way to get the switch to light up. there are 2 points on the board made specifically for an led so you might be able to wire the + & - to the board there, prolly the best way but again, not sure of voltage compatabilities

not sure if this is the right place to request features but I've been doing a bit of research on lipo's and the RC car community and from what I've been learning, a 4.1v cutoff is great for maximizing cycles, while a 4.2 cutoff is the best for performance, but it seems the general consensus across several boards is that 4.15 seems to be the real sweet spot between maximizing cycles while still having really good run times, any chance the choice between 4.1v and 4.2v could also have a third middle of the road setting at 4.15?

I think it would be awesome but forget about the dna200 for this, maybe more like an updated dna40, so like a dna 50 or 60 that's about the same form factor as the 40 is, but with escribe type capability. prolly be the next progression of the dna40 I would think, that would be really cool

I think when it knows for sure that it's a different coil it don't ask, it just assumes it is and goes with the new reading, it only asks when it's close enough that it could be the same coil. I don't think it stores anything more than the last set base resistance

you can remove the screen completely then test it. it'll still work fine without the screen if everything else is ok

locking the ohms is a bandaid for an erratic or less than ideal connection. only reason it's in the software is because the competition offers this and many have requested it and it is doable, so evolv did it, but ideally you shouldn't ever have to lock the ohms. if you get frequent new coil same coil msgs then it might be a better idea to just measure the resistance of your mod then add the resistance to the offset in escribe, if your resistance is jumping around enough that you need to use the resistance lock then there is a problem that should be corrected.

vidalchris, that schematic will cause unbalanced errors in the board to display if you try to fire it like that

yes, pin labeled# 3 on the balancing plug is connected to battery + of the board. evolve labels the balance plug as gnd 1 2 3 instead of 1 2 3 4 but the last one is equal to battery +

balancing connectors are always ground on pin #1, doesn't matter if it's a 2S, 3S or 12S, then pin #2 is the first cell, #3 is the second cell and so on, depending on how many cells. so pin 3 will be voltage potential of cells #1 and 2, compared to ground, it will show only cell #2 voltage if you measure from pin 2 to pin 3. technically pin #4 would be considered the battery + of a 3s pack

yes, if you set it to "power supply" in escribe, then it ignores the balance connectors

yes, 3s2p will work, 2s2p will also work but for 133 watts...

I just upgraded to win10 and still working no problem, 64 bit home version

mandro's aluminum one is sick, really like the leather wrapped on aluminum too. mine is the wood one. I'm using 3 600mah cells, it charges pretty quick, under 2 hours, haven't really timed it to know exactly but it's not bad really. the 600mah is a bit light, I'd say I get about as much battery life as I would get on an older 18650, back when 1,600-1,800 was the best you would get out of high drain cells, not as good as a current good single 18650 like a sammy 25r, but really not so bad considering how tiny they are. this 600mah T pack is the key to how I got this thing so tiny though...