turbocad6

well the more I think about this the more I think that the backfeeding of the board shouldn't be an issue, there is already voltage potential there so I can't see more voltage from charging causing any concerns, the board polls the battery on each fire I think so it should update to the new power level no problem, I don't see any reason why this wouldn't work. I would avoid plugging in a usb at the same time, but other than that I think it should be fine I get what you're saying with maybe mini deans but I think there still too big for something like this unless you have extra space, and they can carry way more amperage than we'd ever need for a few amps charging. I used mini deans as my main battery connections I'm using a pair of jst's for the balancing and there really small, I could see that working for something like this and they can be recessed a bit so shorting wouldn't be as much of an issue, although yeah def need some kind of cover for the port anyway. ideally I'm thinking a flip up door or cover that won't get lost instead of a removable piece but depends on the design I guess

ok, makes sense cause I thought the last time I looked I seen that you would need to go to the mains for 5 amps... I'd be happy with even 3 amps and may be worry less about abusing the pack at 3 amps... one thing to be concerned about is that this quick charge plug will have voltage potential and be a possible point of shorting if it's not sealed or internal. what do you have in mind for the plug? I'd like something easily accessible, almost like a docking port but shorting is a concern

awesome man, thank you. so now I'm wondering, since a pair of 18650's in no larger than a 1,000 mah 3s pack yet gives much more battery life than even a 1,300 mah 3s pack, why would a lipo even be considered, other than if you actually needed to go over 133 watts? the dual 18650's just seems to be a no brainer here, yet lipo's are suposedly better, more energy density, better discharge curve, lower internal resistance, why is the dual 18650 still superior to a lipo of the same approx size?

haven't seen one that goes to 5 amps before on just the balance plug, that's cool. def sounds like a good idea as long as it's not gonna cause the packs to swell or make them a whole lot more likely to blow while charging, I was thinking of staying with the 1 amp to avoid any problems but if this is doable without much increased risk I'd like to do it too. 3amps don't sound bad, vaporshark is going 2amp on board charging, having a 3 amp or more externally plugged in quick charge would be cool, only thing is now to know weather this is ok to do with the dna200 still inline or not, switching would be more of a pita but still not too bad I guess

that's def worth something, thanks for that. what kinds of power levels does she vape at?

from my understanding the balance plug alone is not enough to support this kind of fast charging, to really charge at those kinds of rates the charger needs to be connected to the main battery leads as well as the balancing plug and the main high amperage charging is done through the main wires as a pack, then it is trickle balanced after the high amperage charging, but I don't know the actual limits, maybe up to 3a might be doable? the balancing leads are pretty light I guess the second thing is weather this would backfeed into the board if done while connected to the board. how will the board deal with this I don't know

I have tested the 1,000 mah pack in my first dna200 and I agree, it lasts longer than a single 18650, I agree that it's probably at around the 1.2-1.3 X the capacity just judging by the amount of juice consumption I can get from that pack, but that still tells me that 2 18650's will have more life, and really 2 18650's should give a bit more than double the life of a single 18650. what I don't know is how much the better discharge curve and lower resistance of the lipo closes this gap in the real world or how much the lower voltage usable curves affect this. either way I'm planning a permanent soldered battery install on this one so it will always be internally charged. I'd rather not have to build it both ways and compare it myself, I'd rather just wire it once and seal it up but I still don't know for sure that the dual 18650's is def the better way to go or not. I'm thinking it is but not really sure

you can't order one chip that way. you might be able to order 300 or 500 of them with a special request like that but the only practical way to do one is to remove them after if you must have them off

ok, I've got a semi stupid question. one of my dna200 mods is coming from a converted dual 18650 mod I was building originally for a dna40. when I decided to convert it to dna200 I milled it out further to fit a 1,000mah pack. this was before the 2s option. now I'm looking at the mod and realizing that I could still finish it either way, as a 1,000mah 3S ,or as a dual 18650 in 2S config now assuming the 133 watt limit is not a concern, is there any reason to use the 1,000mah pack over the 2 1650's? I mean the dual 18650's will have much more mah but I don't know anything about how the differences in discharge curves affect anything. I guess my real question is, assuming I never go over 125 watts anyway, which would be better? is it as simple as the higher mah wins or is there an advantage to the 3S lipo I'm not seeing?

the dome tact's are not waterproof I searched for waterproof micro switches like this and never found anything good. these are said to be waterproof, meaning there def not just the cheapest switches, there probably higher quality than the ball tact's really would be my guess.

when there all black with one red, the red is the last cell, and the positive output of the pack, the plug always starts with ground on the oposite end, then cell 1 cell 2 and 3. when it's one black and 3 red then the black is ground and then again it's cell 1,2 3... some packs use black and red on the ends and then use different colors for the in between cells best thing to do is look at the orientation of the plug and remember where the ground is relative to the plug itself, then even if the wires were all one color or even not there at all you'll always know exactly how it should go

yeah, I had the same problem, individual jst's solved it here's a few shots of it wired all up with the 600mah T pack def couldn't fit the big white 4 prong plug

hana v200's are known for potential 510 connection "issues", everything from poor wiring connection to poorly grounded 510 housings... if you are a tinkerer then open it up and inspect the wire to the 510, see if maybe the pin got stuck down, if everything looks good then try jumping from battery ground straight to your atomizer... if your not a tinkerer then send it back

mandro, if you don't have enough room for the balancing connector you might be able to fit a pair of the small jst plugs, each one does only 2 wires but if you label them 1 & 2 it works just fine and is much more compact than the big white 4 in a row connector

I've seen pictures with the 200w screen on the bottom somewhere before, unless it was a pre dna200 that was photoshopped with the 200w display?

might not be a bad idea to give a few more clues, like what kind of mod it is? sounds like a bad connection somewhere in the atty output circuit

so are you saying that the screen works fine with your 5" extension? you played with it a bit no glitches or anything? like you said would be really cool as a better quick disconnect than directly at the board with the ziff. using a ziff to pin adapter would open up a lot of possibilities with board installation too.

so it's working? what kind of length are you trying?

looks like they are now calling 1,800, what they used to call 1,500...

I made an aluminum sled to mount my 200 and shorting was a big concern. I inspected everything well and I found a few places where I needed to reduce my standoffs to a really tiny landing just to give good clearance to adjacent stuff. also the screws needed here are really tiny with really tiny heads I winded up finding screws tiny enough in an old cellphone screen mount but before I found the right screws I found some that were almost small enough but not quite. if you use screws that are not tiny enough your increasing your chances of shorting or damaging the board

also your battery contacts can make a HUGE difference here. when a battery shows 3.7v at rest and hits a battery warning when vaping it is most likely less than great connections, unless of course the batteries are just crap

perfectly safe. even if you use a 2.1a charger meant for most modern phones the dna will still only charge at 1a maximum. the only "danger" is more wear and tear on the usb port itself. using it often with the cable tethered could add strain and eventually cause the usb connector to lossen up or even get damaged if your always pulling on it. as long as you don't stress the usb jack much you can plug it in any chance you get with no problems

ha, no I'm basically a mechanic. I've had this user name forever. originally comes from a car I built a long time ago, an 83 cadillac fleetwood coupe with a turbocharged grandnational v6 engine, = turbocad6 just stuck with me from car forums on up to ecig forums

many high end audio equipment the warranty is only valid if bought from an authorized dealer and the dealers have a minimum advertised guidelines too, you can finds deals on this equipment, but anything not bought reatail from an authorized dealer is considered grey market and the factory warranty will be voided.

ok, so I finally got my dna200 squeezed into a bottom feeder and overall it's working great but I have had 2 issues when I first got it up and running. the first is that with no atty attached it showed shorted, then I attached an atty and it still showed shorted, then it sat a bit and I poked at the fire switch here and there, then all of a sudden it showed check atomizer instead of shorted, so I screwed an atty on and it worked fine... after a few hours vaping it on and off all of a sudden it showed shorted again... I pulsed the button several times and after a bunch of clicks all of a sudden it read the atty correct again and fired fine. it's been working fine since... now I know that the atty wiring itself and 510 is not shorted and never was. I have the chip in a cradle and it's bolted down and there is no chance of movement or anything that could possibly cause a short between ground and atty out, but it did this a few times now sporadically and then resolved itself so I just figured I'd ask here to see if any ideas on this one... it's been fine for the past day & 1/2 though. atty always reads solid stable and in atty checker my connection is rock solid and always stable, always returns to the same value, no anomalies there at all but I was never able to actually connect it to escribe while the issue of shorted presented itself, if it happens again that's the first thing I'll do but it hasn't happened again second kinda strange thing was, in device monitor I was monitoring all 3 cells and at some point when I was firing the mod, the 1st cell voltage would go up, the 3rd cell voltage would go down and the 2nd cell stayed about the same with a very slight drop while firing. then a different time it displayed correctly with all 3 cells dropping the same and following each other, but then again at another point it did the same thing showing the 1st cell going up and the third dropping while firing. any thoughts on this? I honestly can't tell you what version firmware I'm on at the moment but it's def from july, haven't updated to the latest yet. neither of these things are persistent problems and right now everything is fine, just these 2 things got me wondering enough to at least mention and ask here about them