Spector NS5 RD

is it just me or is this thread f***ing weird? whats' this thread about anyway, lol?

totally open as in an open circuit? cold solder joint maybe?

blue and most of the colors of the rainbow are ok. just dont pulse them past a dark red. i never do and i never go above 10 watts. dull grey/yellowish-you cooked your coil. as in created ti dioxide. bad stuff. makes your peter fall off. but seriously, its no good for you. EDIT...... are those all your builds coils, mods....... i even see some power supplies laying around. nice......

great looking build. i see youre insistent on making dual ni coils, lol. arrrrggggggg. try a single one first. make absolutely sure they're an equal number of wraps if their gonna be dual coil. im telling you if you have some ti grade 1 you'll be much happier. you can do contact coils with ti. overall easier to work with.

device monitor looks good, normal. maybe try building a little higher in the ohm range like .15 and above. ive noticed that the 200 is quicker to throw up the " temperature protected" message than the dna 40. but all that message means is youre set wattage is higher than what is needed for that peroid of time during your vape, so the chip regulates the wattage so your temperature isnt exceeded. ive been around temp control for quite a while now and it can still be frustrating sometimes, but most of the times its my error. just play with your temp settings, wattage, builds ohms etc and you'll get the hang of it. i would ditch the nickel, its too fussy to work with(imo). stick with ti. if u get a chance try some nife48, it should be a must try on your list. you probably have hot spots in your nickel coil and your preheat is exploiting that. try a new coil and only make your preheat 25% above your set wattage and see what happens.

ran battery analyzer and got 11.43 watt hours for the stock vt200 lipo. as for the soft cutoff leave it at 3.09. thats just fine for a lipo under our conditions and needs. hope i helped. when my battery meter is completely drained i get the weak batt message 4 puffs after, pretty dead on if you ask me.

what size lipo you got in that puppy? looks sweet btw.

from what u posted, nothing looks fishy with your settings. how bad does it burn your cotton? does it just singe it or burst into flames? you are using spaced coils right? im sure u know nickel is very soft and not to crank down on the post screws. can you post some pics of your build and a screen shot of device monitor while firing the ni or ti coil? make sure temp, set temp, ohms, live ohms, power, and power set are ticked in the boxes. do a couple test fires and post those up on here. edit..... make sure the your mod res is set to .0045 and not .045 just check and make sure

is there any way you can multimeter each cell and post what they are. maybe escribe is a false number for cell 3 edit i doubt two batteries would have the same problem in the same exact cell, which leads me to think a bad solder job on cell tap 3 on the board or the the charging portion of the dna is going kuh-blu-ee

@sy5tem post some pics of the battery in the mod. and what you did to get the battery inside.

throw up some pics of your build especially around the problem area, usb etc.

what are your ohms when you place the COLD atty on your dna 200? not when you fire it for a second then hit new coil. all youre doing is fooling the board into thinking the baseline resistance is higher than what it actually is. what is your temp set at for ni200, and ti? how many watts. what if any csv's are you running? what is your mod resistance set to? what type of atty are you using?

heres what i found, the battery shaped meter is directly related to the watt hour you input in escribe. i tested it by putting in 1 watt hour for the battery and vaped it to empty. it took less than 10 puffs to take the meter from full to empty. my guess its just an estimate with direct relation to what you put in for the wh's. it has nothing to do with the packs voltage at all, completely disconnected from pack voltage.

def v2, cause mine is 86XX and is SS 510

@lewiss how do i get that de bug box in device monitor. im lookin and dont see an option for that box with 'band gap' 'timer' etc? thanks edit.. found out how to do it 7 clicks on the logo in about escribe. now how do i exit it? lol just close escribe?

@theredbaron can you save on dremeling if you strip the turnigy battery of all plastic wrap? or at least cut down on what youre shaving out of the vt?

@jj6404 0763 serial number? is that the brass or ss 510? sounds like a low enough number for it to be the v1.

if you have access to a multimeter you can check the voltage of the pack, and also check to see if your fuse is blown or not. also checking for burnt components. if you feel comfortable enough taking your mod apart. but the easiest way is just rma it. i doubt its your batt. that shouldnt disable the mod from being seen by escribe.

i wonder what the sampling rate is for the dna in TC.

the crown coils use nickle wire welded on the ss for the legs. screws up the dna. same here my temp is crazy off with them coils. my temp line in device monitor looks like the rocky mountains. ss, imo is hard for any device to do in temp mode i dont care what anyone says, i could care lessssssssss. its a very small tcr, thats why. im ditching ss. i have some nife30 from zivipf coming in mail. bye bye ss. i suggest you do the same. or just run youre crown coils in wattage mode. p

ya @rip that looks like best option thus far. if you decide to get it post back on whether it's a drop in or if you had to modify either the battery, enclosure or both. it seems just 4 mm bigger (from screen to back of mod wise).

unplung the batt connect to excribe and force a firmware update. try that. even if the hotcig isnt detected. force firmware update. force it!!!!!! force it real good

dont know for sure but, its most likely a gold plating over the new ss 510. they wouldnt gold plate the brass 510. people would be pissed if they were told they were getting a new ss 510 only to find out they just covered the brass up lol. IMO im not a huge fan of this ss 510. i think the spring could be stiffer and also the center pin is an odd design with some sort of shiny plating (gold?). cant complain tho, got two new silver ones for the price of one.

no topper is gonna have the same feel at one set temperature or wattage. that goes for rda's, rta's sub ohm tanks etc. FYI lemo's are horrible for temp control because of their removable bases, poor connectivity.

ive got two vt200's that have the updated ss 510. The serial number for one of em is 86XX. The SS 510 connector is the only difference between the two current versions.