Spector NS5 RD

curious, were you running a nickel coil on it? what were yer settings watts, temp, preheat, ph punch, which csv were u running? will it connect to escribe? if it does what does yer pack voltage say?

ya it's a joytech chip. there's a couple first looks on youtube. looks decent. however i dunno if a dna 200 would just drop in if you didnt like joytech's board. the fire button is higher up on the joytech chip version, so im guessing it wouldnt line up with the dna's board mounted fire button. this is of course, you were lookin to mod doctor.

lol, talk about gettin your rep up, son! and quick like! i thought i accidentally switched the language to chinese. it's yihi spamming evolv! they're pissed!

hey @dwcraig1 does it look like theres enough room to just piggy back wires onto the existing ones to beef up the connection? and still be able to be put back together?

wow, for real? all 6 dead from ni200? fuses blown? whats the common problem between them? im starting to wonder if the 50 amp current limit(55 peak) on the dna is too much for the current components on the board. i know it is a buck converter and its not drawing 50 amps from the batt, since the fuse is only rated at 25 amps. im thinkin maybe a hardware upgrade with more robust components. lol i dunno, i could be way off base who knows. hell yer customers could have broken their devices by doing something wrong like dead shorting the device. i dont know. i do know i feel bad for you.

no, yer answer is gellin with me. the post about a loose batt connection is the one i doubted. i was hoping an evolv dude i.e. james, john or brandon would chime in. from the horses mouth, ya know?

look what u done started @dwcraig1! @jquaith is up in arms over duh ignant mo-fos up in he-uh. lol thanks for the pics showing where it's soldered on the balance taps. i get it now. i hate to be the one to break it to a certain person that the battery wiring IS SUBSTANDARD. otherwise a great mod and i will get one with or without crappy wiring. i'll rewire it myself need be. good stuff

Wow look for the little wires (2) red + (2) black = 4. Two from the top and 2 on the bottom .. all 4 balance are there and accounted for. Yes on a 3S you need ALL 4 wires; positive and at the end of each negative: [Identical ecig file and identical dual Ti/Kanthal Atty] Next 18650's sag (voltage drop) more that LiPo's. Here's a 2S DNA 200 (133W) with fully charged batteries (2) vs Reuleaux with 3S and nearly depleted (~10%) vs a 2000 mAh LiPo 60% vs 900 mAh LiPo fully charged: [/QUOTE]theres two red and one black, dunno where yer seein the fourth wire. but @vapingbad drew up a sweet diagram to help me understand. thanks @vapingbad.

draw me up a diagram kid. im pickin up what yer layin down, but a diagram would make my night. thanks.

can you figure out where the balance leads are?

im almost positive that has nothing to do with it. this would even happen on the vaporshark dna 40 where the battery is directly soldered to the board. im guessing its just a poor board layout. components being to close together causing interference with the screen commands. i just thought somebody would have an answer. oh well......

where are the balance leads? whats soldered on the four balance taps.

Jesus my computer sucks. Ok let's try this again. How long does case a analyzer take to run? How many hours on average? Also, do I turn off the charge USB limit in device view or leave it alone?

double post.

what caused the big screen 40 to screen scramble? i know this a 200 thread but ive heard everything from the "board components being to close" all the way to "because jesus hates you". whats the real reason for the glitch? please post if you have a concrete answer.

how many watts were you running when you popped the fuse on your first board? Type of wire? temp, preheat? im seeing a lot boards blow a fuse or worse. some where the fuse doesnt blow fast enough and fry the atmel mcu, mosfets, inductors etc. sounds like your fuse again this time. when connected to escribe whats your voltage, pack. take sum close up pics of the board both sides.

had this happen to me. i deleted the program and all related programs and reinstalled it. works now.

sweet. glad to hear it.

please tell me you're working on a complete settings file for the hcigar vt200. one for the stainless steel 510 and one for the brass 510. albeit minute differences between the two. thanks nick.

i think a few other people were having the same problem somewhere in this forum. ultimately, the devices had to be rma'd.

I made a thread in the Software and Firmware section. Is that the right place for it?[/QUOTE]correct-o-mundo

put a request in the feature request section of this forum for a lower tcr value update.

same thing they advertised for the 200 watt. 'taste control' . the 75 watt is the same exact thing as the 200 watt minus 125 watts. garbage device IMO.

That cell still in balanced with the others? Everything good in tha hood?

what if you got some of that quick evaporating electronics aerosol spray and sparyed the whole friggin board down. didn't you spill sumthin on it? i just dont see two batteries doing the same thing. all your resistors still on the balance part of the board?