DannyK9

I can easily get a day out of the nano-tech running a conservative 40W on a standard dual 0.5ohm build.

MIne was a custom wooden floris box - Forgot to mention that

Turn the brightness setting up for the display issue it really is as simple as that[/QUOTE] Thanks, but that's crazy that you can't adjust the brightness without messing something up? By the sound of your prompt concise answer that this is a known, common, problem. Why has this not been resolved!?! I'll let you know if it helps as soon as I try it out. Thanks again, XenonRam[/QUOTE] It's well documented here in the early adaptors forum, i had the same issue but saw the same issues raised ny other people. For some strange reason i think the default is 0% on the brightness - moved mine up to 75% and the screens change to what i've set them too. Downside - When charging the display never goes out

My one died 48 hours ago, using Ni200 Preheat 200W Coil - 0.15 - 0.18 ohm Temp - 450 Watts - 30 Been sent back to modder to investigate

Turn the brightness setting up for the display issue it really is as simple as that

It will be the fuse - Small green thing next to B+ input, see if it has white line/s on it. USB powers the board as the USB is after the fuse. You cant rub the DNA of USB power only though.

Had exactly the same issue yesterday, been working flawless for weeks then just pop. In my case ; Ni200 - 0.15ohm Preheat - 200w Temp - 450 It had been running this for around a week with no issues and then pop - Fuse Blown Checked escribe last night - Batts were balanced and pack voltage was above nominal 11.8V Cant see an obvious reason for why but i did see some other thread regarding some hCigar ones going pop with Ni builds. Sending mine back to the modder for a new fuse, good job i kept a crappy old M80 for emergency use - People always slate the cheaper chinese stuff but hey ive not had one go wrong yet in 2 years DNA 200 ? Faulty within 2 months

These user needs to do one

It would appear the forum has been hacked ? Bloody Spam

Even with a blown fuse they should communicate with escribe, I've also been using Ni200 @ 0.12-0.23 with 200w preheat for about 3 weeks with no issue however mine is a custom box. Maybe the issue is HCigar ? Seems to be the only common link in your issue. Do you have any pics of build particularly the wiring and chip itself

Same issue I had software works in Wine but doesn't communicate. Ended up bootcamping

Great shout, makes sense to me

Sounds like a daft reply but do you know for certain the other ohm readers are accurate ? You could lock the ohms when it reaches 0.14 In general most ohm meters and devices I've dabbled with are almost always out by 0.1 .2 its no big deal

Would this not make the atomiser extremely hot ? It would work in theory but I'm sure most of these guys use heat sink boards with resistors for this reason.

Mine shows charging after about 2 seconds, I find if I hit the fire button though it interrupts the charging and then comes back after a couple of seconds. If I hit a +/_ button it doesn't effect it. Got mine set to First Line - Ohm Second Line - USB Output Third Line - Wh The battery charging icon stays the same regardless unless you set custom screens AFAIK