dwcraig1
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Posts posted by dwcraig1
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Try dropping the watt hours shown in the Mod section of Escribe by 15% and wait awhile.
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IPV2, but can be found in many others.
Escribe will show your battery sag....for better or...
Oh, I didn't do that, it was factory. I did solder the wire on the end of the spring where it contacts the batter on the last one I built (it came with the springs)
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This modification works well when using a coil spring (they in earlier times worked good enough at lower amps)
Factory done below. The wire is soldered to the disc.(braided wire)
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That style of contacts is fine for toys and low amp draw flashlights and such but not a high amp device like a DNA200
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It sounds to me that it's charging only.
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A rounded surface against a flat surface has very little actual contact area, flat to flat has much more.
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1 hour ago, timbuc2dan said:
Is anyone using the new batteries with the PCB Protected Board built into the battery?
With the addition of the PCB the battery becomes longer than 65 mm.
Then perhaps the user decides to screw in the battery cap till it's flush......Bingo....the problem arrives.
Example:
- Typical Capacity: 2000mAh
- Nominal Voltage: 3.6V
- Discharge Voltage: 2.8V
- Charging Voltage: 4.20+-0.05V
- Max Continuous Discharging Current: 30A
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Dimensions:
- Length: 66.9mm
- Diameter: 18.30
- Weight: 46g
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Explain your situation here:
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I'm assuming that after opening Escribe and it didn't connect that you pushed the "connect and download setting " button...correct?
Also the version of Escribe is for the 250....correct?
I had something similar happen awhile back but can't remember just what.
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Have you tried using a different USB cable?
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A new battery is a good idea, there is sure to be some damage from it sitting that low for an extended period.
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Your cells are below the voltage that the charger will start charging from,
You will need to do USB Recovery charge. At the top left of Escribe under the tools tab is the option for USB Recovery Charge.
It's a slow process and you may have to do it numerous times.
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I got about the same on my SDNA75
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2 hours ago, Hot93stang2001@gmail.com said:
There is a dark spot in the center but it's faint.m
Try this, explain details here:
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Sounds like a blown fuse, does it still look green?
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I think you will find that it's this guy.
I feel just the opposite, I cringe at the idea of removing the battery from the board so I charge almost always with USB.... for the same fears.
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On an ERM case that I broke a screw off in one of the boards mounting holes I put a machine screw with a soldering tab and nut through one of the 510' holes through the case and soldered a wire to the tab and output GND. I had to mount the screw that used in my Dremel. I chucked it in my Dremel and run it's head against a file to get it to fit the hole properly. Just saying.
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For a short time they were $20, went up to $40
These are not the ones with stabilized wood, same otherwise though.
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Kanger K1
A few of us over on ECF got a great deal on these.
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1 hour ago, VTDNA said:
I bought a VT250s and it says it should have the DNA 250 board in it but it wont go past 200w and escribe detects it as a DNA 200 what should i do?
I would be contacting the seller about it.
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8 minutes ago, EDMKEV said:
And yes they are that thin sheet metal type of contact you can bend
Not much doubt then that that is the problem. Search the forum for more on that using the "search" feature.
For example:
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I would guess its a problem with the contacts on the battery sled if it is of the flat bent sheet metal type.
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I had seen that picture before but didn't comment at the time.
That is caused by a high resistance connection... or bad connection simply put.
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Here's the positive and it's insulator, it would be near impossible to be able to short there.
But 2nd picture shows how it may short if installed with too much force.
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Problem with the screen in Lost Vape Paranormal
in General Discussion
Posted
Just a guess, looks like the screen's ribbon isn't secured properly to the board or damaged.