giz_60

There could also be issues with the settings on the device, but seems how one atty is working in TC, probably an unstable resistance issue...

Welcome to the Forum......Smok atty's are known to create issues in Temp mode due to the floating pin in the base...they work great in Power mode...and the coils, no matter what the atty, have to be built of wire that can be used in Temp mode....SS, TI1, Ni200 are the most common...lots of info about Temp control on the web...

Ok, with the atty that is showing the volts, the mod appears to be dropping out of TC mode into Power mode. This is usually caused by unstable resistance....screws on build deck not tight enough...atty may need to be disassembled & cleaned, etc...

No, just a screenshot of the 'Screen' tab...

Will need to see a screen shot of your 'Screen' tab, but suspect that the mod is dropping out of TC on one atty...and you are seeing the 'Power' screen field settings...

The screen fields can only be changed in Escribe...can you post a screenshot of the 'Screen' tab from Escribe...

Lavabox DNA75 Problem possible fix in post #5 ?

The following is copied & posted from the following post..https://www.reddit.com/r/Vaping/comments/3j1i6e/lipo_vs_liion_cell_18650/ There is so much confusion coming out now about the "safety" of these "LiPo" packs and explosions and blah blah blah 18650 blah blah. Here's the truth: Real LiPo packs don't exist. Yup. All those "Lithium Polymer" batteries that are in everything aren't actually lithium polymer, they are just Lithium ion battery made into squishy packages. Then why are they called LiPo? A quote from wikipedia: "The denomination "lithium polymer" has caused confusion among battery users. It may be interpreted in two ways. Originally, "lithium polymer" stood for a developing technology using a polymer electrolyte instead of the more common liquid electrolyte. The result is a "plastic" cell, which theoretically could be thin, flexible, and manufactured in different shapes, without risk of electrolyte leakage. These batteries are available[1] although the technology has not been fully developed and commercialized,[2][3][needs update] and research is ongoing.[4][5][6] The second meaning appeared when some manufacturers started applying the "polymer" denomination to lithium-ion cells in pouch format. This is the most extended use nowadays, where "polymer" went from indicating a "polymer electrolyte" to mean a "polymer casing", that is, the soft, external pouch. While the design is usually flat, and lightweight, it is not a true polymer cell, as the electrolyte is still in liquid form, albeit it may be "plasticized" or "gelled" through a polymer additive.[7] These cells are sometimes known as "LiPo", however, from the technological point of view, they are the same as the ones marketed simply as "Li-ion", as the underlying electrochemistry is the same.[7]" To sum that up it basically means that at one point we were trying to develop actual LiPo bateries, but kind of gave up. However, the idea of a squishy/flexible battery stuck with the name so people still call RC Li-ion batteries lipo. What does this mean? It means that Lithium ion (aka 18650) chargers can charge RC lipo batteries and vice versa. It also means that the batteries are theoretically equally safe. I say theoretically because the metal casing of a 18650 style cell does offer more protection than the metallic plastic used in rc batteries, but as long as they are treated safely AKA no shorting, no overcharging (which is impossible with smart chargers) and proper balancing when used in series (which is what the DNA 200 does) you should never have a problem.

Lithium Polymer setting for the Li-ion 18650 cells... "Lithium-polymer batteries” are actually “Lithium-ion polymer” batteries

Yes...2.75

Any Wh calculator you use will usually give you a value that is higher than the actual Wh's...the .csv file & Wh value I gave you was obtained by running the battery analyzer on a Therion...

Also, the Wh you have are a bit high for those batteries & you probably have an incorrect .csv file for them as well...here is the .csv file for the VTC5's... Sony_VTC5 (2)_18650_2600 mah_15,785 Wh.csv ...download this file, in the Mod tab, Load .CSV & select this file...set you Wh to 15.78 & then upload to device...

You are probably hitting the cell soft cutoff & the board is throttling back the wattage...try lowering the cell soft cut off to 2.75 What ohms is the coil you are trying to fire? Can you post a screen shot of device manager while firing?

You will need to go back & read the thread very carefully...it's not plug & play...it's a CHEAT...the DNA devices were not designed to provide pre-heat in power mode...there is some tweaking that you MAY/WILL have to do to the settings to get it to work properly...all the info is in the thread....take your time...it does work...been proven...

On the Therion 166, any atty up to a 25mm will look good...much wider than that is going to probably have some over hang ...I personally prefer the Steam Crave RDTA's...but there are alot of good ones out there...

The device is looking for a 3rd cell that isn't there, changing it to 2 cell & uploading settings to device should have you going...here is the .csv file for the 25r batteries... Samsung_25R (2)_18650_2500 mah_16.92Wh.csv ....download this file & save to your computer...on the Mod tab, click on 'Load .CSV' & then select this file...in the 'Wh' field, enter 16.92...in 'Cell Soft Cutoff', enter 2.75...the LV default 'Mod Resistance' is .004

What kind of batteries are you using in your 166?

Ok, near the top of the screen, go to 'Option>User Interface' & then select 'Manufacturer'...that will give you the 'Mod' tab...on the Mod tab, make sure that it is set for 2 cell...then upload to device... Here is the factory Lost Vape .ecig file for the Therion 166 in case you ever need to restore it to out of box state... Lost_Vape_Therion_166.ecig Edit: When you hit the 'Restore Defaults' in Escribe, you reset the mod to the Evolv defaults, not Lost Vape's

Can you post a screenshot of the 'Mod' tab in Escribe & another of 'Device Monitor' with batteries installed. Make sure you are in the 'Manufacturer' UI so the complete 'Mod' tab will be shown... Edit: A better screenshot can be had by pressing 'PrtScr' on the keyboard, paste it into Paint & save, or using the Snipping Tool that comes with Windows...

If you are referring to the battery indicator on the screen not showing the correct level, it is a known glitch...all my 250 devices will do that if the USB is attached when changing out batteries. I have found that unplugging the USB & either remove & replace the batteries, or let the device set for about 15 mins. it will refresh the indicator & show the proper level again...in the Device Monitor shot, you can see the voltage is showing in both cells, but the % is 0 because of the the same issue, but will reflect the same % seen on the device once it has refreshed itself...

Keep in mind that the DNA boards are not designed for pre-heat in power mode, therefore the workaround 'retird' is referring to is a 'CHEAT'...if at first it doesn't work, you may have to fiddle with the settings to get it to work on your device. Read the thread carefully as there is a lot of info on how to tweak the settings to get it to work... This option is not currently available... That option has been requested a number of times by other users...possibly in a future firmware update...

The Smok TFV atty's utilize a floating 510 pin the base, which can cause issues in TC mode, especially with their RBA's. I had one that would work fine with an OEM coil, but had no continuity with the RBA, unless I pushed up really hard from the bottom on the 510 pin. The watts raising in wattage mode is normal due to the resistance rising as the wire is heating up.

Can you post a screenshot of the 'Mod' tab & one of 'Device Monitor'...