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Posts posted by retird
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I thought mamu's face plates were set up to use the on-board switches? DNA's have a one year warranty.... and very good on-board switches... I've never had one go out...
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Your picture shows 0.817 ohm's without atty ... is that the normal reading of your atty when attached?
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Yep, I think you got-er-done.... that's why I'm not a big fan of "case grounds"...
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_fBo6cIk1M
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OK... from your first post: I fixed that with the internal resistance of the mod in escribe... I have it set to .12 and that gives me a perfect reading however that seems really high and now whenever I press the fire button I can feel the bottom corner of the mod heating up right where the micro USB port is, like it gets hot but cools down rather quickly.
How did you arrive at a resistance setting of 0.12? Did you use an atty "tool" to measure internal resistance? Most resistances I see and use are around the 0.004 to 0.006 range...
You might consider a ground wire from the board to the 510 also... -
If you are not having any issue with the screen then the ribbon is probably OK but it should not touch the fire button as it can cause issues with the screen etc.
The stripped screw... is it a screw holding the board? -
You might loosen and re-tighten the screws holding the board. The ground travels thru the screw. Also the ground gets to the 510 thru the screws holding the two enclosure cases together. Heating of any screw may indicate poor contact thus poor ground...
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Looks like they are using a "case ground build" where the enclosure is the ground path and the 510 gets it's ground from contact with the metal case enclosure...
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Bill, I think the reason Evolv discussed the cost of a battery (if needed) was to inform the person that there would be a charge if the battery was bad... that's all... I got the same information given to me when doing an RMA and my battery was still good but over 8 months old so I sent the 20 bucks with my RMA and told them to replace it anyway....Evolv only warned Mordeth that there would be a 20 buck charge to replace a bad battery IF NEEDED as the battery is not covered by the one year warranty. As Mordeth stated: " warned me that if I needed a new battery that the battery would cost $20. "
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You might just fill out a "Contact US" with Evolv and select Technical Support. Describe what you are wanting and ask that the request be given to James. He is the "guru" of the firmware.... I've not found any other Python Scripts but Good Luck...
http://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add -
And what kind of temperature, wattage, and preheat are you vaping at? Burning cotton shouldn't happen..... as wick dries the DNA reduces power etc. causing less vapor and flavor production....the dryer the wick the less vape production until you get no production.... burning cotton may be an indication of coil hot-spots especially with contact coils...
How about a picture of the coil/ burned cotton combination...
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https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/67057-topic/?do=findComment&comment=903632
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You can set preheat in profiles. I have a few set to vary preheat from 60 watts to 100 watts.
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Smokey1336 said:
Thought my problem was solved appears it isn't I opened up the side panels to find a cold solder joint on my 510 ground ground just let go guess I'll try to fix myself unless evolve will fix
Efusion made a cold solder joint, so let Efusion fix it and the bad insulation tear.... it is still under warranty, right? -
hum....if you are burning cotton with a DNA you are not doing something right....
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It could be a loose connection where the screen ribbon attaches to the board. The screen is replaceable if the pixels just disappeared a little at a time, usually caused by a cracked screen glass or damaged ribbon. Sometimes the ribbon gets damaged as it gets pinched due to contact at the fire switch repeatedly until it just goes out...
Best guesses so hope this helps... -
Can you describe what the screen was doing before it went out completely?
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If I recall it means it is failing the self-check and is out of calibration, thus the wattage settings and the temperature settings aren't correct anymore.
Take it back as it is only 2 days old for a replacement under warranty. Next option after that is initiate a RMA with Evolv which my include just sending only the DNA board to them...
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When I use a Kanthal Clapton (single coil) in power mode the wattage via Device Monitor always rises to wattage setting and flat lines there within .01 or .02 above or below wattage setting. My best guess without physically being able to troubleshoot is either the coils, the connections, or poor grounding in the device. I always use spaced coils. Know that I'm not much help but these are my thoughts. If I recall you posted the same issue back in May.
Might also try cleaning the 510 pins of the device and atty's...and the threading... good luck...maybe others will have a thought that may help ya.... -
From the graph it looks like the wattage is regulating with peaks above 80 watts and valleys below 80 watts so it is reaching 80 watts. Any hot spots in your coils and are they spaced coils? Coil connections tight? What results do you see if using just a single Kanthal coil?
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Can you put up a screenshot from Device Monitor while firing at 80 watts?
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Glad you are learning more about the DNA technology....preheats can also be set in profiles.... there is a learning curve using DNA stuff so don't get discouraged....
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dwcraig1 gave you the work-around to "force it".....profiles can be set many ways.... what you are seeing is not a calibration problem but a user problem... refinement works as designed, locking resistance works as designed, and so does setting up a profile works as designed.....
Mac Suppport
in EScribe, Software and Firmware
Posted
I thought Apple had to approve the software tho....??