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retird

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Posts posted by retird

  1. 2005LGTL said:

    It's the charger port. Stupid ass that I am I jumped to blaming the manufacturer. I never had this happen to the charger, and they were new batteries so it seemed like the mod could be the only possibility. All the batteries were at 3.8v, and I cycled the batteries through that port until it reproduced the issue of the battery reading full when it wasnt. I'll have to check my battery voltage every cycle now instead of every 3-4 days. It was confusing because the mod worked, if one sled lost connection I would think it would have been DOA. So good deal thank you for the kick in the ass. Currently puffing on a Mason 30mm with single 20ga/8 wraps at .35 ohms and some 3mg pancake man!



    Good deal.......  puzzled me too when it would vape but not discharge the one battery.

    Enjoy....  :thumb:

     
  2. 2005LGTL said:

    I'm sorry I'm new to the DNA chip, and the manual doesn't say anything other than how to lock and.unlock the device, and change modes. Let me search for more advanced info and I'll get back here with what you asked me for.



    OK..... If you want you can just vape the device and when the battery meter on the device  gets to about 3/4 full or so you can remove the batteries and use a multimeter to check the voltage of each battery.  Post your results.  Also could it be a faulty charger giving a false reading.  Is the battery that shows full always plugged into the same charger in the same slot? Does changing the batteries around in the charger make any difference?  




  3. Karsten said:

    Happy to report that after going through both the one-step and all-at-once the DNA200 is performing flawlessly. So, it was either two bad boards in a row or one bad board that was just restored and sent back. Either way the guys at Evolv were great. While it would've been nice to have known what the issue was, it's not a requirement and I'm still a happy user.



    THX for the update..... enjoy
  4. Don't consider this a bug but just posting what occurred as it's the first I've seen this and don't recall any posts similar to this either.

    So I was out and about with a 75.  I always  lock it before pocketing the device.  5 clicks brought up a scrambled screen never seen before.  Thought to myself "this is strange".  5 clicks to unlock and scrambled screen again.  DNA75 works and vapes normally and no scrambled screen at all unless I 5 click to lock/unlock.  Used it for 5 hours, while out and about.  

    Returned to the house and still 5 click scramble so I went to EScribe with it.  It would not connect to EScribe whether locked or unlocked.  Still vapes normally with all menu presses working normally except 5 click scramble.  Only thought was that the 75 got confused so I pulled the battery and put it back (hard reset).  All is well again.......  this device is a reference device used during beta testing and has been flawless.  I'm thinking the board got confused somehow but will monitor it and update if it does this again....  While I had the battery out I looked around the inside and saw nothing unusual and no liquid anywhere in the device. Ribbon cable placement not an issue either.  

    Just noting this one time event.....

  5. dwcraig1 said:

    Here also, depending on shipping charges they may be a bit less than Amazon.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/PortaPow-Specialised-3-3ft-20AWG-Charge-Only-Micro-USB-Cable-2-Pack-New-/282068762006?hash=item41ac9bbd96:g:P~oAAOSwepJXYQK7



    THX for that.... I love PayPal and free shipping...... off to ebay I go...... 2 for 15 bucks ain't bad.... :thumb:
  6. HolmanGT said:



    retird,

    Thanks for thinking of me, I did see that.

    Two things to say it is about time VS got the display off the bottom (some people get a little angry when looking at the display only to find that their tank has emptied on to their lap) and the price is right.

    Now for the complaint, If I buy one more DNA Mod I may have to file bankruptcy. :cry:



    Good points...... 

    Hundred and ten bucks won't break the bank but just a slight crack in the bank  :hug:

    My complaint:  I don't need another DNA75 and for years have not "preordered" anything..... till now.... never owned a VS product but they are a solid company IMO so I fudged on my " [nono]  preorder" stance just this one time.... 

    AND at my age the wife just says " go for it.... ya can't take the money with you unless we put it in the casket...."   :D


  7. HolmanGT said:



    That explains your reference to iterations. For us mere mortals it went from "yeah ok" to Holy Poop what kind of black magic did they pull off.

    PS - someday I hope the programmers reveal what they did. Nah! scratch that if I had come up with an algorithm like they have I wouldn't tell my mother. :D



    Pardon my change of subject but I thought you might like to see this....

    http://www.vaporshark.com/switchbox/?redirect_mongo_id=57dc7a14a4d12f1f15000072&utm_source=Springbot&utm_medium=Web&utm_campaign=Email&mc_cid=0e391b9b67&mc_eid=0bd76955b2


  8. bmclaurin said:

    Until someone more knowledgeable than I comes along...I guess that's true, but TBH I've never bothered with that. Just load up the .csv for whatever coil material you're using and vape on. As long as you're using standard TC materials, the .csv's on steam-engine are battle tested, and I've never had a problem with them.

    And when I say "never had a problem with them," I mean that literally. We're talking tens of thousands (probably more) of hits, and never a burnt hit. Not even once. The very few times I've had hits that were obviously too warm, it was not TCR-related; usually it was because
    of a loose leg or maybe an inaccurate cold ohms measurement or something like that.



    There are a lot of folks that have/will run the "Cotton burn test".  Mixed wires may require a trial and error approach (cotton burn test). I never had the need or desire as dry and burnt hits were not/are not even something I experience at all since TC came about.   I don't use mixed wires.  The cotton/water test came about as those using a "new wire", that being Ti, were needing a better TCR than Nickel TCR gave them.  Nickel TCR was the only one available at the time as I recall.

    I too guess the cotton burn test is true and also seek some knowledgeable/scientific explanation. Just two quick questions come to mind. Cotton of any kind/quality all burn at the same degrees F?  At what humidity level is that true/untrue, or put a different way, does humidity (moisture content of the cotton) effect the temperature at which cotton will burn?
  9. Heating in that area seems to say there is a connectivity issue.  Is the battery hot if you immediately pull it out?  The case/battery cap is the ground path... The design of the cap makes the contact screw the only connection point at the battery if the screw causes the battery to not contact the cap, but just the screw.

  10. antyac2108 said:

    Lol no problem I'll post asap



    LOL.... now I have my first cup of coffee...  LOL

    Doing a quick search for amperage rating of usb cables..... looks like the lay person's answer is that "most USB cables should be able to handle 2.1 Amps".

    Ran across this comment made about the subject (I have no idea if this statement is valid but here it is):

    Data cables that allow the device to sync to the computer and transfer files also cause slow charging speed. if you get a cable that's wired just to charge, it will solve this problem. 

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