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Chip efficiency, Battery life


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1 hour ago, Wayneo said:

Gents, I do believe @James was hoping for a 'Device Monitor' from all 3 of you. Ideally it should look like below. The only addition I'll make is if you hover in the middle of a puff it will show details such as battery voltage at that time (see my mouse arrow). @Dieseljesus thanks for finally compairing to your blaze, and could you swap boro and battery again.

Edit: And if you go to settings on your mod and click(fire button) at the top, it will show current puffs and firmware (also requested for all 3 of you).

Screen Shot 2024-07-26 at 6.56.47 AM.png

I can supply more data from escribe later when I'm not on the road. Until then here's my firmware and puffs:

SAN DNA80C:

PUFFS: 510

FIRMWARE: 78

----

BLAZE DNA80C:

PUFFS: 255

FIRMWARE: 78

---

I can't really count the times I've changed battery on these and especially the San. 15? 20? I know it's up there because I was at my summerhouse with 10+ batteries and they lasted just a few days. Now I'm on another trip and the trip up to this place which was 3 hrs took 2 batteries itself. It's like @EagleRock says, it feels like you get 30,40 or 50 puffs from a battery max. That's why I'm not using the San anymore while I'm here and only the blaze now since it seems to be more battery efficient.

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It appears to me that your not supplying the board with the needed power. Could be a number of things, weak battery, poor battery coonection to battery contacts, ect. 3.29 volts drop on a full charge cell is a problem.

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image.thumb.png.d7e9aa517e411f86b0236b4619a6db4d.png

Here´s my data. I hope i did it correctly. It was a quite new battery. I believe i got this early July. Freshly charged. Popped it in and did a test with 6 puffs. First i did 3 puffs, screenshotted and i didnt get a volt reading because i forgot to point the mouse (around 3 volts for every puff). Thats when it showed 93% after 3 puffs... did three more, screenshotted and also screenshotted the battery level which is now down to 86%. 6 puffs apparenty takes 14% which makes sense with the 30-50 puffs me and @EagleRock have been noticing.

Tell me if you need any more data.

image.png

image.png

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2 hours ago, Dieseljesus said:

I'm usually running 0.20 and 0.15 on 55-75w on both the San, blaze and Stubby. No boost.

Ok. I'll crank it up and test again.

2 hours ago, EagleRock said:

Hi Bill,

no boost here.

Asking about your results. Do you mean you got 768 puffs from 3ml of liquid?? I have had the San for 3 weeks and buff count only shows 1653 and i must have used over 50ml.

Yes, even 949 puffs from 3ml in one example above. The secret is to under wattage high wattage coils and builds. I don't think you can do it overnight and be satisfied. You got to inch downwards overtime I believe. 1653 puffs with 50ml of juice used? That is 33 puffs per ml. It's possible. The lowest I ever got was 20 puffs per ml with a 28mm RDA. Professional cloud chasers are vaping even much lower. Although 33 puffs on a boro? Yeah I don't think so. Don't worry you are not going nuts. For at least 9 years now (every DNA device with a puff counter) doesn't count every puff under removing battery conditions (charging batteries in the mod works fine). I really need to talk to John & Steve about this. But I might not be able to talk about it after I do.

2 hours ago, EagleRock said:

Ill count how many buffs do i get with mine with a fresh battery but im thinking it is less than 50.

Check the puff count after you replaced the battery and check it again before swapping batteries and that is the actual count. Don't trust the count after you replace the battery as the count is likely lower than before you swapped batteries.

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27 minutes ago, dwcraig1 said:

It appears to me that your not supplying the board with the needed power. Could be a number of things, weak battery, poor battery coonection to battery contacts, ect. 3.29 volts drop on a full charge cell is a problem.

My battery was half full when i did this. As mentioned it is 3 weeks old molicel p30b bought from a reputable local shop. The wheel on the negative terminal is tight.

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Gents, couple things. You can actually include/show MORE vertical lines in Device Monitor. The 1st is just a click, subsequent (on a Mac) are a 'control' click. It's good showing a before puff. Sample below.

What I didn't mention before is the battery used for my screenshot (.7v drop at 35 watts) is from heavily used Sony VTC5 with a dented positive (from this mod).

 

Screen Shot 2024-07-26 at 9.09.42 AM.png

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On 7/23/2024 at 12:56 PM, intel said:

Also my device refuses to charge when using a quickcharge charger that also supports normal 5V 2A charging,

@intel, @James asked this.

20 hours ago, James said:

Also what brand/model of quick charger are you having problems with?

 

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I was going to post this yesterday morning but changed my mind, well I decided to go ahead and post it. This is after one full tank and starting a 2nd tank on the same Samsung 20S 18650 (2000mAh, 30 amp).

The voltage drop on the 2nd firing is 3.40 volts. 35 watts with 2 boost and 2 warmth. Standing voltage taken with meter after this was 3.65 volts. The 1st puff here is Rplay on, 

Screenshot 2024-07-25 063446 80c.png

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20 minutes ago, dwcraig1 said:

I was going to post this yesterday morning but changed my mind, well I decided to go ahead and post it. This is after one full tank and starting a 2nd tank on the same Samsung 20S 18650 (2000mAh, 30 amp).

The voltage drop on the 2nd firing is 3.40 volts. 35 watts with 2 boost and 2 warmth. Standing voltage taken with meter after this was 3.65 volts. The 1st puff here is Rplay on, 

Screenshot 2024-07-25 063446 80c.png

Was it also the San? Does this mean that we have some defect in our units?

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One thing that I would be looking if I did indeed have one would be that top plate on the mod. That plate grounds the battery to the chassis, check to see if screws are tight. Most likely the 3 screws that hold the board into the chassis provide the ground for the board, check to see if those are tight. Remove cell before trying to tighten that bottom screw.

Do this only if you are comfortable doing so.

It doesn't appear as easy to get to the boards screws like on mine.

board screws.jpg

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23 hours ago, James said:

Would you mind taking a screenshot of Device Monitor while you are taking a puff? logging Battery Voltage and Power at least (Wondering if it could be voltage drop on the battery connector, loaded vs unloaded voltage.) Are you noticing power drop off during firing, or is it showing a low battery percentage as well?

Would you post your settings .ecig file please? (Just to see if it differs in any important way.)

Also what brand/model of quick charger are you having problems with?

Thanks!

Sorry about not stating charger before, did not notice.

It is a normal samsung quickcharge charger, genuine, came with a phone.

Its 9V 1.67A and 5V 2A

My screen says its charging when plugged in but the battery level never increases

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@intel, what does it show for USB Voltage when you plug it in? Would you mind taking a photo of the information on the charger? I just bought a new Samsung phone this week actually, and it didn't come with a charger. (It uses USB-C, so they evidently expect me to buy my own.) If I know specifics I'll buy one and fix it if possible.

@EagleRock, a 1V drop is quite large. *If* the battery itself can handle the current, it's worth looking at how the battery is contacting. A full battery will be at 4.2V. If at your desired power level you hit 3.2V under load, that's a 1V drop much of which is likely resistive due to the battery contact.  But that also means you'll hit Weak Battery (3V) when the battery is at 4.0V or so, when the battery actually has about 80% of its capacity left. If the battery itself can't handle the current that's a different problem, but if it can, that's very likely where your problem lies.

(The oscillation screenshot strongly suggests a dicey connection. The charger oscillates like that if a battery isn't even connected. It could very well be that it's barely contacting, and it warms up and makes slightly better but still bad contact.)

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3 hours ago, James said:

@intel, what does it show for USB Voltage when you plug it in? Would you mind taking a photo of the information on the charger? I just bought a new Samsung phone this week actually, and it didn't come with a charger. (It uses USB-C, so they evidently expect me to buy my own.) If I know specifics I'll buy one and fix it if possible.

@EagleRock, a 1V drop is quite large. *If* the battery itself can handle the current, it's worth looking at how the battery is contacting. A full battery will be at 4.2V. If at your desired power level you hit 3.2V under load, that's a 1V drop much of which is likely resistive due to the battery contact.  But that also means you'll hit Weak Battery (3V) when the battery is at 4.0V or so, when the battery actually has about 80% of its capacity left. If the battery itself can't handle the current that's a different problem, but if it can, that's very likely where your problem lies.

(The oscillation screenshot strongly suggests a dicey connection. The charger oscillates like that if a battery isn't even connected. It could very well be that it's barely contacting, and it warms up and makes slightly better but still bad contact.)

I believe I hit 3 volts as well with a pretty new battery.. Lowest was 2.99 when I took a puff

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Posted (edited)
19 hours ago, James said:

@intel, what does it show for USB Voltage when you plug it in? Would you mind taking a photo of the information on the charger? I just bought a new Samsung phone this week actually, and it didn't come with a charger. (It uses USB-C, so they evidently expect me to buy my own.) If I know specifics I'll buy one and fix it if possible.

@EagleRock, a 1V drop is quite large. *If* the battery itself can handle the current, it's worth looking at how the battery is contacting. A full battery will be at 4.2V. If at your desired power level you hit 3.2V under load, that's a 1V drop much of which is likely resistive due to the battery contact.  But that also means you'll hit Weak Battery (3V) when the battery is at 4.0V or so, when the battery actually has about 80% of its capacity left. If the battery itself can't handle the current that's a different problem, but if it can, that's very likely where your problem lies.

(The oscillation screenshot strongly suggests a dicey connection. The charger oscillates like that if a battery isn't even connected. It could very well be that it's barely contacting, and it warms up and makes slightly better but still bad contact.)

 

Here is device monitor with the vape plugged into my laptop, also attached pictures of charger. I can't measure anything with the charger plugged in, would be willing to sacrifice an usb-c cable, but I am travelling and don't have a multimeter here. 

20240727_171543.jpg

20240727_171606.jpg

EScribe_wMs2opghmw.png

Edited by intel
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On 7/26/2024 at 7:57 AM, BillW50 said:

Ok. I'll crank it up and test again.

SAN DNA80C AIO #108 Firmware SP78
BATT#1 RPY 20w 768 puffs 3.46v 3ml
BATT#2 PWR 18w 949 puffs 3.39v 3ml

SAN DNA80C AIO #108 Firmware SP78
BATT#1 PWR 35w 548 puffs 3.45v 4ml
BATT#2 PWR 40w 578 puffs 3.39v 4ml

I used Samsung 25R cells for all of my tests. I also tried to get that coil higher in wattage, but at 45 watts it was dry hitting too much. Vandy Vape VVC-15 (SS316L) are rated for 35-60w. Hopefully I'll get a chance this weekend to do a build that will be able to handle 60 watts.

Anyways I am not seeing any short battery life using a San DNA80C. It looks respectable to me. The battery level bar does drop too fast and it seems to show empty when you have about 40% capacity left. That might be by design, I dunno. And when the battery is really empty and the weak battery shows up on the screen, It keeps firing if you want. But you can tell the wattage is dropping.

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On 7/26/2024 at 5:52 PM, dwcraig1 said:

One thing that I would be looking if I did indeed have one would be that top plate on the mod. That plate grounds the battery to the chassis, check to see if screws are tight. Most likely the 3 screws that hold the board into the chassis provide the ground for the board, check to see if those are tight. Remove cell before trying to tighten that bottom screw.

Do this only if you are comfortable doing so.

It doesn't appear as easy to get to the boards screws like on mine.

board screws.jpg

Ill take tighten those screws today and test with a new battery.

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