Why is the DNA 250C not behaving properly?

[sotirone]

There are multiple reports on the forum but they mostly seem to come from people not experienced with the DNA devices andas such they are getting little to no attention, or sh**** answers like "your build is wrong".

 

I consider myself a DNA 'veteran'. I have gone through a DNA 40, a 200, a 250 and now a 250C.

 

I just got delivery of my Lost Vape Triade 250C yesterday and this thing is not working properly.

 

First of all, I am having the much talked about Temp Protect problem. every fourth or fifth time I grab the device and try to vape, I instantly get the Temp Protect or whatever it is called error. Letting off the button and pressing it again leads to the mod firing properly.

Also, every once in a while I get Temp Protect while vaping and the power cuts off completely. That is especially annoying and not related to wicking or resistance stability of the atomizers but it is 100% a DNA hardware or firmware problem.

 

Now onto my other most annoying issue that many people have reported but gets easily overlooked.

 

Something is definitely wrong with TC on this device. I checked the soldering and it looks immaculate. My coils are very solidly mounted on my atomizers. Going back and forth between my Lost Vape Triade 250 and 250C with the same atomizers, same coils, same wicks, same resistance of said coils after they have cooled down, same batteries and same 316L CSVs from both evolv, steam engine and lightning vapes, I get two extremely different vapes. It is mostly apparent with my Innokin Ares  where the 250 works perfectly between 430-450F, but the 250C needs anything from 470-530F to give me the same experience. Also, checking the Puff Info menu on the device with my Kaees Solomon 2, I get 25W for one puff, 35 for another, 40+ when it is a satisfying vape, all of them with the same resistance, after some cool down time, same temperature settings and more or less same puff duration. This thing is just so inconsistent.

 

I tried messing around with the settings in Escribe, trying different thermal profile settings and even the same with the 250 triade but to no avail. I haven't had a chance to run the Case Analyzer yet because my batteries where charged.

 

I am running 1.2 SP5 on the DNA 250 and 1.1 SP35 INT on the DNA 250C.

 

One other thing I would like to mention. People need to stop hating on Lost Vape for these problems. The 250C Triade looks much better built than the 250 in every way both inside and out. I can definitely see they have learned from the mistakes by changing the button mounting method from metal clips that used to break on the 250 to silicone-like retainers. This tells me that Lost Vape are trying to improve and these problems are not due to Lost Vape's quality control but due to Evolv's firmware.

 

I would like some answers from an Evolv spokesperson to these questions:

 

1. Have these problems been identified?

 

2. Are you trying to fix them in any way?

 

3. Can we do anything to help? Can we provide you with data in any way?

Edited November 14, 2018 by sotirone

[Wayneo]

You can get an official answer here.

https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/?a=add

For Question 2, there's a firmware (SP38) you can try in the thread called "Throttling" right here in this DNA 250 Color - General Discussion area. Right now on my browser, it's on Page 4 posted by James. 

Welcome 

[Ray_of_Light62]

I would like to add my experience with "Temp protect" error. 

It happens more often when the wick of my RTA (mostly Berserker and Ammit MTL) is too stuffed and prone to dry hits when in power mode. 

There is no error until the wick is saturated. When the wick dry out, the device applies too much power for the diminished wetness, and it stops with the error. 

Then I diminish the max power, and the device seems to retrain on the new power-temperature relationship. 

In any case, I can stop the "Temp protect" error by simply releasing vacuum in the tank, unscrewing the fill cap. But, it is the wrong way to vape. 

When I build to avoid dry hits in power mode, and conseguently "Temp protect" errors in TC mode, the tank will leak in few hours or few days at best.

Especially when you change e-liquid composition. 

Hope this helps, 

Edited January 4, 2019 by Ray_of_Light62

[greg q]

Hi Ray

Forgive me for a silly question , i cannot find any information for TC settings on the internet and how to adjust it,  , i have a Ammit MTL and on TC for stainless steel setting i have the wattage at 20 watts and temperature at 200 degrees Celsius. not much vape comes out but cuts out at over temperature protection warning alarm, heaps of vape comes out on wattage setting  , should the wattage be increased to  60 watts and adjust temperature settings from that setting, using a 1 ohm coil, When it is on the SS setting it reads 1 ohm but from other photos on Facebook pages the resistance is much lower. When on SS should the resistance reading be different as compared to wattage setting as it stays the same. The 250c just does wattage and temperature control is this correct , thanks Bud   

Edited January 8, 2019 by greg q

[Lanzarotechris]

@greg q

Well, your first statement is quite strange, because when I search for "temperature control" or "TC" or "temp control" on the internet I get millions of hits, and lots of them include "Guide to TC", "Explanation of TC" "How TC works", and so on.

And no, you don't have to read all of them as they mostly explain the same ;-)

Its also not advisable to look on FB for photos of other peoples coil measurements... except when they have used YOUR coil.

When you have poor vapor and the temp protection jumps in at 200°C, then I would guess your wick is dry.

The resistance will not change when you switch from wattage to TC, as it has nothing to do with these settings.

Its the resistance of your coil, so the reading should be identical as long as you use that coil.

The last question I do not really understand... the 250C does wattage and TC mode... what else do you expect ?

[BillW50]

On 11/14/2018 at 3:57 AM, sotirone said:

First of all, I am having the much talked about Temp Protect problem. every fourth or fifth time I grab the device and try to vape, I instantly get the Temp Protect or whatever it is called error. Letting off the button and pressing it again leads to the mod firing properly.

I've seen this when the wire material doesn't match the coil(s). And you also mention SS316L. Man, there is no such thing as the right CSV for all 316L. That wire is an alloy. And every manufacture and even lot is going to require a tweak to the CSV file to get it right on. And it sounds like you are not using SS316L with nickel legs, but even that can throw everything off by 25%. You sure picked the most difficult wire type to do TC with. You can get it right, but you are going to have to roll up your sleeves and do some tweaking. Sure you can buy SS316L from one manufacture and download a CSV file and it might be bang dead on. But that is the exception rather than the rule.

[Lanzarotechris]

@BillW50

Actually SS316 is quite an industry standard, so the differences in the alloy mixture are / (should be) minor.

Of course there are more or less "questionable" manufacturers... not only in china.

Thats a problem with capitalism... if you can make an extra cent by choosing cheaper material some will do it for the profit.

But you can say that about every material we use in vaping I guess. How will you proof that your kanthal or your titanium is pure/within the standard ?

So just don't buy the cheapest stuff there is, and maybe choose some well known manufacturer.

The other thing is: when your (DNA) mod shows your the ohms, then you can expect it to be accurate.

And if some SS316 changes the resistance within 100 °C temp difference at some 4th or 5th digit after the commata isn't really changing anything.

So the standard CSVs from Steam Engine for example should still create the proper results.

If the differences are really that big, then you should probably change your dealer for the wire.

As we are vaping within a small window of about 150-250 °C the result should not be that different, except you have a really bad or fautly wire or a really messed-up CSV.

At least I have never experienced any big differences with my wires/CSVs. There is a difference when switching to another mod, but thats related to the chipset I assume.

Like the big difference between my old Therion 75 and the new Triade 250C.