rONin Posted November 28, 2017 Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 Hello guys, I need some help with my HCigar VT 167, I have just notice while vaping the temperature message reads just "OFF", the resistance stays at 0.24 ohms I'm using SS316L Fused claptons 26*3+38 4 wraps 2.5mm diameter inner core. I used the SS316L material profile from here. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rONin Posted November 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 I built a new coil using the same wire with 1 less wrap... Still saying "OFF" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayneo Posted November 28, 2017 Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 (edited) It's gotta be a connection issue ........... somewhere. Either in a dirty 510 or connector, or a loose 510 pin, or hotspots in your coil. Can you space (if it's a contact coil) slightly and retry? Even with just a single coil to prove to yourself it works. And don't lock the ohms And welcome Edited November 28, 2017 by Wayneo Don't lock the ohms in Profile 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rONin Posted November 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 (edited) 13 minutes ago, Wayneo said: It's gotta be a connection issue ........... somewhere. Either in a dirty 510 or connector, or a loose 510 pin, or hotspots in your coil. Can you space (if it's a contact coil) slightly and retry? Even with just a single coil to prove to yourself it works. And welcome yes sir I just tried a .5 ohm ss316l 26awg tank and it works fine. Edited November 28, 2017 by rONin attached screenshot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayneo Posted November 28, 2017 Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 Remember that your coils need to be as close to identical as possible. I use both contact and spaced fused claptons, but you gotta make sure your connections are tight (not Superman tight) and no hotspots. Overall, I'm team spaced. Enjoy your mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rONin Posted November 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 (edited) 12 minutes ago, Wayneo said: Remember that your coils need to be as close to identical as possible. I use both contact and spaced fused claptons, but you gotta make sure your connections are tight (not Superman tight) and no hotspots. Overall, I'm team spaced. Enjoy your mod. I use spaced coils sir, I lowered the power and used the default profile and this is what I have. Is this working right? I also don't dry burn SS316L as I have heard that it could be dangerous. Edited November 28, 2017 by rONin additional info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayneo Posted November 28, 2017 Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 1 minute ago, rONin said: .......... Is this working right? Unfortunately, no it's not working right. If you look at this graph, that pinkish line, your cold ohms is a solid line (good), but you don't see the live ohms line raising (like you do in the prior .5 printscreen) well a rise of .003 is not enough. Is it at ambient/room temperature? Go use that .5 coil for a bit, and come back to this one. The initial settings looked fine, don't change anything during troubleshooting as it changes your known state. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rONin Posted November 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 (edited) The 0.5 ohm coil is on a single spaced coil RTA sir and the 0.18 is a single coil spaced fused clapton a RDA. Should I replace the coil on the RDA? and yes sir It is room temperature. Edited November 28, 2017 by rONin more info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayneo Posted November 28, 2017 Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 I only have a few RDA's, so I assume the 510 positive pin is one solid structure, making a good connection. Either try that coil on another RDA, or try a different known wire(material) on this RDA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rONin Posted November 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 (edited) 30 minutes ago, Wayneo said: I only have a few RDA's, so I assume the 510 positive pin is one solid structure, making a good connection. Either try that coil on another RDA, or try a different known wire(material) on this RDA. Here sir I used a coil master ss316L 26 awg round wire on the RDA. Edited November 28, 2017 by rONin formatting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retird Posted November 28, 2017 Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 @Wayneo has guided you on the right track.... that screen shot looks a lot better and temp is working.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rONin Posted November 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 10 minutes ago, retird said: @Wayneo has guided you on the right track.... that screen shot looks a lot better and temp is working.... Yes sir but I lost a lot of flavor from using the fused clapton. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayneo Posted November 28, 2017 Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 Hey @rONin, couple things fellow vaper. I appreciate your Printscreen's. 52 minutes ago, rONin said: ... lost a lot of flavor from using the fused clapton I can understand that. At this point we're down to your wire in the fused clapton, or your build that's the issue. IF YOU built that clapton with the same wire in your latest Printscreen, it should work as well as the Printscreen with simple wire. I notice you also went and increased the watts in this Printscreen, without telling us of any other changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rONin Posted November 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 I'm sorry Sir about not telling you about the change in power, I assumed that I had to change the wattage from using a round wire to a fused clapton. I didn't make the wire, I bought it from here. I thank you for your patience. I'm a beginner vaper of roughly 2 months and I just want to get the best experience from vaping. I tried another wire with 2 cores, at first the vape was hot yet the temperature doesn't reach the set temperature. I removed the wick and I pulsed it red to check. Then rewicked it. I've been doing round wires without pulsing them without problems. I should maybe dry fire the fused claptons? But they said not to dry fire SS316L. I have this screenshot after I had rested the coil for a few minutes and locked the resistance, I also changed the Temperature and the wattage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayneo Posted November 28, 2017 Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 Hey Ronin, we were all new once, no worries "I assumed that I had to change the wattage from using a round wire to a fused clapton" <- Typically yes. I have used that "Demon Killer" and had to fudge my TCR in order for it to work for their "316 Notch" coils. "I tried another wire with 2 cores, at first the vape was hot yet the temperature doesn't reach the set temperature. I removed the wick and I pulsed it red to check. Then rewicked it." <- We'd need more details on that 2 core wire. With SS you only need a dull glow to Red. I glow all my SS to Red from 10-25watts, spaced, contact, plain, or fused. "I should maybe dry fire the fused claptons?" <- If you mean pulse, I do with every coil, every wire type. "after I had rested the coil for a few minutes and locked the resistance, I also changed the Temperature and the wattage." <- Great Printscreen showing it working again. What wire was that? Single, dual or triple core. For the 2nd time, You only need to lock the resistance if you have a wonky atomizer, or build. By locking the resistance, you defeat/disable 'refinement' which is the Evolv magic sauce. Page 7 of the Datasheet. This is one of the best Temperature guessing boards on the market. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rONin Posted November 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2017 8 hours ago, Wayneo said: I have used that "Demon Killer" and had to fudge my TCR in order for it to work for their "316 Notch" coils. Could you elaborate on this sir? 8 hours ago, Wayneo said: "I tried another wire with 2 cores, at first the vape was hot yet the temperature doesn't reach the set temperature. I removed the wick and I pulsed it red to check. Then rewicked it." <- We'd need more details on that 2 core wire. With SS you only need a dull glow to Red. I glow all my SS to Red from 10-25watts, spaced, contact, plain, or fused. It's still the same brand only with 2 cores instead of 3. 8 hours ago, Wayneo said: For the 2nd time, You only need to lock the resistance if you have a wonky atomizer, or build. By locking the resistance, you defeat/disable 'refinement' which is the Evolv magic sauce. Page 7 of the Datasheet. This is one of the best Temperature guessing boards on the market. I've read from somewhere or heard from here @ 23:44 to lock the resistance so I assumed it is the proper way. Anyway, I'll leave it unlocked from now on. Again, thank you sir for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayneo Posted November 29, 2017 Report Share Posted November 29, 2017 (edited) My Demon Killer Notch coils would work in TC, but I had to turn the temperature up way high like ~150°F for it to feel like my usual temp, so instead of the displaying 420°F it would show 570°F. So I loaded up like 6 new wire profiles (TCR values) each increasing on the mod. Couple hits, next profile, couple hits, next profile, till I felt I was in the right ballpark, where the temp in my mouth matched the display. (Funnily enough it was @retird who worked with me and said I wasn't crazy, and I coined it some wrong Nursery rhyme (Little red riding hood) method) Followed up with a Cotton burn test, now that I was in the right zone, for final tweaking. If you go watch that video again, you only took away what you wanted to hear. He said for accuracy don't lock. If you want consistency because you're getting blown out ... lock. I'd say fix your build. He also mentioned 'refinement'. I only needed to lock for 1 atty ever. Edited November 29, 2017 by Wayneo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rONin Posted November 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2017 1 hour ago, Wayneo said: My Demon Killer Notch coils would work in TC, but I had to turn the temperature up way high like ~150°F for it to feel like my usual temp, so instead of the displaying 420°F it would show 570°F. So I loaded up like 6 new wire profiles (TCR values) each increasing on the mod. Couple hits, next profile, couple hits, next profile, till I felt I was in the right ballpark, where the temp in my mouth matched the display. (Funnily enough it was @retird who worked with me and said I wasn't crazy, and I coined it some wrong Nursery rhyme (Little red riding hood) method) Followed up with a Cotton burn test, now that I was in the right zone, for final tweaking. If you go watch that video again, you only took away what you wanted to hear. He said for accuracy don't lock. If you want consistency because you're getting blown out ... lock. I'd say fix your build. He also mentioned 'refinement'. I only needed to lock for 1 atty ever. Got it sir anyway, I heard DJLSB say "stable vape" and "same exact vape experience" so I thought that was the way to go. Again sir, thanks for your time and patience and maybe try that triple core again sometime but not soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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