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Temp Protect and How to Add Wire Types


Anthony Alms

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Brand new to DNA boards. Much more familiar with HT fsk, but I'm really enjoying what I'm seeing with the escribe software.

Two questions. 

I make coils and have been using SS 316l in anticipation of using the DNA. Problem is that I keep getting a "Temp Protect" message and the mod won't fire. 

Other question is, how do I add NiCh80 to the wire types? I use NiCh80, 316l and kanthal. Never even heard of Nifethal 30. Basically the mod is only usable with SS as far as TC goes, and even then it's barely usable. 

Thanks guys, I know there is a whole lot to learn. Pretty much why I am excited to try this new (to me) board. 

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I do not own a 75C, so these are some thoughts.

35 minutes ago, Anthony Alms said:

... SS 316l in anticipation of using the DNA. Problem is that I keep getting a "Temp Protect" message and the mod won't fire. 

Have you updated the firmware to the latest version?

43 minutes ago, Anthony Alms said:

how do I add NiCh80 to the wire types? I use NiCh80, 316l and kanthal

N80 has too low of a TCR to be used for Temp vaping. Only watts/power mode. BUT, if it could, Material Tab, left window and import it in or create a new TCR value material and name it. Right arrow to put it on the mod. Upload settings to Device.

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4 hours ago, Wayneo said:

Can you describe your build?

Are you making sure your coil has reached ambient temp before using on the mod, and checked all the connections are tight.

I never owned an FSK mod, but on DNA's you should NOT need to lock the resistance normally 

Sure. The atomizer is a single coil 22mm called the Oumier Wasp Nano. Excellent atty btw. Build is all 316l. 3x25g cores, 36g alien wrap. 3mm, 7 wrap. 0.14ohms

Second atty is a goon v1.5 clone. 

The build is a Staggered Fused Clapton. Two cores, spaced clapton wrap, parallel and fused together with the same wire used to clapton the cores. All wire is 316l. 2x24g cores, clapton'd with 36g. Fused with 36g. 3mm, 8 wrap, 0.14ohms

Both exhibit the same problem. Is it possible that I'm building too low? I haven't looked at the restrictions on the mod but I would be surprised to hear that it can't properly fire these builds. 

I did check to make sure everything was tight. I always do after dry firing. And yes, the attys (and coils) were placed while at room temperature. 

You have the option of locking resistance on the Wrecker and Slice but HT highly recommends that you don't. I believe it has to do with disabling battery saving features though. Thank you for letting me know about the locking feature on the DNA board, I wasn't aware of that at all. 

Regarding the availabile wire types. When I look at what is available there are like 3 options (if I remember correctly, I don't have my laptop with me) and all of them are already installed. There are a couple of wire types on the LV mod that aren't in the list. How is that? Can I import wire types from somewhere? 

Thanks! 

17 minutes ago, EGO 13 said:

Hi this arrived to one of my vt75  ...I had rhe same problème with ss316, titanium ,ect .

I just desactived the Control TC via Escribe ... And now evrything is ok . lol. :)

 

escribe.jpg

That's a bit extreme for me! Nah I'll continue to monkey with it until I figure it out. :)

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IMG_20171021_042820.jpg

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1 minute ago, EGO 13 said:

You' r wellcome ... when I see your coil I imagine  you are very very low with ohm :)

Those are 0.14ohms.  I run dual coils at .05ohms in temperature control on my Wrecker all the time. :) I think the fsk board is grossly overlooked. I think it would have been a smashing success if they had had a clue about designing something "cool" rather than something slightly bizarre. I can see a squonker single 21700 battery mod running 100 watts using the board from the Slice (single 26650). Done correctly (rename the board while you're at it!) and it could be an icon. 

Sorry, back to the topic at hand. :)

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Well I use TC primarily for the savings in power. I've had enough dry hits to know when I need to drip or squonk! I don't worry about burning my cotton. I don't have an understanding of how much battery is saved using TC versus Watts. If it's negligible I don't see a reason to use TC at all. 

It's morning here in California, but I worked all night. It's my bedtime. ;)

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3 hours ago, Anthony Alms said:

Oumier Wasp Nano. Excellent atty btw

I have the solid Black. Hadaly now sits. My only issues are juice pools on top of the clamping/airflow an underside of the cap. Usually 2x28/40g SS. .2-.4Ω Next up will be a Ti01 build to see if it decreases the pooling.

3 hours ago, Anthony Alms said:

Is it possible that I'm building too low?

Definitely not, and just the opposite. Therions before the 'C" version had a ~6v ouput voltage limit.

3 hours ago, Anthony Alms said:

Can I import wire types from somewhere?

Yes. Steam-engine (wire wizard). You can either dowload a TFR, or TCR then import on the Materials tab. 

I'd suggest you download a new version of 316L from there, but name it like 316X. Change all your profiles the X. Delete old 316 profile. Upload settings to Mod. Start with a preheat of 100W, say 55W regular. If that works, we can fine tune it.

Can you do a Device Monitor like the one below (while firing) , with exactly the same checkboxes highlighted. Temp less than 500F, or whatever you think you're accustomed to.

 

Edited by Wayneo
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3 hours ago, Anthony Alms said:

You have the option of locking resistance on the Wrecker and Slice but HT highly recommends that you don't. I believe it has to do with disabling battery saving features though. Thank you for letting me know about the locking feature on the DNA board, I wasn't aware of that at all. 

On the DNA, there's a feature called refinement, which (based on a couple factors) will interpolate what the resistance would be at 70F. Once your mod fires it could take up to 30 minutes for it to have that refined value. Or when waking up from a dead sleep. That refined value will not change much. Maybe +/- .01 and will NOT change on your mod while firing.

If you're a fan of the FSK, get a spare while you still can. They're now a part of Indonesia Chemistry. No more mods.

You should be able to run your .05's on this box also, but you'd have to check on steam-engine, knowing all 4 constraints. Current (Amp) limit and output voltage for your particular board. Page 1 of datasheet.

On Device Monitor, you can see the exact watts required to maintain the temp you set (green lines)

Oh yeah, welcome :hand_splayed:

Edited by Wayneo
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If the puff is cutting off from Temp Protected, as opposed to lowering the power, that indicates it is measuring a temperature over 800F.

Make sure your board's ground screws are not loose. This can cause resistance to shift significantly when firing at power vs. measuring resistance.

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Wayne, I'll have to read this a few dozen times. :) I'm good at picking stuff up, but I don't have a very good foundation of knowledge to work off of. I think some reading on the basics is in order. That said, I love being able to go back and have things click. I'll definitely be doing that in this case. 

James, thank you. The board is indeed going straight to not firing. It's not throttling back like TC does with a dry cotton. One of the first things I did (after reading about incorrect resistance readings on the LV mod) was to check resistance on a few builds using the fsk and then Therion. The readings were uncannily accurate. 

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Btw Wayne, I just got a shipment of wire in. Several hundred feet of wire sizes 24 to 30. Unfortunately the thinnest wire I have is 36g. Maybe I can fuse two 30g with 36g and see what I get. I think I'll go try that now. 

All black? Lucky! I wanted the one I got, but that all black one looks dope. I like the multi-colored ones they have now as well. I really may buy a few in the end. 

I bought the Slice because I planned on harvesting the 101w board to use with a single 2x700 battery but I've fallen in love with the mod. That happened quickly. Someone somewhere said that you can buy the board alone much like the DNA. Only thing is, the mods are so cheap now I doubt you could get the board for less. Yeah... I'm gonna need to grab some more. 

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3 hours ago, Anthony Alms said:

Btw Wayne, I just got a shipment of wire in. Several hundred feet of wire sizes 24 to 30. Unfortunately the thinnest wire I have is 36g. Maybe I can fuse two 30g with 36g and see what I get. I think I'll go try that now. 

Not sure what this was in relation to, but great. Just in case TCR/TFR only relate to Material type. It does not change due to ID, or wraps, etc.

3 hours ago, Anthony Alms said:

Someone somewhere said that you can buy the board alone much like the DNA

They posted it on their FB page, in the August timeframe. Don't quote me on August, I'm old and Grey

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Haha sorry, I figured you were a builder too. Mostly I just wanted to discuss how I can make a comparable build (the one you describe) using what I've got. 

In any case, I went ahead and made a 3 core fc coil. I'm exhausted so I didn't care when the cores rolled and triangled. 3x28g 36g wrap. Ohms at 0.50 3mm ID, 11 wraps. 

I understand TCR on a very vague level, but I think I assumed that. Thanks for pointing it out. 

I'll have to dig more about available boards. I really want to try my hand at mod making. 

Lastly, just out of curiosity, why does the pooling bother you? Bothers me too, but I figured I was just being anal about it. :) I tend to blow it off the top just because. 

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16 hours ago, Anthony Alms said:

Haha sorry, I figured you were a builder too. Mostly I just wanted to discuss how I can make a comparable build (the one you describe) using what I've got. 

Simply claptons or plain old twisted wire. Single or dual core fused. Never even tried anything fancier. However, I really use steam-engine alot. Wire wizard will allow you to simulate any build. Coil Wizard if you want a specific resistance.

I checked my Wasp. It's a 6 wrap 3.5mm ID spaced so my legs are straight. The pooling bothers me just ... because. I really only use them for flavor or eliquid testing.

"I understand TCR on a very vague level" No worries, SE is a great calculator. Basically it's a number that calculates how much the resistance of a coil will change when heated 1 degree celsius. That's very very simplified but cleaner than a whole bunch of brackets.

That all lines up with why not to lock the resistance of a solid build. Evolv refines your coil resistance displayed value only 'refinement' to what it would be at at 70F and combined with other known info, uses it for TC. TC is nothing more vaping at a set resistance, from a known starting point (70F) and the larger the 'TC Precision' value in Wire Wizard, the easier it is for any mod.

There are other really sharp guys that'll clarify or correct my understanding if it's off.

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This was not from escribe, but shows my battery savings compared to straight watts. 70 watts set as max power

Great coil pics by the way. I tried so hard to get some of my Wasp, but unsteady hands.

Sorry if the pic is massive, I can't be bothered to resize.

 

AmmitTriade battery saving.png

Edited by Wayneo
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