ThatGuySwain Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 (edited) Hello all, as promised, I have taken pictures along with a write up on how to fix the Paranormal that reads ohms too high. The 510 connector on the Paranormal has what I believe is thread lock between the ring where the ground wire is soldered to, and the main body of the connector. thread lock is a non-conductive substance which causes the Ohm readings to be off, However, it is an easy fix. I have included pictures for steps 1-5, after that, it is reassembly so follow steps 3-1 in reverse order. Step1: remove the 3 T5 torx screws that hold the 510 to the body. Step 2: carefully unsolder the ground (black) wire form the outer ring. (take care not to over heat and melt inner insulator ring.) Step 3: using two pair of adjustable jaw pliers, grab the edge of the 510 with one pliers, and the ring that the ground wire was connected to with the other, and unscrew the ring from the 510. (take care to not how the insulator ring goes in.) Step 4: clean out the threads inside the ring and off the threads of the main 510 body. Using a pair of tweezers or small flathead screw driver is a good idea. Step 5: wipe ofF threads with rubbing alcohol or acetone. Step 6: reassemble and tighten down ground ring to main body of 510. Step 7: re-solder the ground wire back to the ring, (don't hold heat on too long or you risk melting insulator ring.) Step 8: line up the 510 and reattach to body with 3 T5 screws. that will bring the ohm reading back to correct readings. Update to this list, this particular paranormal also had a spotty Positive connection, which also is an easy fix with a soldering iron, see last picture for fix. Edit: My test coil is a .29ohm coil for reference. Edited October 12, 2017 by TheSwain 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobbi Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 (edited) Thank you very much for the instructions. Edit: But why de-solder the cable before? Edited October 12, 2017 by Nobbi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThatGuySwain Posted October 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 21 minutes ago, Nobbi said: Thank you very much for the instructions. Edit: But why de-solder the cable before? you need to desolder it so the 510 can spin apart, the ground wire prevents it from spining. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThatGuySwain Posted October 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 7 minutes ago, TheSwain said: you need to desolder it so the 510 can spin apart, the ground wire prevents it from spining. Working on another one, I guess you could get away with not Desoldering as long as you make sure the wires don't twist too tight. but I, personally have better luck just getting the wire out of the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retird Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 hum, maybe LV should use this loctite or none at all: http://www.henkel-adhesives.com/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8802598125569 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThatGuySwain Posted October 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 19 minutes ago, retird said: hum, maybe LV should use this loctite or none at all: http://www.henkel-adhesives.com/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8802598125569 We have brought this issue to their attention, and as far as I know, they have stopped using thread lock altogether. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xian40 Posted October 13, 2017 Report Share Posted October 13, 2017 the thread lock was probably there to secure more the top of the 510 when unscrewing the atomizer because on the lower base ring ( where the 510 is screwed in ), the negative wire is soldered directly on the ring that can spin if the top of the 510 tight enough. but seriously, the top 3 screws is enough for the negative wire to stay there. i cleaned mine, nothing changed. still read resistance higher than 7 others dna mod. i dont have touched the positive soldering. dont know if this is the culprit or the firmware. dont know what to do now. nice looking expensive mod that just dont work correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThatGuySwain Posted October 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2017 13 hours ago, xian40 said: i cleaned mine, nothing changed. still read resistance higher than 7 others dna mod. i dont have touched the positive soldering. dont know if this is the culprit or the firmware. dont know what to do now. nice looking expensive mod that just dont work correctly. It very well could be the positive solder as well, the last 2 paranormals I fixed, were a combination of the thread lock and positive connection. I cleaned the threadlock and tested, it still read high, added a bit of solder to positive ring, it read correctly. I'm not saying this is the Only issue with the resistance issues, but it is the only issue I have found so far. If you can't get it reading properly, open a ticket with Evolv and We'll get it fixed up for you https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotExist Posted October 21, 2017 Report Share Posted October 21, 2017 I just registered to say thank you very much! Im suffering from the same problem, ill update when my soldering station will arrive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jantb Posted October 24, 2017 Report Share Posted October 24, 2017 @TheSwain Thank you very much! You are a life saver! Paranormal is my first DNA mod which I bought with very high expectations, especially for TC. From the first day on TC just did not satisfied me as I thought it would (It was no better than my other mods). I don't have access to other DNA's so I was not sure if ohm readings were right or not I also don't have a copper 510 threaded pin to test the internal resistance. So put a thick copper wire into an RDA and measured around 0.5 ohms from Escribe. Again many thanks to you, I have found your post and decided to try it out... In my case thread lock was very lightly applied and I was able to unscrew it without desoldering it and using only one pliers while holding the head with my hand. I removed the lock tight and put it back together. However when I tried with my RDA I still read 0.02 it may be because of the wire application or RDA itself just I said I don't have the copper screw. Anyway I set my internal resistance to 0.015 and tried it. And ohh yeah TC is now way much better now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fr33sp1r1t Posted October 31, 2017 Report Share Posted October 31, 2017 Just say thank you.Nice tutorial. Have reduced internal restsiance to acceptable level following your procedure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayneo Posted November 1, 2017 Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 5 hours ago, Fr33sp1r1t said: Have reduced internal restsiance to acceptable level following your procedure. And what value would that be now? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fr33sp1r1t Posted November 1, 2017 Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 15 hours ago, Wayneo said: And what value would that be now? The value measured using a copper plug was 0.011 ohms, so using Evolv's recommendation of using 80-90% of your test reading i set mine to 0.0094 (or 85% which is just slightly higher than setting of 0.0081 that Lost Vape had originally set (if i had used 80% it would be even closer at 0.0088)). Just for information, before this procedure it had a reading of 0.026 ohms . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayneo Posted November 1, 2017 Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 Like you mentioned, an acceptable value. Others should use those values for comparison if they set their own. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotExist Posted November 3, 2017 Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 My problem was that i had to add solder between the central pin and the positive wire. Also i changed the internal resistance to 0.0094 I dont have device to measure it, just used the parameters that suggested two posts below. Work great now! Thanx alot guys! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xian40 Posted November 9, 2017 Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 Thanks TheSwain, mine was finally a combination of both wire that needed more solder. its now just 0.02 ohm higher in reading the resistance now. dont know if i can call it good now. just have one question. if both black wire and red wire solder is touching under the 510 (because of wire mouvement inside) , what can happen when vaping. are we protected by the board? they are not touching, but just asking. it was the first time that i have to solder 2 wires that what close to eatch other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThatGuySwain Posted November 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 15 hours ago, xian40 said: Thanks TheSwain, mine was finally a combination of both wire that needed more solder. its now just 0.02 ohm higher in reading the resistance now. dont know if i can call it good now. just have one question. if both black wire and red wire solder is touching under the 510 (because of wire mouvement inside) , what can happen when vaping. are we protected by the board? they are not touching, but just asking. it was the first time that i have to solder 2 wires that what close to eatch other. you're very welcome. glad to help. as for the wires touching, IF they were to touch, you would get a "Shorted" error message. but how it is positioned, when you screw an atomizer on, it actually pushes the center pin down, and that separates the two wires. also, there is a black insulator ring between the two rings. so there is very little chance of them ever shorting. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honza Kirda Posted November 15, 2017 Report Share Posted November 15, 2017 Thanks TheSwain, failed the step 3. Connector 510 broken . Where to buy new ??? Thx Honza Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marwan Posted November 16, 2017 Report Share Posted November 16, 2017 You are super awesome!! I have the same problem with my Paranormal 166. I'm going to try this fix. That's a bunch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marwan Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 On 10/12/2017 at 6:33 PM, TheSwain said: Hello all, as promised, I have taken pictures along with a write up on how to fix the Paranormal that reads ohms too high. The 510 connector on the Paranormal has what I believe is thread lock between the ring where the ground wire is soldered to, and the main body of the connector. thread lock is a non-conductive substance which causes the Ohm readings to be off, However, it is an easy fix. I have included pictures for steps 1-5, after that, it is reassembly so follow steps 3-1 in reverse order. Step1: remove the 3 T5 torx screws that hold the 510 to the body. Step 2: carefully unsolder the ground (black) wire form the outer ring. (take care not to over heat and melt inner insulator ring.) Step 3: using two pair of adjustable jaw pliers, grab the edge of the 510 with one pliers, and the ring that the ground wire was connected to with the other, and unscrew the ring from the 510. (take care to not how the insulator ring goes in.) Step 4: clean out the threads inside the ring and off the threads of the main 510 body. Using a pair of tweezers or small flathead screw driver is a good idea. Step 5: wipe ofF threads with rubbing alcohol or acetone. Step 6: reassemble and tighten down ground ring to main body of 510. Step 7: re-solder the ground wire back to the ring, (don't hold heat on too long or you risk melting insulator ring.) Step 8: line up the 510 and reattach to body with 3 T5 screws. that will bring the ohm reading back to correct readings. Update to this list, this particular paranormal also had a spotty Positive connection, which also is an easy fix with a soldering iron, see last picture for fix. Edit: My test coil is a .29ohm coil for reference. On 10/12/2017 at 6:33 PM, TheSwain said: Hello all, as promised, I have taken pictures along with a write up on how to fix the Paranormal that reads ohms too high. The 510 connector on the Paranormal has what I believe is thread lock between the ring where the ground wire is soldered to, and the main body of the connector. thread lock is a non-conductive substance which causes the Ohm readings to be off, However, it is an easy fix. I have included pictures for steps 1-5, after that, it is reassembly so follow steps 3-1 in reverse order. Step1: remove the 3 T5 torx screws that hold the 510 to the body. Step 2: carefully unsolder the ground (black) wire form the outer ring. (take care not to over heat and melt inner insulator ring.) Step 3: using two pair of adjustable jaw pliers, grab the edge of the 510 with one pliers, and the ring that the ground wire was connected to with the other, and unscrew the ring from the 510. (take care to not how the insulator ring goes in.) Step 4: clean out the threads inside the ring and off the threads of the main 510 body. Using a pair of tweezers or small flathead screw driver is a good idea. Step 5: wipe ofF threads with rubbing alcohol or acetone. Step 6: reassemble and tighten down ground ring to main body of 510. Step 7: re-solder the ground wire back to the ring, (don't hold heat on too long or you risk melting insulator ring.) Step 8: line up the 510 and reattach to body with 3 T5 screws. that will bring the ohm reading back to correct readings. Update to this list, this particular paranormal also had a spotty Positive connection, which also is an easy fix with a soldering iron, see last picture for fix. Edit: My test coil is a .29ohm coil for reference. I'm glad to tell you that i did it with my Cuz. On my DNA166 And it's working perfectly now! Thanks so much for the instructions man!😁 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amw86 Posted November 20, 2017 Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 I'm so annoyed I have to try to do this too my paranormal 166 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marwan Posted November 20, 2017 Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 I was annoyed and Angry too! But trust me if you did it carefully and follow the steps, you will be happy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marwan Posted November 20, 2017 Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 I was annoyed and Angry too! But trust me if you did it carefully and follow the steps, you will be happy! BTW. Ypu dont need to disconnect the black wire from the 510. I didn't do that. I was able to unscrew the 510. And clean all the parts without disconnecting the black wire. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThatGuySwain Posted November 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 Happy I could help. AND I too, have found you don't need to take any of the wires off to do this fix.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
user111 Posted November 26, 2017 Report Share Posted November 26, 2017 Friends, the threaded part of the connector is screwed very poorly. I twisted it with my hands. Black wire is not necessary to solder! He does not interfere with unscrewing. Did all the action on the instructions and now the resistance does not float! I am very happy. The only thing I want to pay attention to: when you screw the connector into place, do not squeeze the red and black wires to the body of the device. I spent 10 minutes on the whole work 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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