The new Paranormal.Same old BS.

[Smokin Dave]

The Paranormal came in today and no matter what I do it will go into temp protected and not fire.I use ss316L always.I've tried the latest service pak downgraded to earlier service paks and nothing works.Ran the case analyzer and still nothing and I'm using DJlsb's ss316l csv.It fires fine in watts.

I'm at a loss.

 

At least the hCigar isn't giving me this headache.

[Smokin Dave]

Yup.So far VERY disappointed.It will not fire in ss316L without going right into temp protect no matter what temp it's set at.Fires in watts no problem.I've tried everything I know to do.I am at a loss.

[dwcraig1]

I don't have one so I need to ask. Does the 510 connect to the board with a ground wire or is it chassis ground? Same question for the boards's B-. I'd be looking towards things like that.

EDIT:

Well at DJLSB Vapes on his video I was able to see the ground wire on the 510 but not much else as it resisted disassembly. So still want to know how the board is connected to the battery negative.
 

[Lowbytes]

@Smokin Dave What Coil resistance you are trying to fire in TC mode? Spaced or micro coil? Simple 316l or clapton?

This is how i would try to find out whats wrong - Disabled Preheat - internal Mod resistance set to 0,003 - atomizer analysis (read cold resistance) - manually set resistance to somewhat lower and lock it (if raw ohms are read at 0,356 set it to 0,340) 

Are you sure that your atomizer is not jumping around with resistance??? Variable center pin is one of the reasons why some atomizers are resistance jumping make sure that your center pin is screwed all the way in! Perfect build atomizers don´t need an adjustable center pin......... Give us a bit more input - what atomizers are you trying to use???? For example - the Kayfun V4 is nearly unusable for TC (without modification to the center pin) as far as i found out

 

[Lowbytes]

Try to create your own curve for your build - link: http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz.asp#

or try to use the attached csv 

SteamEngine-DNA200.csv

[Lowbytes]

Maybe a screenshot of device monitor while firing would be helpful ............. with activated graph for temp - voltage - resistance - power - cold resistance

[Smokin Dave]

This is what I'm using............

1 Aromamizer Supreme with staggered fused claptons (28g/32gx2)/32g 3mm/6 wraps

2 Aromamizer Supreme with Triple core fused claptons  28gx3/36g  3mm/6 wraps

3 OBS Engine with the same claptons as # 1 Aromamizer

And as I get up this morning all I get is a check atomizer and no atomizer message no matter what tank is screwed in.It won't even fire in watts now.The ohm reading was jumping all over the place before I tried to fire it up and when I did try to fire it the messages appeared. The 510 pins are all the way in on all atomizers.I've tried everything from a hard reboot to soft reboot to changing service packs and on and on bla bla bla.

I think I was sent a faulty mod and it looks like I'm going to yell at evolve like I had to do with my Therion when I first got it and had to send it in for repairs.This is BS and I'm really tired of paying top dollar for supposedly great mods and getting crap.

Edited September 6, 2017 by Smokin Dave

[giz_60]

If no atty is working, then it sounds like a connection issue with the 510 pin...which has nothing to do with Evolv, but rather Lost Vape...have had similar issues before & was able to fix by using a small screwdriver/knife to raise the 510 pin to establish a solid connection...

[Roos]

Hi, i have same problem like Smoking Dave

Immediately after firing, a TC mode turns off firing and no puffing is possible. I tried that on 4 different atomizers because I wanted to eliminate the error of an atomizer, a build or my hands.  I tried simple and more complicated builds and of course everything was in SS316. The resistence was measured in a room temperature. An escribe software and mode communite with each other correctly. I tried different curves and even TCR too. Preheat Off. All 4 atomizers works without any problems on different devices (Drag / Primo Mini / Ephro Mod 101). I cleaned all atomizers and I put in all of them an easy single coil, SS316L - 0.3 average of a wire, the resistance of 0,7 ohms. I also cleaned a 510 centerpin in a mode and also in all atomizers. An no success. A Paranormal measures the resistance of 0,2 - 0,5 ohms which is also higher than in other devices. The TC mode doesn’t work at all or a only for a moment - I assume till the moment of the heating. If I switch the atomizer to a different device, it works without any problems.

[Lowbytes]

Okay - at first we should sort out if this issue is related only to the Paranormal or to any DNA75C device .......

So as i mentioned before - a screenshot while firing would be a first step - Since i do not use ss316l i can´t test with this material - i´ll try to get a bit of ss316l from my friends to do some tests with it.....

[Lowbytes]

Check Atomizer - No Atomizer - this should not happen anyway if an atomizer is screwed on! Looking like a faulty 510 or 510 connection - also the reading of the resistance should be more or less stable (in function of changing temperature it may variate by a few milli ohms) but no real jumps! 

Edited September 6, 2017 by Lowbytes

[Smokin Dave]

My tanks work fine with my Therion 75 which I had to send in for repairs after a weeks worth of use when I first got it last year.I'll be sending this Paranormal in for repairs as well.

Folks,I'm done with Lost Vape.

12 hours ago, giz_60 said:

If no atty is working, then it sounds like a connection issue with the 510 pin...which has nothing to do with Evolv, but rather Lost Vape...have had similar issues before & was able to fix by using a small screwdriver/knife to raise the 510 pin to establish a solid connection...

Yeah I know.I jumped the gun on that one.It's Lost Vape that will be getting an ear full.Hell.It's the second LV mod I've had to send back for repairs.I'm a veteran.

Edited September 6, 2017 by Smokin Dave

[Roos]

I tried this approach:

(post from "StressTest")

https: // forum.evolvapor.com / topic / 65867-soft-hard-reboot-command-issues /

and

https: // forum.evolvapor.com / topic / 65803-temperature-control-not-working-at-all /

helped (so far)... but it's frustrating :-(

[sd401k]

As the 510 pin on the Paranormal is kind of shallow, I have to ask. Have you ever screwed down your atty until it stopped turning, and because of a gap decided to keep cranking the atty down until it sat flush? If you ever did, that's most likely your problem. I've seen it more times than I can possibly count. Very common easily fixed issue. I ask this because of the 19 mods I have, 4 of which are from Lost Vape, all running 316L perfectly in temp control. Of course I do have a gap with my favorite tank so I went to Home Depot and bought a 22mm OD, 8 mm ID, teflon washer for $0.09 and filled the gap with that washer. No more gap, not one 510 pin issue in 4 years of vaping.

Edited September 11, 2017 by sd401k

[Smokin Dave]

6 hours ago, sd401k said:

As the 510 pin on the Paranormal is kind of shallow, I have to ask. Have you ever screwed down your atty until it stopped turning, and because of a gap decided to keep cranking the atty down until it sat flush? If you ever did, that's most likely your problem. I've seen it more times than I can possibly count. Very common easily fixed issue. I ask this because of the 19 mods I have, 4 of which are from Lost Vape, all running 316L perfectly in temp control. Of course I do have a gap with my favorite tank so I went to Home Depot and bought a 22mm OD, 8 mm ID, teflon washer for $0.09 and filled the gap with that washer. No more gap, not one 510 pin issue in 4 years of vaping.

Yup.That is my suspicion as well.I've already boxed it up and sent back to be repaired.I don't have the time or patience to monkey around with a brand new overly priced mod for it to not work right out of the box.Maybe I should have spent more on the G class.Or really ponied up the bread for one of these........

https://raksasamods.com/

Now those are some mods.

Knowing my luck these would be crap right out of the box as well.HA.

 

[Roos]

Hello. Just a note. If my TC works (unfortunately only 1 hour then stops it) it shows strange temperature values (65 ° C = 149 F / grip and escribe too) or does not show the temperature at all. Is it help?

Easy single coil SS316L, 0,3 mm, gap, 3mm diameter, 8-9 wraps, +/- 0.7 Ohm on other devices... Paranormal  shows 0.9-1 Ohm

[Smokin Dave]

Well now.I just received my Paranormal back from repair(thanks Evolv.that was a fast turn around) and now,finally it works as it should have all along.It works great in TC and it vapes and behaves like I like it to do.All of my tanks work on it and now I'm satisfied.Thank you Evolv.

Edited September 16, 2017 by Smokin Dave

[randy mc]

On 9/17/2017 at 4:45 AM, Smokin Dave said:

Well now.I just received my Paranormal back from repair(thanks Evolv.that was a fast turn around) and now,finally it works as it should have all along.It works great in TC and it vapes and behaves like I like it to do.All of my tanks work on it and now I'm satisfied.Thank you Evolv.

how did you contact them by email? and you contacted lostvape? im having the same issues and i want to send mine to lostvape to get fixed...or did you send yours back to the place you bought it?

[ThatGuySwain]

5 hours ago, randy mc said:

how did you contact them by email? and you contacted lostvape? im having the same issues and i want to send mine to lostvape to get fixed...or did you send yours back to the place you bought it?

Open a ticket with Evolv 

https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com

or take a look at this, I just posted about the 510 issue on another topic. i will copy it here. If you are comfortable in fixing yourself, if not, send it in and Evolv will take care of you.

"The 510 connector on the Paranormal has what i believe is thread lock between the ring where the ground wire is soldered to, and the main body of the connector. thread lock is a non-conductive substance which causes the Ohm readings to be off, However, it is an easy fix.

Step1: remove the 3 T5 torx screws that hold the 510 to the body.

Step 2: carefully unsolder the ground (black) wire form the outer ring. (take care not to over heat and melt inner insulator ring.)

Step 3: using two pair of adjustable jaw pliers, grab the edge of the 510 with one pliers, and the ring that the ground wire was connected to with the other, and unscrew the ring from the 510. (take care to not how the insulator ring goes in.)

Step 4: clean out the threads inside the ring and off the threads of the main 510 body. Using a pair of tweezers or small flathead screw driver is a good idea.

Step 5: wipe ofF threads with rubbing alcohol or acetone. 

Step 6: reassemble and tighten down ground ring to main body of 510. 

Step 7: re-solder the ground wire back to the ring, (don't hold heat on too long or you risk melting insulator ring.)

Step 8: line up the 510 and reattach to body with 3 T5 screws. 

that will bring the ohm reading back to correct readings.  "

[cessnapix]

same problem here. temp mode doesnt work. jumps onto temp protected and will not fire. it will be working fine. if sits then will not fire. very unpredictable. 316l 6 wrap single core clapton. 24gx36g. works fine in watt mode.

ill check the 510

[cessnapix]

cleaned the lock tite off the 510 with the edge of scotch brite pad and wiped with 190 proof grain alcohol and seems fine now. did not need to desolder negative wire. it was actually a little loose for thread lock. I need to check internal resistance though. seems off by.03?

Thanks everyone.