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Good Lipo for CNC 1590g?


kwaz51
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Looking for a good battery to replace the lipo that's currently in my box. It's an Ares 1000mah, 20C (20A) continuous at 77 x 35 x 17mm. It performs well but the battery life leaves something to be desired. I am not a modder, I had this box built for me, but I am capable of replacing the battery. 

I appreciate your guys' time and input. This forum has taught me many things in the few days since I've been here!

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These will both fit: BW® LiPo Battery 11.1V 1500mAh 35C 3S for RC Airplane Helicopter Vehicle Boat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WEDSV70/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_uevTvbVDP5NAW Venom 35C 3S 1000mAh 11.1v LiPO Battery For Aquacraft Minimono Brushless RC Boat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K3OZ4BS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_.evTvb1ZR4K4C

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  • 2 weeks later...
kwaz51 said:

Looking for a good battery to replace the lipo that's currently in my box. It's an Ares 1000mah, 20C (20A) continuous at 77 x 35 x 17mm. It performs well but the battery life leaves something to be desired. I am not a modder, I had this box built for me, but I am capable of replacing the battery. 

I appreciate your guys' time and input. This forum has taught me many things in the few days since I've been here!



That battery is not good enough, recommended above 23 amps. I used a Turnigy nano-tech 1000mah 45c (74x35x19) battery soldered positive and negative straight to the board and it fits perfect just to let you know what size can be used .
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Gm111 said:

 I used a Turnigy nano-tech 1000mah 45c (74x35x19) battery soldered positive and negative straight to the board and it fits perfect just to let you know what size can be used .



I have that pack and it gives me 1.5 days of vaping at a frequent rate on a .23 coil with big vapor and I undercharge it.
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  • 2 weeks later...
Gm111 said:

[QUOTE=kwaz51]Looking for a good battery to replace the lipo that's currently in my box. It's an Ares 1000mah, 20C (20A) continuous at 77 x 35 x 17mm. It performs well but the battery life leaves something to be desired. I am not a modder, I had this box built for me, but I am capable of replacing the battery. 

I appreciate your guys' time and input. This forum has taught me many things in the few days since I've been here!



That battery is not good enough, recommended above 23 amps. I used a Turnigy nano-tech 1000mah 45c (74x35x19) battery soldered positive and negative straight to the board and it fits perfect just to let you know what size can be used .[/QUOTE]

i dont push the mod very hard so im not too worried at this point but i do plan on purchasing a better lipo, hence the reason for this thread! just trying to find a great lipo that will fit in this 1590g CNC box
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  • 3 weeks later...

I am building ati 1590g+ with this battery http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__76912__Turnigy_1250mAh_3S_30C_Lipo_Pack_Long_.html --  90x30x20mm-30c.  Got a mitec fire switch and some 3d printed nickle steel buttons for up/down. I tried to fit this battery in the regular 1590g, too thick gotta use the g+ and the lid flanges close with the battery all the way against the edge, I am going for clean build. I even got a 2 pin jst clip to mount to the board for my fire switch, this battery also comes wired with xt30 and will leave me space enough for a clean build with removable battery (I got 2 of these).  Just waiting on shapeways for my buttons and board/screen mount from Mamu. I'm going to use hex screws countersunk in the face to mount the board, sanding the box to a high shine.
BTW, this is my first build, so wish me luck!
[76912]

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I have two weeks b4 my shapeways stuff comes, but the 1250 wedges in between the mount points and will rest barely against the 510 pin mounted as close to the post as the nut can be, make sure its a shallow mitec, it also has to be mounted close to the post for the board to fit, there is just enough space to wedge the battery in the left over space, I only have 16mm for the board. it needs 13-14mm at its widest point (the balance connector), I worry that with the  plug connected, I might be short 2mm but I can always wire the balance connector away from the board if i need too, which is likely. I may also have to wire the fire switch direct, but I'll have the parts to play with and see whats what.  I am one of the least likely ppl on earth to post a pic,  I dont do facebook or anything else.  But I was thinking about doing a virgin build video for the youtube. lets face it, chances are I will screw everything up, but at least I'll learn something. I'll keep you up to date so we all can learn from my mistakes. :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

O.K. Here it is. I made some modifications to the box and lid to make everything fit without resizing any wires on the battery itself, the idea is an easily swappable battery, I have two. The guy on ebay that sells the 1590g with a sliding door wont ship to me in Hawaii, so I made the lid slide by removing some lip on the lid, also made notches so it locks on the bottom magnets (actually pretty slick, slide open with my thumb and it magically leaps down and relocks on to the lower magnets keeping the lid in perfect line and hoilding it for me while i show off my guts). I also had to carve out three corners. if you wire the jst plug away from the board this can all fit without any carving, the battery does fit without ant carving of the corners, it actually wedges in, for my intentions of an ez swap battery i chose to do a little dremmel work. this is my first mod, i've never built anything really. I make Hamburgers. That being said I am pretty proud of myself and am thinking if i got a dremmel press and router setup this would be really ez to make to a higher level of craftsmanship looks-wise. I did freehand the usb and window with a dremmel but I kinda dig the flintstone look. I coulda countersunk the chipmount screws a tiny bit deeper but all in all I am fuckin stoked. I could retouch some things on this but I am gonna leave it just the way it is as a reminder of my first mod. Oh, also note the magnet I had to recut for on the top corner, did that so the battery could slip under it. edit...no glue used, no button replacement.... I dissassembled the metal button switches and used the tops as actuators, I had purchased the mamu buttons from shapeways- metal takes like a month, but i lost one gring it :( but i like these and was happy i could use them WITHOUT REPLACING THE ORIGINAL WATERPROOF SWITCHES/ wich apparentltly the interwebs thinks cant be done for some reason, I used mamus mounting plate for the chipmount and her/his? template to cut out my holes. KIMG0009.jpg  KIMG0010.jpg  KIMG0012.jpg  KIMG0011.jpg  KIMG0013.jpg  KIMG0014.jpg  KIMG0015.jpg  KIMG0016.jpg  KIMG0019.jpg  KIMG0020.jpg  KIMG0024.jpg

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