Hana V200

[monster92]

Tomr1088 said:

[QUOTE=Wake-N-Vape]Monster, yep, so far my screen seems to be ok...  I did not take the board screws out to physically check it out, but I would guess that it is probably ok seeing the positive and negative leads are soldered to the board.  Hopefully they started doing that after fixing the screen issues?  But, I am definitely on the look out for any weird happenings with the screen.

Can u confirm if removing that circlip will allow me to side the 510 pin out for soldering a new wire [/QUOTE] Tmor more then likely because as stated when the c-clip wasn't in place the 510 was practically out. Take note there's probably a spring on top of it. Possibly...

[Wake-N-Vape]

Tomr1088 said:

Can u confirm if removing that circlip will allow me to side the 510 pin out for soldering a new wire

I did not try to pull the whole assembly out when I had the case open since I did not remove the board.  But, I do believe that it would allow you to slide out the 510 pin assembly with the circlip removed as long as the wire is flexible enough to slide it out without damaging the wire.

[Tomr1088]

Wake-N-Vape said:

[QUOTE=Tomr1088]Can u confirm if removing that circlip will allow me to side the 510 pin out for soldering a new wire

I did not try to pull the whole assembly out when I had the case open since I did not remove the board.  But, I do believe that it would allow you to slide out the 510 pin assembly with the circlip removed as long as the wire is flexible enough to slide it out without damaging the wire.[/QUOTE] I am going to be changing the wire and properly soldering it in hopes of fixing my resistance reading problem. I have snap ring pliers so I'll prob do that later today and report back. I may have to actually go buy some de soldering components and a new soldering iron now. Hopefully locally I can get one

[monster92]

Wake-N-Vape said:

[QUOTE=Tomr1088]Can u confirm if removing that circlip will allow me to side the 510 pin out for soldering a new wire

I did not try to pull the whole assembly out when I had the case open since I did not remove the board.  But, I do believe that it would allow you to slide out the 510 pin assembly with the circlip removed as long as the wire is flexible enough to slide it out without damaging the wire.[/QUOTE] One thing that I'm not happy about is no matter what atty I screw on it doesn't sit flush. I mean it's not that big of a deal but still. Pretty sure I know why. It's one of two things. Because of the size of the battery the 510 hits the battery. Or there's just so much solder over flow that it makes it difficult for the 510 to "spring". Or a mixture of both.

[Kevinl86]

Well, looks like mine decided to crap out. Was vaping with it happily for a week and everything was going well. Now my two subtanks I have built at 0.15ohms will read at 0.33 and inconsistently let me vape. Hits temp within a half a second and just does not read resistance correctly anymore. I took it apart and everything seems fine the 510 has a solid connection (if you can call it that) and the pin seems to be doing its job fine.. ugh.

EDIT: Opened it back up and slightly tweaked/moved the 510 wire and it seems to be reading ok again. I'm sure it's just a matter of time before the resistance gets messed up again.

[Tomr1088]

Kevinl86 said:

Well, looks like mine decided to crap out. Was vaping with it happily for a week and everything was going well. Now my two subtanks I have built at 0.15ohms will read at 0.33 and inconsistently let me vape. Hits temp within a half a second and just does not read resistance correctly anymore. I took it apart and everything seems fine the 510 has a solid connection (if you can call it that) and the pin seems to be doing its job fine.. ugh.

EDIT: Opened it back up and slightly tweaked/moved the 510 wire and it seems to be reading ok again. I'm sure it's just a matter of time before the resistance gets messed up again.  

Wow yours is way worse than mine

[MikeTheVapeDude]

I'm really scared after reading this thread.. I just got my DNA200 Hana in the mail today. Configured on the 4th of August, board programmed on the first of July. Reads Ohms accurately, the buttons all feel fine, zero issues out of it. Is there anyone with a Hana V200 that ISN'T messing up..? I really hope mine doesn't because I'm a box modder but don't have the tools needed to make a DNA200D, I usually make series, lipos and parallel boxes. Unregulated. Did one SX350J but it was in a 3D printed box. So, anyone have a Hana that's been working like a charm for the entire time they've had it?

The only weird thing I'm noticing is on my Uwell Crown tank, which takes 316L SS Wire coils, it will read the resistance right but assume it's in TC mode, but if I unscrew it and hit NO on new coil it works fine. Does this on no other device, only the SS Wire coils. Figured it was due to them having a TCR rating that can work for TC.

So.. any good Hanas?

[KTMRider]

From what I've read, they fixed the issues this weekend so yours should be good. After replacing my screen, it's been working great. I was vaping it even with the screen blank and no other issues. 

If you've been making unregulated mods, it's not much different. You use a soldering iron, right? 

For your tank with SS coils, turn TP off and it shouldn't have any issues. 

I think the v200 is the perfect size for me. The V4 was too skinny and the original Hana box was just a bit too fat (no, I'm not Goldilocks ). It's the same size around as the rDNA40 but just a bit taller (10mm?) and the rDNA40 is my favorite mod. 

[MikeTheVapeDude]

I adore my V200. I'm surprised how much life 950mah can give vaping at 105 watts constantly. I adore the hell out of it, I do. Then I got on here, with a mind full of questions and I saw this thread. Oh hey! I just got one. Then I'm greeted with:

OMFG, SHE'S DOWN, SHE'S DYING, HE'S DYING, THEY'RE ALL DYING, ABANDON SHIP.

My heart sank. So if they fixed the issues that's a relief for me. I took mine apart and nothing seemed out of place.

It's not the soldering aspect. I've wired a lot of OKL and Raptor boxes. It's not the wiring and soldering that turned me off of making my own. It was dremeling/angle grinding (two tools of which I have neither of) for the screen. I can drill like a boss, but I've had no experience or even have the needed tools to clear out a section for the screen. I was dead set on getting a 100C 1850Mah MaxAmp 3S lipo and making one, but as I said, I got turned off. The most viable option I saw was the 1590G DNA200D faceplate with everything ready, but from experience working with 1590G's I didn't see me having the room I wanted with that faceplate.

[John]

Mike there are about 450 Hanas in customer hands at last count, so I'd guess most of them are working okay. Hana assures us that every time they make a batch they're taking the feedback from the previous batches and making improvements, so I'd imagine they have the screen cable issue handled by now. 

[MikeTheVapeDude]

If the 510 F'd up I'm fully capable of resoldering the wire or even replacing the 510 flat out. I have several 14mm, 22mm and 28.5mm Fat Daddy V4 LP's, Shorts, Normals and Varitubes on hand as well as 12, 14 and 16 gauge stranded and solder copper and silver wire. So if it were to go, I'm confident I could fix it but it's working 100% atm. The screen issue I don't know. I can take stuff apart and put it back together, my issue with making my own mod was getting the box itself made right, not the wiring. So worst case scenario I believe I could fix it, but if the screen issue is fixed, should the 510 F itself I could easily fix it. The date on Escribe was the 4th of August. Two days ago. So it's the newest batch, Navy Blue. I just, love your chip man.

It's a dream come true. I'm an electrical engineer and a PC nerd with a $6,200 gaming PC and a $5,100 AutoCAD PC and a $2,800 Workstation PC as well as several high-end laptops. I love programming and design as well. So EScribe is like, home, for me, and I love having the option. I love the screen, the easy of navigation and performance, and I especially love this mod for it's size and feel. It's my dream mod, with my dream chip. Seriously, Evolv, you guys knocked the ball out of the park and into space with this chip, I understand they've had issues but it's hard to imagine something with this level of innovation not having some issues at launch, and I'm confident you guys will fix them all and make the chip that much better.

 

A bit off topic, but do you guys ever have plans with firmware updates to increase the output wattage? Not a needed option for me, though I have vaped at 550W on a 4S Lipo PWM Unregulated Mod. But 200W on this baby is plenty for me, just curious.

[monster92]

So mine seems to be working flawlessly except one thing... No matter what ni200 build I do it keeps saying temp protected. Made the 510 connection more solid and it keeps saying temp protected... What do I do...

[John]

Temp protected message means it is throttling the wattage to keep the temperature under control. It isn't an error message. 

That said, you can turn it off. Go into Escribe, on the Theme tab, next to the Temperature Protected message, you can change it to "Don't show"

[monster92]

John said:

Temp protected message means it is throttling the wattage to keep the temperature under control. It isn't an error message. 

That said, you can turn it off. Go into Escribe, on the Theme tab, next to the Temperature Protected message, you can change it to "Don't show"

Thanks John! So when I set it to do not show it'll keep it from throttling the wattage as well correct?

[Noixd]

John said:

Temp protected message means it is throttling the wattage to keep the temperature under control. It isn't an error message. 

That said, you can turn it off. Go into Escribe, on the Theme tab, next to the Temperature Protected message, you can change it to "Don't show"

When you change it to "Don't show" does that mean it is turned off or does it still operate TP but doesn't display the message?

[Noixd]

John said:

Mike there are about 450 Hanas in customer hands at last count, so I'd guess most of them are working okay. Hana assures us that every time they make a batch they're taking the feedback from the previous batches and making improvements, so I'd imagine they have the screen cable issue handled by now. 

Yea, my Hana is still good with no issues. Knock on wood. Can you tell me why the same atty with a nickel build is showing different ohms level on my hana and opus? Hana reads it at .07 while the Opus reads is at .08 but both are using the same chip. I don't get it. 

[KTMRider]

MikeTheVapeDude said:

If the 510 F'd up I'm fully capable of resoldering the wire or even replacing the 510 flat out. I have several 14mm, 22mm and 28.5mm Fat Daddy V4 LP's, Shorts, Normals and Varitubes on hand as well as 12, 14 and 16 gauge stranded and solder copper and silver wire. So if it were to go, I'm confident I could fix it but it's working 100% atm. The screen issue I don't know. I can take stuff apart and put it back together, my issue with making my own mod was getting the box itself made right, not the wiring. So worst case scenario I believe I could fix it, but if the screen issue is fixed, should the 510 F itself I could easily fix it. The date on Escribe was the 4th of August. Two days ago. So it's the newest batch, Navy Blue. I just, love your chip man.

It's a dream come true. I'm an electrical engineer and a PC nerd with a $6,200 gaming PC and a $5,100 AutoCAD PC and a $2,800 Workstation PC as well as several high-end laptops. I love programming and design as well. So EScribe is like, home, for me, and I love having the option. I love the screen, the easy of navigation and performance, and I especially love this mod for it's size and feel. It's my dream mod, with my dream chip. Seriously, Evolv, you guys knocked the ball out of the park and into space with this chip, I understand they've had issues but it's hard to imagine something with this level of innovation not having some issues at launch, and I'm confident you guys will fix them all and make the chip that much better.

 

A bit off topic, but do you guys ever have plans with firmware updates to increase the output wattage? Not a needed option for me, though I have vaped at 550W on a 4S Lipo PWM Unregulated Mod. But 200W on this baby is plenty for me, just curious.

The 510 is probably the only thing you won't be able to replace easily. They use a propritetary 510 and the hole is 16-18mm (big!). VT and FDv uses a 10mm hole (9.something tapped). 

I do like the v200 a LOT. It's a great mod and the battery life is perfect for me. 

[KTMRider]

monster92 said:

So mine seems to be working flawlessly except one thing... No matter what ni200 build I do it keeps saying temp protected. Made the 510 connection more solid and it keeps saying temp protected... What do I do...

Are you hitting TP immediately when firing? 

If so, it might be a short in your coil. Are you making spaced? That's the most reliable I've found. Make sure no coil is touching. 

[KTMRider]

Noixd said:

[QUOTE=John]Mike there are about 450 Hanas in customer hands at last count, so I'd guess most of them are working okay. Hana assures us that every time they make a batch they're taking the feedback from the previous batches and making improvements, so I'd imagine they have the screen cable issue handled by now. 

Yea, my Hana is still good with no issues. Knock on wood. Can you tell me why the same atty with a nickel build is showing different ohms level on my hana and opus? Hana reads it at .07 while the Opus reads is at .08 but both are using the same chip. I don't get it. [/QUOTE]

Mod build variances (510 specifically). As long as it isn't more than .01? you should be fine. I've had builds that were .115? show up as .11? or .12? on various DNA40 and DNA200 mods.

[Noixd]

KTMRider said:

[QUOTE=Noixd][QUOTE=John]Mike there are about 450 Hanas in customer hands at last count, so I'd guess most of them are working okay. Hana assures us that every time they make a batch they're taking the feedback from the previous batches and making improvements, so I'd imagine they have the screen cable issue handled by now. 

Yea, my Hana is still good with no issues. Knock on wood. Can you tell me why the same atty with a nickel build is showing different ohms level on my hana and opus? Hana reads it at .07 while the Opus reads is at .08 but both are using the same chip. I don't get it. [/QUOTE]

Mod build variances (510 specifically). As long as it isn't more than .01? you should be fine. I've had builds that were .115? show up as .11? or .12? on various DNA40 and DNA200 mods.[/QUOTE]

Aite good to know. Thanks

[monster92]

John was right! Like always(; lol. Went into Escribe and turned temperature protected to "do not show" in the themes tab. Thank you John!

[MikeTheVapeDude]

I have yet to give it a full charge. Working on it right now. But cell #1 is like .03 lower than the other two which are the same voltage. Cell one is at 4.14 and two and three are at 4.17. This okay/normal? Will they all hit 4.2 at FC?

[KTMRider]

MikeTheVapeDude said:

I have yet to give it a full charge. Working on it right now. But cell #1 is like .03 lower than the other two which are the same voltage. Cell one is at 4.14 and two and three are at 4.17. This okay/normal? Will they all hit 4.2 at FC?

It should be close enough and it should balance out to 4.2 when fully charged. I'd keep an eye on it for a few charges though. 

[monster92]

MikeTheVapeDude said:

I have yet to give it a full charge. Working on it right now. But cell #1 is like .03 lower than the other two which are the same voltage. Cell one is at 4.14 and two and three are at 4.17. This okay/normal? Will they all hit 4.2 at FC?

On a full charge yes they should be at 4.2 per cell. Lipo batteries also need a break in process. It's not needed really but to get more runtime and lifespan out of it, it is recommended to "break them in" meaning for the first few cycles have it around 50ish watts. Meaning not to over draw the discharge. After 2 or 3 cycles it should be good.

[Tomr1088]

Update: re soldered my 510 wire. Tried 14 gauge silicone insulated but it was too thick so I used 16 gauge. I won't be going to 200 watts anyways. But still getting a base reading of .16 ohm on a build that reads .04 on everything else. I notice as soon as I fire it reads .06 tho and creeps up till I get to .12. I have the same settings for both mods. Maybe I need to run the case analyzer because the Hana maybe came with different settings? I'm not sure what's going on but it reads solid no matter what. Just way off.