Focus Posted December 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 So here it is guys (and girls). My first attempt at building a MOD.Parts:Evolv DNA200 Board and screenZIPPY Compact 1300mAh 3s 40c Lipo PackModsledz DNA200 Board Holder V1VT-B510 Varitube 510 ConnectorPS-MSW1201-Mitec 12mm Momentary Push Button Switch Flat TopSparkFun Max Power IR LED Kit - Converted to run a LED Instead on an acrylic ring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black lace Posted December 30, 2015 Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 Very nice looking mod our mate, ive built quite a few but the ones i have with magnetic backs ive glued shut because i dont swap the batteries and i dont want bits of swarf or anything shorting the board, each to there own ect, again very nice mod, built not bought.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_nm Posted December 30, 2015 Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 Is the Sparkfun LED Kit powered from the board? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Focus Posted December 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 chris_nm said:Is the Sparkfun LED Kit powered from the board?Chris, what I did was this: Seing as the Button has battery voltage, I took the output of my externakl switch and ran it back to the evolv board and my led board, dropped in a 3.3V voltage regulator and 15 OHM resistor, that way no matter what the battery voltage, the LED always gets it's 3.3V Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spector NS5 RD Posted December 31, 2015 Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 hey Focus, can you throw up a quick diagram of how you wired the VR in relation to your application. did you buy something like a LD33V voltage regulator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hancock Posted December 31, 2015 Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 Just to toss another question at you. Acrylic ring around the 510? I'm in the process of building a box and this might be a cool add on. If you don't mind sharing your process of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black lace Posted December 31, 2015 Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 just as a matter of interest, what gauge wire have you used for your power out and ground? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Focus Posted December 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 ChunkyButt200 said:hey Focus, can you throw up a quick diagram of how you wired the VR in relation to your application. did you buy something like a LD33V voltage regulator?I actually used an L4931 3.3V regulator in a to-92 package. Here is the datasheet:http://www.adafruit.com/images/product-files/2166/2166datasheet.pdfWiring was simple. It has Voltage IN, Voltage Out, and Ground, I wired the resistor in series on the output to limit current. So it goes like this: Output of my external firing switch goes back to the evolv and to the LED board, ground is tapped at the evolv board and output from regulator to the led. The other side of the led goes to a resistor and then ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Focus Posted December 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 Michael Hancock said:Just to toss another question at you. Acrylic ring around the 510? I'm in the process of building a box and this might be a cool add on. If you don't mind sharing your process of course.I drilled a 3mm hole ( the size of the LED ) in the casing next to the 510. I measured the 510 for the dimensions of the acrylic ring, fit it on so I can mark the hole for the led on the acrylic ring ( you need the led to stick a little in to the ring to illuminate )I then hot glued it all to the underside in case I needed to replace the LED or other part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Focus Posted December 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 black lace said:just as a matter of interest, what gauge wire have you used for your power out and ground?I ended up using 18 Guage stranded wire since I didn't have any 16 guage on hand. Anything bigger would not fit through the hole on the bottom of the 510 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black lace Posted December 31, 2015 Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 18guage: depending on your style of vaping you may get a bit too warm for hot glue and have to swap for epoxi, i know what you mean about the 510 hole, i carefully grind mine out with a dremil bit and have managed to get 14 guage in by fluxing the inside of the center pin, then dropping some slithers of solder down the hole then flux the wire and push it in the hole, then heat it with the soldering iron and you will see the solder ooze out and up the untinned wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Focus Posted December 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 black lace said:18guage: depending on your style of vaping you may get a bit too warm for hot glue and have to swap for epoxi, i know what you mean about the 510 hole, i carefully grind mine out with a dremil bit and have managed to get 14 guage in by fluxing the inside of the center pin, then dropping some slithers of solder down the hole then flux the wire and push it in the hole, then heat it with the soldering iron and you will see the solder ooze out and up the untinned wire. I am only using the 18guage from the board to the 510 which is about 1.5" length. According to specs 18 guage is good for 30A @ 12VDC with a maximum length of 3 feet which will give a maximum voltage loss of 3%. So at 1.5" I believe it's minimal.As for the solder I did the same thing tinned the wire dropped some solder into the hole and then heated it all up !As for the hotglue, I only used it for the LED board everything else is epoxied with thermal conductive epoxy. And the wire I use for that is 24AWG, who needs more for 20 microamps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black lace Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 lamo..no you said quote,, I ended up using 18 Guage stranded wire since I didn't have any 16 guage on hand. Anything bigger would not fit through the hole on the bottom of the 510..ok,,, hope you don't find thermal conductivity or however you wish to put it,, heat,, will transfer from the bottom of the atty to the inner underside of the top of your mod box where your board is hot glued and it will drop like held on with soft bubble gum,,, because then you may wish to use some of the thermal epoxy you've got,,,, where on earth else would you need to put it,,,, like why would I bother saying anything if I didn't know............... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Focus Posted January 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 black lace said:lamo..no you said quote,, I ended up using 18 Guage stranded wire since I didn't have any 16 guage on hand. Anything bigger would not fit through the hole on the bottom of the 510..ok,,, hope you don't find thermal conductivity or however you wish to put it,, heat,, will transfer from the bottom of the atty to the inner underside of the top of your mod box where your board is hot glued and it will drop like held on with soft bubble gum,,, because then you may wish to use some of the thermal epoxy you've got,,,, where on earth else would you need to put it,,,, like why would I bother saying anything if I didn't know...............I understand now what you are saying. I may be lucky and not have to face that issue because I have installed that acrylic ring under the 510 so I hope it will help isolate from the aluminum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black lace Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 Well if it does son you havnt got a very good ground,for board or atty,,, your board aint bolted in...if you start frothing at the mouth and twitching you may wish to pull the fuse anyway lol, all the best... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Focus Posted January 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 black lace said:Well if it does son you havnt got a very good ground,for board or atty,,, your board aint bolted in...if you start frothing at the mouth and twitching you may wish to pull the fuse anyway lol, all the best...Help me understand this a little more. I shouldn't need a chassis ground if I have run a separate wired ground? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black lace Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 Both -- together would have been favourble..for your,quote thermal conductivity, lol, it was moor of a flashing light thing, no worries, although looks nice, it is all a little bit just about, that ull do it, but not quite reaching manufactures recomendations, theres a thread been runing since the start of the forum called lets see your 200s ..and top left of all pages a link to evolv where you can copy the data sheet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now