Michael Hancock

I have not been able to get this while charging. I do not think is a option but I'll look again today.

If you like wood mods check this page, the boxes are great mods.. His largest box holds a Maxamp 2800. https://m.facebook.com/groups/1479503469029109?ref=bookmarks.

I have a new spare just sitting.

Unfortunately yours is all over the place as well. SS is tough to get stable and the crown coils are much harder because of the Ni legs it has.

What does your graph look like with this in the analyzer? I've yet to see a nice clean straight temp line on SS. They always look like the Rockies. Post a screen shot if you can.

Running the test since I just finished it last night. Mitec fire button, Avid/Cisco 510 connector and swappable between duel 18650 & a Lipo.

Yeah a spool of wire is up there is price. I got my Turnigy wire from Hobby King since they had 3 feet for a $1,but it took awhile to get to me.

I am finishing up my first build and went with Turnigy wire. Flexible and easy to work with. I did 14g to the 510 and 16g everywhere else except the fire button.

What type plug are they using?

I would like to see a graph from the other mods that are doing as you say. That is the only true way to see if they are getting a nice even temp. Unfortunately I don't think they have the software . Just because it seems to be working right doesn't mean it's working properly. Also Evolv is in the middle of moving locations while still running a business. That itself is a very stressful task. They have been on here, they have said the have some updates/fixes, they have said they are working on items and not abandoned anything. People need to be patient.

Thanks VB. I'll just throw together a RPP daughter board and mount it to the sled just to prevent any issue that might come up.

Is the onboard fuse blowing the only built in protection the board has against putting one in backwards?

So I was going over the datasheet and posts one last time before I wire my first board and have a question I can not find a answer for. The datasheet states that when using duel 18650's if one is put in backwards it will pop the fuse to protect it. I know there is a wiring diagram by MAMU that shows how to wire in RPP on the 18650's. I have all the parts to wire it and actually make it a daughter board that will sit on the sled, but I was wondering if the fuse will pop on the board if it's not used. Sorry if this has been answered before but I want to cover all the bases before I start finishing this box. Thanks Mike

I sent them an email also. I figured I would throw this out in the forum while I waited for a reply.

This may be a shot in the dark but I'm going to ask. I'm looking for a dead 200 Board. One that has no hope of being fixed or replaced to use as a mockup piece for projects and enclosure development. If you have one please let me know. Thanks Mike

Updates are not as easy as many may think. Even the smallest change requires thorough testing which could take just a couple weeks to several months. Putting anything out that has not had this type of testing would be negligent and could possibly cause more issues then enhancements. I want an update and improvements as much as everyone one else but will pass on anything that is just thrown out there to satisfy customers. Just my opinion as a Software Developer/Network Engineer

I just wanted to give Protovapor a shoutout for their awesome customer service. I ordered a 200 retail box just before Xmas. When I received it I gave it a once over and put it up to wait on the rest of my parts. The rest of my parts came in Monday so Tuesday I got the board out to do a closer inspection and noticed that the plastic lock down tab on the screen ribbons zif socket was not there making it impossible to lock it down. I emailed them immediately asking if this was a issue I needed to work with them to get a replacement or Evolv. I received a email about an hour later saying they already had a replacement ready to go out with the next shipment and to send the damaged board back once I got it. There are a lot of companies that could learn a lot about proper CS from Protovapor.

WOW! Didn't notice he was using .022

Yes. I was running late this morning & didn't have time to reword it.

So I decided to add heatsinks to the 2 main chips on my board. I found some nice little solid copper ones that have thermal tape already on the back and figured I would share. I sacrificed one by cutting it in half to make sure they were indeed solid copper and not just coated. They need no modification and are so close to an exact fit it was scary because I figured I would have to do some cutting to get the size/fit to be perfect. Heatsinks http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00637X42A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Just to toss another question at you. Acrylic ring around the 510? I'm in the process of building a box and this might be a cool add on. If you don't mind sharing your process of course.

Just wanted to say thanks mamu. Going to add this to the current build I'm working on just for the hell of it.

My mod resistance came out at .003 with the copper plug and that is what I have it set at and my readings are dead on. For the serial number I have 5612 and it is v2 with the gold plated SS 510.

They better not be coming out with a new board yet, I just ordered my first DNA 200 for my first diy project. Lol Figured it was time to build instead of just using.

I agree. I run my own test and settings and that is truly the only way to get as close as possible. However there is a large percentage of vapers that cannot do this for one reason or another so there has to be a starting point for them. From there they can fine tune their setup via EScribe. It would be nice if there was a single file for this instead of the dozens floating around the net.