Temp control Issue

[djcapi246]

I'm having a problem with my M17 DNA 200.  For some reason, it won't hit Temp Limit that I set, and goes past it.  I hooked it up to escribe, and did (3) four second puffs.  The first  2 puffs it went over the limit and the 3rd time it stayed up as well.  Then I went in for a 4th and it just went into temp control.

Is this normal?  I'm pretty upset that my Efusion Duo that cost me $150 works better than a "high end" $350 mod.  I already had to return the mod because the first DNA 200 board wouldn't charge, so I want to be sure this is user error and not something wrong with the mod yet again.

I'm running a SS316L core with 32g KA1 wrapped clapton if it matters.

Thanks for any help, screenshot below of the reading in device manager.  

[BillW50]

How stable is your Atomizer Analyzer? I quit using SS before I got any DNA200 mods, so I don't know what it looks like or acts like. I do hear that the newest firmware (which isn't released yet) does SS TC a lot better.

[djcapi246]

The atomizer analyzer is pretty steady. It doesn't really bounce around. I have an efusion duo which the build works flawless on hence why I believe there is something erong with the M17 just not sure how to fix it. Thanks for the reply!

[wiredl0ve]

The M17 uses a varitube 510.  I believe that the varitube 510 has a brass center pin.  

The very first thing I'd do is clean it all, threads and center pin.  

On my mods, I also apply a very very light coating of NO OX ID A-Special with a q-tip.  It's very little, just enough to coat but not see the grease.   

[black lace]

BillW50 said:

How stable is your Atomizer Analyzer? I quit using SS before I got any DNA200 mods, so I don't know what it looks like or acts like. I do hear that the newest firmware (which isn't released yet) does SS TC a lot better.

Pretty much my stainless efforts look alot like that aswell, might be an idear to have a look at your connection to 510 centerpin inside the mod, .. is the power out conected to the bottom of the 510 centerpin or is it soldered to a metal end cap. Also people are turning off or right down their pre heat punch,, that may calm it a little. But Power set in the 90s its gonna fly up there, have you not tried bringing it down to say 45watt and then work your way up and see if it vapes steadier and gets a smoother picture. food for thought though, i can have a nice steady vape off an atty for days and then connecting to dm can see its all over the place..

[djcapi246]

@wiredl0ve

I cleaned all around it and then slightly nudged the pin up a bit, seemed to connect.  The TC was still pretty much all over.  Even to the point of cutting out @ 800F (per device monitor) and then staying temp protected for the next 2-3 minutes.  I contacted Axis Vapes and I now have to send it back to them (again) because he stated that it could be that the spring is toast.  He stated the spring carries the power load and may have fused together not allowing the 510 to return to the normal position.  Not sure if any of this is possible as I can build coils and DIY Ejuice, but I'm dumber than dirt with Mods, and how they work.

@black lace

Funny enough, my Efusion DNA200 runs smooth with the same atty on it as the M17.  I am new to TC so I'll try out settings you mentioned, but on the Efusion, its a nice flavorful warm vape at the settings I have it on (same as the M17 settings, but it actually works).  As far as the way it's wired, I have no clue as I don't believe there is a way to open the M17.  I'm pretty disappointed with this product for the money honestly.  Beautiful device, but this being the 2nd time I've had to ship it back in 2 weeks (I've used it a total of 12 hours since purchasing it), I would love a refund so I can drop the money on a HOBOX or a LITT 44 if they ever become available again.

[dwcraig1]

Axis Vapes site states that they use a Varitube 22 mm flat 510. I have one in front of me and the output wire gets soldered into the 510 pin same as a FDV v3 and just about all others. Still could be a problem with the spring or the insulator (from excessive heat) but the spring is not part of the electrical path.
I'd be checking this with atomizer analyzer in EScribe as well a comparing live ohms and cold ohms between the two mods using the same (cooled) atty in device monitor. Note the percentage the ohms changes from cold to hot with same settings.
Also what is mod resistance set to on the M17?

[black lace]

The thing i was on about with the power out not going to the center of 510 pin and rather the end cap was ive seen a few connected the later, i belive it is probly down to individuals on the production line found a quick way of wiering it up not knowing that the spring would then become part of the equasion. Djcapi246;; i'm having great results with the Nife30 from stealth vape as a temp control wire, its a real doddle to make coils with and very reliable and you can realy fine tune your temp and wattage for a perfect device monitor picture, (picture as in visual performance observation)

[djcapi246]

dwcraig1 said:

Axis Vapes site states that they use a Varitube 22 mm flat 510. I have one in front of me and the output wire gets soldered into the 510 pin same as a FDV v3 and just about all others. Still could be a problem with the spring or the insulator (from excessive heat) but the spring is not part of the electrical path.
I'd be checking this with atomizer analyzer in EScribe as well a comparing live ohms and cold ohms between the two mods using the same (cooled) atty in device monitor. Note the percentage the ohms changes from cold to hot with same settings.
Also what is mod resistance set to on the M17?

Whoa lots of info for my dumb brain.  Ok, here goes nothing:

I don't have escribe with me (I'm at work), as far as mod resistance goes on the M17, they had it set to .009;  I purchased that copper 510 pin thing to short the mod for the true mod resistance that was mentioned on this forum and got .006.  So it's set at .006 at the moment.  The efusion duo reads the atty ohms @ .2 and the M17 reads it at .25-  when I was running the atomizer analyzer last night, it wasn't bouncing all over but it did go up and down a bit (I thought that was due to room temp though), I have screen shots of both while being fired with the same atty and same build if interested

[djcapi246]

black lace said:

The thing i was on about with the power out not going to the center of 510 pin and rather the end cap was ive seen a few connected the later, i belive it is probly down to individuals on the production line found a quick way of wiering it up not knowing that the spring would then become part of the equasion. Djcapi246;; i'm having great results with the Nife30 from stealth vape as a temp control wire, its a real doddle to make coils with and very reliable and you can realy fine tune your temp and wattage for a perfect device monitor picture, (picture as in visual performance observation)

Aww do not tell me that!!! LOL-  I am loving SS316L so much I ordered a few different gauges (100' spools) to clapton with them;  well, time to find some Nife30...  haha

[black lace]

I know were all weird geeks on here, lol.. Now that you said not bouncing around, its obviously down to the coil build and whatevere on, i dont use stainless rule of thumb, i drag it out now and then and have a bash when i see a coil build i fancy building and then revert back to my own comfort zone Ni200 & Nife30

[djcapi246]

black lace said:

I know were all weird geeks on here, lol.. Now that you said not bouncing around, its obviously down to the coil build and whatevere on, i dont use stainless rule of thumb, i drag it out now and then and have a bash when i see a coil build i fancy building and then revert back to my own comfort zone Ni200 & Nife30

I think what I meant as not bouncing around is at cold ohms.  It does go up when it's heated.  The build, coil, material, atty all work on my efusion, just not on the M17.  I have since sent the device off again, and if I have a problem with it again, I will be looking for a refund.  $375 on a mod that does not function properly is upsetting.

[black lace]

What ever suits you is fine by me and everyone els, first rule of vape club, its your vape and how you enjoy it. i like the Ni200 & the Nife30 i have my atty set up so dm will show a steady one second ramp up and plant a perfect stesdy straight line parallal too and just under my max temp control line for a few seconds, perfect,,,

[djcapi246]

black lace said:

What ever suits you is fine by me and everyone els, first rule of vape club, its your vape and how you enjoy it. i like the Ni200 & the Nife30 i have my atty set up so dm will show a steady one second ramp up and plant a perfect stesdy straight line parallal too and just under my max temp control line for a few seconds, perfect,,,

That sounds great!! I'm currently looking for Nife30 (what gauge do you recommend?).  I have Ni200, but can't get a build to work for me yet.

[black lace]

I get it from stealth vape uk, if you google it. i use 28 guage .32 mm single coiling small macro coils for rta's like kayfun russians .... and for larger coils on single coil rdtas like lemo 2 and occasionaly subtant, some i use 26 guage .40mm, but still also use 28 on twin coiling some drippers and my latest atty an aromatize i have used both the 26 and 28 and also twisted 28 and pretty much do the same with Ni200. Sos am on mobile so do not have screen space. Did you say what attomisers are you using? the main thing with temp control im sure you know is a good solid connection. when evolv first bought out temp control with the dna40 they couldnt emphasise enough how important a sound connection is, it tends to be assumed these days that everyone knows, but its often overlooked. stainless, i dont think you could have chose a moor tempermental material,, but wear all different. With updates available the boards allways going to be the same no matter what enclosure goes around it, so you only really need look at resistance, loss, connection, from the top of the board to your 510 on mod, then its down to the atty. and your coil building, and don't wick it to tightly or you wont get any juice in there and it will be different every drag.

 
a steady consistent flow of juice helps..

[djcapi246]

black lace said:

I get it from stealth vape uk, if you google it. i use 28 guage .32 mm single coiling small macro coils for rta's like kayfun russians .... and for larger coils on single coil rdtas like lemo 2 and occasionaly subtant, some i use 26 guage .40mm, but still also use 28 on twin coiling some drippers and my latest atty an aromatize i have used both the 26 and 28 and also twisted 28 and pretty much do the same with Ni200. Sos am on mobile so do not have screen space. Did you say what attomisers are you using? the main thing with temp control im sure you know is a good solid connection. when evolv first bought out temp control with the dna40 they couldnt emphasise enough how important a sound connection is, it tends to be assumed these days that everyone knows, but its often overlooked. stainless, i dont think you could have chose a moor tempermental material,, but wear all different. With updates available the boards allways going to be the same no matter what enclosure goes around it, so you only really need look at resistance, loss, connection, from the top of the board to your 510 on mod, then its down to the atty. and your coil building, and don't wick it to tightly or you wont get any juice in there and it will be different every drag.

 
a steady consistent flow of juice helps..

Im using an authentic velocity v2 rda. I think its most definitely the 510 in the M17 then because like i said, it works flawlessly on the efusion duo. I even built a SS316L core with nichrome 80 wrapped around it clapton, tossed it in the thereom rda and thats also working great. Ill give ni200 a try and ill defijitely order some nife and see how that works. I also have some titanium to see if i get a steadier TC vape. Thanks for all the help.

[black lace]

You know because you sound so conversant with coil building, i dont think you would have any problem takling the 510 or at least cobbling somthing together to check the mod resistance. might be somthing simple like a sticking center pin (it does travel up and down with a bit of spring loaded ressistance doesnt it?) Sorry to state the obviouse but sometimes ,,, ect,,,

[djcapi246]

black lace said:

You know because you sound so conversant with coil building, i dont think you would have any problem takling the 510 or at least cobbling somthing together to check the mod resistance.

I used that copper pin with 510 threading that was mentioned on a thread here to check it. Manufacturer had it at .009, the mod resistance read .006 when I tried it out with the copper pin. Didnt matter which one i went with, it still didnt want to fire it correctly. I should have the m17 back in a week or so, hopefully itll be the last time it has to go back bc if it has to again Im requesting a refund.

[black lace]

Yes i dont blame you, i would recomend building your own to your own spec, you can use all the top end parts and still save money, ive never bought a tc mod only a wooden mech mod a few years ago and still use it, nothing in it to break down,,, built loads of tc mods, thousands of pounds worth.. now that i can build them i would never buy one, its just a tool for a job, i'll drop a pic next time im on a computer...all the best to ya... edit.. oh yeh the plain boards have allways been set at .00 obviously, and when ive checked and set theyve been .004/.005 so ive set accordingly, my stainless incarnations did benefit a bit but no noticeable supper critical difference on any other material..