wiredl0ve

I'll bite. When you reset it in escribe, does it require another button push for it to continuously fire? Or is it now always firing? Stuck button? Can you tap the back side of it and getting it to stop firing? Pry up on the fire button a little with something non-damaging - like a guitar pick? Or use some cellophane tape and apply to the button then pull up on the tape to pull the button out a little. If the above works, take the batteries out and push in on the fire button and then pry it back up with aforementioned guitar pick... rinse, repeat, see if it works its way loose? If none of the above works, and since this device is recently released, I assume it's still under warranty. Contact the seller and/or thinkvape?

Thanks. I like it - until the next new great mod, chip, device, etc comes along. *I can stop any time I want... *

Your VT Box looks like my VT Box. Hmm.. I may need to go dig up my vapeocalypse stash from the secret hidden location in the woods.

Alpinetech P+ modsledz tray modsledz board mount Varitube V1 10mm (padless) Samsung 25Rs

It's one of two brand+model of mods that I've bought more than 2 of in case of vapocolopyse.

By now Bill's bought at least 20 more VT133s.

That looks like flux residue that wasn't properly cleaned from the board. Pure rosin flux isn't normally that bad, but you have no way of knowing what type of flux that is and it looks like the flux was burned. There also looks to be some melting on the jst connector where the tip of the soldering iron was pushed against it while either soldering or re-flowing the solder on the positive battery pad and I'm not even sure what the chunk is by the fuse, but I'd get that cleaned off too. I usually use everclear(or any PGA) to clean flux by applying some to a brush and the rest of the bottle to me. I'm not sure if the PCBs ever come clean, but I'm too drunk to care at that point.

I'm beginning to get the impression that you don't like 18650 batteries.

Probably. I've got a handful of the Cisco's, just haven't installed them on anything but the one. I think my biggest problem was getting the c-clip into position on all sides keeping it from popping out on one side or the other. Visually, it would look installed, but I don't think I was pushing it down and out hard enough. The final time it took, so I think it's just a matter of being forceful with it and not trying to baby it into place.

I have two duos (heh) one on sp2, one I updated yesterday to sp3 to test for you. Neither have in the past, or currently, exhibit this behavior. Have you tried swapping the lipo in place of the 2 cell sled. It should have been included in your box and you'll need to change the settings from 2-cell to 3-cell in escribe. It sounds like something is shorted, but, as stated above, the mod should be pretty hot if you're losing battery that quickly. For reference, dual 18650 samsung 25r's run for about 3 days before I get nervous and swap them. Currently, I run a single coil .43 ohm at 60watts, 80watt preheat, 1 second, about 480 - 500 degrees F, SS316.

I wonder if they make EZOUTs that small

The Evolv. I had similiar problems as Scooby w/ the cisco, but I think it's just tricky to get it seated right. It took several tries, and I suspect there's a trick to it, but I haven't used but one and it's not enough to figure out what the trick is.

The rubber band between the screwdriver tip and screwhead fills in the space and provides some friction, to answer the 'how would it help' question. I've had some success with higher end gel-type super glues and gluing the tip into small screws. Epoxy, as suggested above would work (and if it's really bad would work better), but super glue is faster and can be heated after the screw is removed to destroy the bond between the screwdriver and screw. Just don't glue the screw into the box.

The issue is that 'diy' builds can mean you want something anywhere from drilling, cutting, and dremeling a hammond box yourself all the way to assembling a kit w/ a lot of other options in between. Modcrate has a 'kit' that you can buy. if this is your first build, I'd recommend a kit from them or another outfit, but either way their kit lists the parts you'd need for a dna200 build, depending on what you want. https://modcrate.myshopify.com/collections/basic-box-mod-kit/products/modcrate-dna-200-silo-1300-box-mod-kit-solid-colors?variant=17401878084 Ebay is also a good source for pre-drilled hammond boxes and I've even seen some nice pre-drilled stabwood diy boxes recently. I'd recommend either protovapor's Evolv 510 or cisco's 510, both are excellent. The varitube 510 v2 is also a nice choice, the v2 has a much stiffer spring. http://www.protovapor.com/product/evolv-510-connector/ http://www.avidvaper.com/cisco-510-connector/ http://www.varitube.com/VT-510-V2-Connector--Self-adjusting-Center-Pin_p_364.html

Granny?!

It's not always necessary to express every thought you have.

Another vote for "Mine work fine too." and a +1 [Liked] Windows doesn't bother me, nor does running VMWare Fusion. It's much better than VirtualPC was. It seems like the firmware updates really aren't as important on escribe capable devices like they are on other devices that don't have the ability to add new materials. Maybe that's just me.

I picked up a few more vt133's myself. Also, if I have a mod like the Efusion Duo w/out reverse battery protection, I like making a good visual indicator to help prevent battery insertion mistakes. I strip the shrink wrap and paint red rings on the batteries, then re-wrap in clear shrink wrap and then paint red indicators on the mod's battery tray -->

I'd vote for the recovery charge before I went and put any cleaning materials on the board. You would see the juice on the board if there was any. I had a similar problem with one of the fullymax 900mah packs and it came with one or more of the cells being severely discharged. The DNA 200 wasn't too happy about it. I ended up using an SkyRC iMAX charger on it, setting it to cycle a few times.

The M17 uses a varitube 510. I believe that the varitube 510 has a brass center pin. The very first thing I'd do is clean it all, threads and center pin. On my mods, I also apply a very very light coating of NO OX ID A-Special with a q-tip. It's very little, just enough to coat but not see the grease.

Griffin, Griffin 25s, testing the Tornado. Have used the Serpent, Billow V2, others... too many others across the years on different things.

I can list all all the mistakes I made in the process to make you feel better. Th Cisco added height since it doesn't fit into the cutout they have for their 510. I'd guess it's 20mm not 22. My soldering iron touched a couple of places on the battery sled. I was lazy and didn't remove the sled first. I actually used some bondic on the capture ring to hold it in the correct orientation while screwing in the Cisco screws. Hcigar used a metric crap-ton of solder on the negative of the 510. My 70 watt iron on high had a hard time motivating that large of a blob to reflow. :/ Either way I still love this mod - the dual 18650s is plenty and I love being able to swap them out without carry around the wisBricks I own.

Had to file the brass capture ring to fit behind the sled and drill the additional holes but it does fit.

I'll let you know. I'm not fond of the 510 connector on the mod - really it's the only thing I don't like.

FWIW, mine looks a little cleaner than yours, especially the stuff on the plastics. The geekvape t-tool large hex fit perfectly (whatever size that actually is). I'd love to swap their 510 with a Cisco 510, it looks like there's enough room to do so.