Therion 166 temp control problem.

[giz_60]

When I switched to DNA devices, I quit using my Avacado because of the multiple joints that the resistance has to pass through to get to the mod...on all the attys I use, the 510 pin on the deck makes direct contact to the 510 center pin on the device...but thats just me...

[VapePanther]

Yea, im gonna vape on this fuji to see if i get the same problem while I check the avocado.  Im hoping its the 510 pin and screw because thats my favorite tank and i dont want to have to stop using it.

[VapePanther]

giz_60 said:

When I switched to DNA devices, I quit using my Avacado because of the multiple joints that the resistance has to pass through to get to the mod...on all the attys I use, the 510 pin on the deck makes direct contact to the 510 center pin on the device...but thats just me...

I think I may be doing the same...

Any rdtas you would reccomend?

[giz_60]

Being that you are using a 3 core clapton, thats alot of metal to heat up...you might want to change the settings in your profile...

Power - 167
Preheat - 167
Punch - 11
Time Limit - 3 secs.

This will get the coil up to temp quick & then the board will do its job & throttle back the wattage to maintain temp. In the Mod tab, at the top, there is a 'Kanthal Power Limit'..if you set this to a wattage you are comfy with, if it drops into Power mode, it won't cook yer lips...

[giz_60]

Personally, I use mostly Steam Crave attys & also have a Merlin Mini that I use on my VT75 Nano...and the Ammit...

[VapePanther]

giz_60 said:

Being that you are using a 3 core clapton, thats alot of metal to heat up...you might want to change the settings in your profile...

Power - 167
Preheat - 167
Punch - 11
Time Limit - 3 secs.

This will get the coil up to temp quick & then the board will do its job & throttle back the wattage to maintain temp. In the Mod tab, at the top, there is a 'Kanthal Power Limit'..if you set this to a wattage you are comfy with, if it drops into Power mode, it won't cook yer lips...

That works well.  Thanks for all your help, I appreciate it.

[giz_60]

[Wayneo]

@VapePanther do ya mind 1 last DM print screen for sh17s and giggles  

If you're getting nic'd out ... rest mod beside you ... bottom right hand corner .... puff for 4 second. 

[VapePanther]

Sure  

[Wayneo]

Alrighty then, so it looks like your coil needs somewhere around what your 'power' line shows (inverted green 'v') to maintain that temp. If that's sort of YOUR typical coil build, you can lower those maximums to more reasonable values. If you don't want as quick a ramp up, lower your punch slowly till you find your sweet spot.

Once you set your 'thermal' calibration, it gets even more consistent

[VapePanther]

Wayneo said:

Alrighty then, so it looks like your coil needs somewhere around what your 'power' line shows (inverted green 'v') to maintain that temp. If that's sort of YOUR typical coil build, you can lower those maximums to more reasonable values. If you don't want as quick a ramp up, lower your punch slowly till you find your sweet spot.   

Thanks for the tip.

[Spector NS5 RD]

just a side note, if your SET wattage is equal to or exceeds your preheat power setting, all of your preheat settings (power, time, punch) become ineffective. 

[Wayneo]

Thanks man, I knew I forgot to mention that  

[giz_60]

ChunkyButt200 said:

just a side note, if your SET wattage is equal to or exceeds your preheat power setting, all of your preheat settings (power, time, punch) become ineffective. 

That's probably true with 316L, but I have found that with Nifethal 70, which I use exclusively & which has a much lower resistivity than SS, if I lower the SET power below the preheat power, it takes slightly longer to reach temp. On the these screenshots, the preheat in all puffs is set at 75...but I could be missing something & it wouldn't be the first time...   The last screenshot is changing the preheat power settings...

                                                 CHANGING POWER (WATT) SETTING

 
 
 
                                             CHANGING PREHEAT POWER SETTING

 

[Asmodeus]

Could possibly be unrelated. But I have a Coilart Mage RDTA and it screws apart so you can fill the little bottom section. It essentially has 2 510 pins that meet in the center because you can use it as a normal RDA by screwing off the tank and installing a plate. Man do I seriously have to crank that thing down or it has issues with the DNA. I have to loosen it from the 510 on the mod and then hold the bottom and top and crank against the airflow stops with both hands to really snug it up. I'm using 316L claptons in it from advanced vape supply. Everything inside that atty is gold plated. The entire deck and clamps etc. It should be ideal for TC theoretically. I isolated it to the center pin halves after a lot of troubleshooting. RDTA's made a bit of a resurgence lately, so if yours screws apart, and you're using a wire like 316L. Everything has to be really right. The DNA is so accurate it's "picky".