Asmodeus

Just wanted to point out for posterity, I put in a ticket, sent it out, and they had it back in a day or two running. Evolv is serious business. They really took care of me. Credit where it's due. Thank you. I really appreciate you guys.

Yup, seems like a plan. Just did that. Not sure how it fragged. It wasn't a horrible tumbling drop onto concrete. It was about 3ft onto carpet. And the Starss box is pretty solid. I don't SEE anything, but I didn't pull the board from the holder, just slipped it out to have a look with a light. I've had ZERO issues with this box or board so far. First time I dropped it too. (I've been using it since April) I've tipped it over. But this was the first time it has actually fallen any distance. My luck lately has been, well... *sigh*... one thing after another for the last month... just unrelenting... lol!

It smells like something arc'd in it when it's opened up. Faintly. Very mild electrical short / burn smell. Fuse passes continuity test as far as I can tell. No clue.

Round. Cell 1 = 0 Cell 2 = 5v (which is usb input, I'm assuming.) The Starss box is set up to run either with a quick swap of parts. I checked the output + and - from the pack at the tray before it sees the board and it's 8.X volts. So the pack and or battery tray isn't the issue. It's something else. What I don't understand is how the board powers on if you hold the fire button. And it shows 2-3v on the device so long as you hold the button down and have pack voltage on the display. It fluctuates but will not fire obviously because it's seeing too low of a voltage. It does not register the atomizer either. You cannot run atomizer analyzer. Same atty (VV Pyro) fires on the DNA 250 I built. No problem. The drop didn't effect it at all.

It's a Starss DNA 200. I had it plugged into escribe on a short cord to update a profile and I knocked it off the desk when I went to pick it up. It will power up if I hold the power button IN, but it shows like 3.x V on the screen and as soon as I let the button go it turns off. Not sure what broke. Plugging it into USB will keep it on and it shows 5V. I have tried unplugging the battery tray and connector at the board. And reconnecting. I checked the inside of the battery try wiring and it doesn't appear to have lost a wire, but I'm not 100% certain. It won't do an atomizer test, but will do device monitor. Think I lost a ground? Not sure what would cause it to only turn on while the power button is held in. It fell on it's side flat. Screen works. Don't see any solder's off. Really uncertain where to look. It gets power, but only if the fire button is held. (enough to turn on only) What did I kill? It will read / write to the chip. I wiped / restored defaults. And reloaded the profiles and settings. It 'works'. But something is hosed.

It may. I dry burn a coil every two days at about 50-70W. Full screaming red hot - then quench it under water and scrub with dawn and a tooth brush. I usually get about a month out of them or so. They are big clunkers, fused clapton between twisted, or clapton and fused clapton. .06-.09ohm. 3.5-4mm ID. I burn them when I form them. So... maybe I just never notice. I think the gray is the crud you aren't getting off... because when I scrub them for the first week or two they come out shiny still. Is there an issue with bumping the temp 20-30*? Why don't you just burn them in the beginning when you make them, that way once it's set - it's set even if you burn them to clean them? The DNA will hold your desired temp like a boss. So isn't faster better anyway?

If I would have seen that before I built my own enclosure - I would have bought that instead... So, looking at the Oni, and the Player. It appears they are the exact same. But it also seems the plates, pieces, buttons etc are pretty much out of stock. $75 is kinda nuts considering that's what the board costs. I'd rather have the blue one and the DNA 250... but I could buy 2 of those. *sigh*. Guess I'll have to think about it. That's a good price. I think I'm gonna do it just to have a back up.

I like the shiny blue one. It's a dual 18650 DNA 250 mod. About the size of my P+ case. Despite the fact it's going to be the worst juice/fingerprint magnet on earth. Does anyone have one, or have any feedback? I see a lot of threads on Lost Vape and other 'produced' mods with DNA boards in them, but no Oni. https://www.elementvape.com/asmodus-oni-167w-dna250-tc-box-mod I could use that one for my 18650's and strip apart my P+ build, LiPo it, and then put a squonking 510 in it. (Since I already have it apart to fix it anyway.)

I ripped it apart. The 510, which obviously had loc-tite on it, well she came out kicking and screaming. The loc-tite did it. It creeped down into the ground ring and must have caused the issue. I hit the majority of the main connections just to be certain. Pack positive and ground. Out put and chassis ground. I was really wrestling with it to get the 510 out, and things didn't look as solid as they were before I started. I cut a groove in the 510 to lock in place with a screw driver, so I could hold the nut with pliers, and finally cracked it loose. After cleaning it up a little and chasing the threads which were super wrecked. I had to know whether it was shot or not. Grabbed an expendible atty and crammed it all back in the case. As of this moment it works. In TC. With SS. Soooooo.... Don't use loc-tite. Which is a damn shame actually because I was able to crank an old atty down with vice grips and it wouldn't ?back spin the 510 loose. It bent the SS posts on the deck if that gives you any idea the amount of torque I was able to apply without having the 510 turn when I broke the atty loose. I already have 510's coming in so some glue to reset it and zip that pad off and I should* be rolling again. Assuming I don't screw anything else up. Which would be a big assumption I guess.

Thanks for that. I had an idea about the battery meter being tied to pack voltage that I think would be a snap for 18650 guys. (Instead of the battery calibration) Maybe they'll consider giving us round cell guys a more casual battery meter option. (I hope!)

No problem. I won't then. Do we think there's a minute possibility of a software issue from the scrambled numbers appearing on the screen before it pooped? Is there a way to do a global save / like for all my settings on the device and maybe do a factory reset? Or are we all pretty sure the 510 is hosed? (Either from heat or loc-tite) It's a VT V2. I didn't nuke it with the iron, and I let it cool between each process. But you never know.

No more thinking. Just answer what we need to know so we can rule things out... Are the batteries that you are using the EXACT same manufacturer, type, and have only ever been used and charged as a pair? Yes or No. This is a known good, mated set of batteries. If not, then it is going to be impossible to rule out the batteries themselves until you put a NEW, matched set of batteries of good quality in the device. The DNA is a smart smart little chip. It knows when things aren't right.

My 510 is grounded via ring terminal under the 510 nut against the enclosure ceiling. I put the loc-tite mostly under the pad of the 510 itself against the top flat surface of the box, and a very small amount on the threads. I'm not entirely sure if it would break the connection or not. I did wonder. I'm trying to include anything I did in case I buggered it up. But having the 510 back off with the atomizer on Easter reminded me this can still happen, when... well, it did. Because you can't really get to the nut with pliers (AplineTech P+ box, in 18650 config) tightening the 510 is a little awkward. I use an old Igo F? which is maybe 10mm in diameter threaded into the 510 and spin the (510) top in slowly after making the + connection outside the enclosure hole with my free length of wire. I can then grip the edge of the 510 pad that over hangs the door (real real hard with my fingers) and crack the Igo loose with pliers. It's dodgy at best and never really allowed me to crank on it, so I figured a little (blue) loc-tite under the pad and the smallest amount on the threads would give it some extra staying power without having to try to force pliers into a space they don't really fit. I plugged the DNA into the comp at my workstation and it reads nada on the 510. My board + & - out are taped over so I don't know if I can short them directly. That won't blow the fuse correct? (My board mount is glued in... so... when it comes out it's pretty done-zo) And I really don't have the hands to try to do a fuse while it's inside. I wish I would have drilled the enclosure for screws and made everything pop in and out. Next one... I'll do a better job.

I had a string of numbers appear over the temperature numbers when vaping. Instead of 500*F it was 411223222 or something to that effect. It was too many numbers to fit in the space and I'm surprised I noticed. It did that a few times, then kicked me out of TC. 3 days ago the 510 loosened up from a tight RDA and I desoldered the positive connection, and put some loc-tite under the pad where it sits flat on the box top. Put it all back, everything was working fine, and honestly has been working a lot better since I went back in and touched up the pack wiring a few weeks ago. Switched to power mode and it was fine. I decided to piddle with it, took out the batteries, still no TC. No clue what's up. Try a different atty, no dice. And then it just gives me check atomizer and is basically done. It won't fire anything. I'm thinking the 510 died, but I don't understand why I was getting a number string on top of the temperature setting, then, poof 510 dies? I already ordered a few VT 510's just in case that was the problem. Could it have been the board though? Atomizer that was on it went on a different mod and fired no problem. If I killed the 510 when I desoldered it. Wouldn't it just have died on the spot? I didn't get any erratic performance giving me an indication other than the board spitting out gibberish then poof. I'm confused.

Could possibly be unrelated. But I have a Coilart Mage RDTA and it screws apart so you can fill the little bottom section. It essentially has 2 510 pins that meet in the center because you can use it as a normal RDA by screwing off the tank and installing a plate. Man do I seriously have to crank that thing down or it has issues with the DNA. I have to loosen it from the 510 on the mod and then hold the bottom and top and crank against the airflow stops with both hands to really snug it up. I'm using 316L claptons in it from advanced vape supply. Everything inside that atty is gold plated. The entire deck and clamps etc. It should be ideal for TC theoretically. I isolated it to the center pin halves after a lot of troubleshooting. RDTA's made a bit of a resurgence lately, so if yours screws apart, and you're using a wire like 316L. Everything has to be really right. The DNA is so accurate it's "picky".

Not sure. I hit the worked over areas with BC aluma-black and then applied a thin film of clear RTV to the entire edge of the case, then wiped it mostly off. The magnets turned black, as did the aluminum that I managed to scuff the anodizing off of. My magnets were chrome plated and when I tried to heat them to soften the epoxy. (With a soldering iron) it took a little of the plating off anyway. That's when I decided "whatever" and the grindy bits came out. Relieving the magnet holes like... O- may be the trick. Just running a teeny drill bit against the inside of the hole to give it a way to sink and allow the air out should work. I have a smaller routing bit I could run in the dremel, but I hate using it. Those little metal "hairs" always end up in me.

I masked off the interior and just took a Dremel to the offending magnets. They were only protruding a hair so I just knocked them down and my door sits flush now. The dust is obviously magnetic, and would be all through the inside wreaking havoc. So if you do it. Mask off the inside completely and take your time. I used? a worn out cut off disc and just feathered from the magnet out to my taped off portions. Then hit it with aluma-black. The dust will periodically ignite even if you are careful to wipe it away from the area you're working on. So be smart.

Which 510 is that? Fat daddy? I used a varitube V2 and I think it protrudes more into the enclosure. It is almost resting on my battery. I mean it is so so close. I want to do a pink or a green one. I was thinking of sanding off the anodizing in some places and using a chemical blackening agent to make it two tone. Glad you got yours figured out too. My magnets creeped out a hair as well. I used 5m epoxy. I let them sit hours and hours. Still have a teeny gap because of it. I wish there was a way to soften them up to get them out and back in. I'd really like to put the smallest film of RTV in the gap so that when the door is on and I'm dousing the atty under water it doesn't get in the door crack.

Ok. So there are days when I wish personal accountability wasn't an inherent counterbalance to my strong belief in personal freedom. Today is one of those days... I vaped some (new) LG HG2's down to where the car ride home had dropped the temps enough that I would touch into the check battery warning. These 20A batteries were essentially useless because around 3.8v (each) they were done-zo. I put them in the minikin v1.5 and screwed my atty on (.09 twice twisted 26g spaced). This is right around what it won't fire. No issues. Insert a long string of expletives. K. All done. I figured I'd Amazon prime up some parts and either way the DNA was coming apart... Now. Good thing my epoxy held to the anodized case - not at all. Lots of very gentle prying mm by mm and I snuck the battery tray out and began removing the contacts from it. And that's when I earned my (@ss) hat, which, I will now wear because of that infernal accountability thing... My pack bridge was... the cell tap. I went through the effort of stripping in the middle of the wire so it was exactly spaced perfectly on back side of the battery contacts, and the end perfectly soldered to the adjacent tab. And... must have been so satisfied with my cleanliness, I never actually bridged the contacts/pack with an appropriate gauge wire... So a small portion of a 22g wire resting neatly on the top side contacts was all that was letting current flow. So I'm dumb AF. Which, is usually the problem in life. Having trouble there little dude? Why yes, yes I am... It's cause you're stupid. Yes. Yes it is. After carefully balancing the tray on some tape I was able to put those same batteries back in and fire them in DM with barely any sag at all, and very little difference between them. After juicing the atty 2-3 times on the same batteries that gave me the issue before I started I declared victory, taped it back up and glued it back in with super glue. If I still have issues this tray is now almost destroyed and I will replace it. Image may not conform to the level of forum appropriateness, but it is appropriate for (me) this situation. Wearing the hat unless it genuinely bothers someone.

The one for the P+ actually has the shape of the enclosure kinda built into it. It fits in it's ordained spot perfectly. It's 3D printed so it's less durable than an injection molded one you linked. Like soldering on tabs already in place causes them to melt it almost instantly. Which I definitely did slightly. But the one they sell definitely has the advantage on putting everything exactly where it needs to be in that very very cramped enclosure. In some places a mm out of sorts would cause you an issue. So I don't know if I'd recommend using another one unless you know it fits perfectly.

Quite honestly internal charging is the least of my concerns. The only time I use the charging port is when it's plugged into DM to try to figure out what is wrong with it this time... I definitely flipped the position of the contacts so I would have more space at the 510, and it's still not enough. I have an atty or two that protrude enough that the throw on the insulator scrapes the tape on the output (510) wire and nearly touches the battery. I could have probably done a better job soldering that joint so it isn't so bulked up on the + 510. But to stick it I tinned the 510 first and I wanted the wire to attach vertically so it didn't twist and snag on things. Despite it's appearance, I don't believe it's the issue. What appears to be the issue is I have a bad connection in the battery tray from one of the cells. And I'm almost certain it's in the spot I have to break the sled out to get to. The bottom of my sled where 4 wires go to the board and are crammed in between the case and sled took a good bit of force to get into the case and even getting the wires to lay in the groove in the sled was a chore. If I screwed up somewhere. That's the most likely "where". I purchased a 900mah 3s lipo, I think it's a lousy efest unit. BUT. If you look in the show me thread there's a guy who crammed a 45c lipo in the P+ enclosure. /topic/65631-topic/?do=findComment&comment=887291 That looks like the biggest thing you could possibly cram in there and still use connectors. Did you bend your positive connectors from that tray? I reshaped them so they were round where the batteries make contact. Otherwise they would rip the wraps off the batteries. Mine are pretty tight and I made a battery pull so I didn't have to snatch at them either. You can clearly see that my right cell doesn't sit centered though. Part of that has to do with the sled being nearly broken out of the box. And the other is the torque from the wires against the case allowed it to drift slightly when the epoxy was setting up. I hit the batteries with a probe, then the connectors with a probe to see that what the battery cells were putting out was making it to the connectors, so in my case, the connections TO the cells are good enough. It has to be in my wires leading out. Which, I can't really get to while fumbling around with the mod, and trying to fire it and not short something. I'll try again when I don't have a bunch of other stuff going on at home distracting me to try to isolate it a little more. I need to re-read dwcraig's post 10 more times to figure out exactly where he wants me to probe it to figure out which cell. I obviously switched batteries and their positions and it's not "a bad cell" sagging. I have a LOT of 18650 batteries. Most of them are < a month old. So...

It may be easier to buy a new battery and board sled and chisel this stuff out of the epoxy. They are not that expensive. If I can get it all broken down I may be able to just soak the case in thinner and get the remainder (of the epoxy) off. The real question at that point though is... do I install the LiPo I bought just in case. Or continue with the 18650's and sled. I have so much $ in (18650) batteries at this point I don't want to give up. But I know if I just pop the LiPo in I'm done and it's good. *sigh*

Quite honestly this is pretty severe. These are HB6's and they have been through MAYBE 2 charge cycles. They are brand new. This is just what I have in there this second, and while I normally watch the pack voltage out of the corner of my eye now every so often. I have logged this before without as much deviation between cells, OR as much sag, period. As we both can see it is not long before I hit the low V cut off on a pull. Perhaps my bottom right + lead under the battery tray is not ideal.

But IIRC this is how I wired it. Essentially I saw a diagram but the batteries faced the other way and I just flipped it. In the AT P+ the positive on the battery near the 510 HAS to be where it is to give it enough stand off to clear. And it kinda screws you on the top right corner with the negative, but it just, and I mean just clears. It made more sense for all those wires to be closer to where they needed to go, and the only lead that had to make it's way down is a battery tap which can be smaller gauge. The positive and negative at the output side are long because then I could work on them outside the case and stuff them back in. The ground has a dot of glue holding it down so it doesn't bother the door. I would use smaller guage wire if I did it again because the pads on the chip and that gauge wire was difficult. A sliver of tape separates the joints. It was a "bugger".

V1.5 Maybe I'm a restart. I just assumed the little coil thingy. *shrugs* You can't really see anything here.