Asmodeus Posted April 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2017 I had a string of numbers appear over the temperature numbers when vaping. Instead of 500*F it was 411223222 or something to that effect. It was too many numbers to fit in the space and I'm surprised I noticed. It did that a few times, then kicked me out of TC. 3 days ago the 510 loosened up from a tight RDA and I desoldered the positive connection, and put some loc-tite under the pad where it sits flat on the box top. Put it all back, everything was working fine, and honestly has been working a lot better since I went back in and touched up the pack wiring a few weeks ago. Switched to power mode and it was fine. I decided to piddle with it, took out the batteries, still no TC. No clue what's up. Try a different atty, no dice. And then it just gives me check atomizer and is basically done. It won't fire anything. I'm thinking the 510 died, but I don't understand why I was getting a number string on top of the temperature setting, then, poof 510 dies? I already ordered a few VT 510's just in case that was the problem. Could it have been the board though? Atomizer that was on it went on a different mod and fired no problem. If I killed the 510 when I desoldered it. Wouldn't it just have died on the spot? I didn't get any erratic performance giving me an indication other than the board spitting out gibberish then poof. I'm confused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwcraig1 Posted April 19, 2017 Report Share Posted April 19, 2017 You might try using Atomizer Analyzer in EScribe, short the output and ground on the top of the board and see if it reads it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retird Posted April 19, 2017 Report Share Posted April 19, 2017 May not have anything to do with your issue but....Is Locktite non-conductive and does your 510 uses a chassis ground? Is the 510 grounded still? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asmodeus Posted April 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2017 My 510 is grounded via ring terminal under the 510 nut against the enclosure ceiling. I put the loc-tite mostly under the pad of the 510 itself against the top flat surface of the box, and a very small amount on the threads. I'm not entirely sure if it would break the connection or not. I did wonder. I'm trying to include anything I did in case I buggered it up. But having the 510 back off with the atomizer on Easter reminded me this can still happen, when... well, it did. Because you can't really get to the nut with pliers (AplineTech P+ box, in 18650 config) tightening the 510 is a little awkward. I use an old Igo F? which is maybe 10mm in diameter threaded into the 510 and spin the (510) top in slowly after making the + connection outside the enclosure hole with my free length of wire. I can then grip the edge of the 510 pad that over hangs the door (real real hard with my fingers) and crack the Igo loose with pliers. It's dodgy at best and never really allowed me to crank on it, so I figured a little (blue) loc-tite under the pad and the smallest amount on the threads would give it some extra staying power without having to try to force pliers into a space they don't really fit. I plugged the DNA into the comp at my workstation and it reads nada on the 510. My board + & - out are taped over so I don't know if I can short them directly. That won't blow the fuse correct? (My board mount is glued in... so... when it comes out it's pretty done-zo) And I really don't have the hands to try to do a fuse while it's inside. I wish I would have drilled the enclosure for screws and made everything pop in and out. Next one... I'll do a better job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwcraig1 Posted April 19, 2017 Report Share Posted April 19, 2017 " That won't blow the fuse correct?"You should't be pressing the fire button while shorting the two pads but it should protect it's self in case you do. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asmodeus Posted April 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2017 dwcraig1 said:" That won't blow the fuse correct?"You should't be pressing the fire button while shorting the two pads but it should protect it's self in case you do.No problem. I won't then. Do we think there's a minute possibility of a software issue from the scrambled numbers appearing on the screen before it pooped? Is there a way to do a global save / like for all my settings on the device and maybe do a factory reset? Or are we all pretty sure the 510 is hosed? (Either from heat or loc-tite) It's a VT V2. I didn't nuke it with the iron, and I let it cool between each process. But you never know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giz_60 Posted April 19, 2017 Report Share Posted April 19, 2017 I have seen the scrambled numbers before & it was because of wonky resistance issue with SS...You can always save your current settings to reload later by going to File>Save As...and of course, the Restore Defaults in Escribe will reset all the settings back to the Evolv defaults for the board....also, if you were to screw an atty onto the 510 & then check for resistance at the same spots DW is referring to, that should give you an indication if there is continuity through the 510 or not...just a thought... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giz_60 Posted April 19, 2017 Report Share Posted April 19, 2017 A side note about shorting the two terminals on the board...on the 250, it the resistance of whatever you are shorting it with is below .007?, then you are going to get the '?' when running the Atomizer Analyzer...same as an open circuit which gives a 'Check Atomizer' message with an atty attached... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asmodeus Posted April 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 I ripped it apart. The 510, which obviously had loc-tite on it, well she came out kicking and screaming. The loc-tite did it. It creeped down into the ground ring and must have caused the issue. I hit the majority of the main connections just to be certain. Pack positive and ground. Out put and chassis ground. I was really wrestling with it to get the 510 out, and things didn't look as solid as they were before I started. I cut a groove in the 510 to lock in place with a screw driver, so I could hold the nut with pliers, and finally cracked it loose. After cleaning it up a little and chasing the threads which were super wrecked. I had to know whether it was shot or not. Grabbed an expendible atty and crammed it all back in the case. As of this moment it works. In TC. With SS. Soooooo.... Don't use loc-tite. Which is a damn shame actually because I was able to crank an old atty down with vice grips and it wouldn't ?back spin the 510 loose. It bent the SS posts on the deck if that gives you any idea the amount of torque I was able to apply without having the 510 turn when I broke the atty loose. I already have 510's coming in so some glue to reset it and zip that pad off and I should* be rolling again. Assuming I don't screw anything else up. Which would be a big assumption I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giz_60 Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 Sometimes, what seems to be a good idea, turns out to be a nightmare... Good to hear you figured it out!Happy Vaping Not sure if you are aware, but there is a tool available for installing 510's...510 Install Tool 510 Installation ToolTwo-part design so that it won't get stuck after tightening. Compatible with all 510 connectors with a threaded body. 4mm key hole for tighter install. Can also be used on the V5s to extend the solder tail while soldering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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