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Proper use of Battery analyzer


bingbling

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Hi, what would be the proper use of battery analyzer? Can I attach just any RDA with a coil and run it or should I have some specific setup? I am a bit hesitant running it because I have heard some people having problems with heat and/or fried boards due to heat etc.

Also does it have a great effect on battery life/meter completing the analysis compared to just entering the numbers into the calc? I'm having some difficulties matching my HCigar VT200 battery specifications with real life figures. Entering specified 1300mAh into the calc (14.43) is way off for me, I am getting weak battery at ~25% battery left. So I am down to setting 1100mAh, which so far gives a more accurate battery meter.

Any advice please?

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bingbling said:

Right, so I don't have access to those kinda testbeds john is talking about. The thread you linked suggests air cooled coils, so quad coils with 24gauge should be able to handle the heat from 50watts.

Something like this? They should barely get warm, if at all. What do you think about that?



If you just use a big circular loop of thick wire in free air, it doesn't get that hot.  Making a coil reduces cooling efficiency and allows heat transfer from loop to loop.  If you have 24, try twisting 3 or 4 strands (what will fit in your atty) into one large circular loop.
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Mad Scientist said:

[QUOTE=bingbling]Right, so I don't have access to those kinda testbeds john is talking about. The thread you linked suggests air cooled coils, so quad coils with 24gauge should be able to handle the heat from 50watts.

Something like this? They should barely get warm, if at all. What do you think about that?



If you just use a big circular loop of thick wire in free air, it doesn't get that hot.  Making a coil reduces cooling efficiency and allows heat transfer from loop to loop.  If you have 24, try twisting 3 or 4 strands (what will fit in your atty) into one large circular loop.[/QUOTE]

Thank you for the tip, I might just do that and see what the outcome will be :)

lewisss said:

Hi, I have done the full test on my h cigar vt200 The reading came out at 11.09 The battery meter is spot on now. Search my posts Here you will find my battery CSv. It is a text file but if you save it as a CSv file it will work



I see, so the battery capacity is closer to 1000mAh than 1300mAh. There's a discussion going on e-cigaretteforum about this. Some people claim they ran the battery analyzer and have a setting of 14.43 (1300mAh), and their battery meter is 100% accurate according to them.

About using your CSV, would that really be totally accurate? 


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lewisss said:

Hi, I have done the full test on my h cigar vt200 The reading came out at 11.09 The battery meter is spot on now. Search my posts Here you will find my battery CSv. It is a text file but if you save it as a CSv file it will work



bingBling said:


I see, so the battery capacity is closer to 1000mAh than 1300mAh. There's a discussion going on e-cigaretteforum about this. Some people claim they ran the battery analyzer and have a setting of 14.43 (1300mAh), and their battery meter is 100% accurate according to them.

About using your CSV, would that really be totally accurate? 




well accurate for my device, 
I had the same issue where i was getting weak battery at about 20% at 14.43, and at 11.09 when it hits 0% i can get 4 or 5 vapes out of it before i get the weak battery , so it works for me.

the mod I have just made has a 2200mah turnigy nanotech A-spec in it and that should read 24.42 if it was 2200 mah
but the battery analyser came out to 23.62, so 0.8 lower or 3.3%(I can live with that) . but it had only had a couple of charge cycles so i will give it another run through in a week to see if it has changed.

the vt 200 worked out at 23% lower, ..... i am not so sure that is acceptable

this works out to a 1000mah battery
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FiB3R said:

[QUOTE=Popeye]Id be surprised if you got more than 1200mah tbh



That makes 2 of us. xD

Unfortunately, that doesn't answer any of my questions :)[/QUOTE]

yes that will work! i used 4 high power 1ohm resistors in a velocity, it will take anything between 1/2 an hour to an hour.

just make sure you don't leave it unattended when you do it, those wires will get hot and thats a fire risk
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lewisss said:

[QUOTE=FiB3R][QUOTE=Popeye]Id be surprised if you got more than 1200mah tbh



That makes 2 of us. xD

Unfortunately, that doesn't answer any of my questions :)[/QUOTE]

yes that will work! i used 4 high power 1ohm resistors in a velocity, it will take anything between 1/2 an hour to an hour.

just make sure you don't leave it unattended when you do it, those wires will get hot and thats a fire risk[/QUOTE]

Great, thanks for confirming that for me.

I'll have it sitting next to me the whole time, with a small desk fan directed at the wires :thumb:
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I recorded a couple of log files while doing this.

One while it still needed charging first, and was going to take too long at 0.5A

And a second one where it was almost ready to rock, and just needed a little extra before beginning the test.

Anyway, my question is, how do you correctly read the time stamps? It seems messed up to me.

http://ge.tt/9QpfT7P2


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Four resistors spreads out the heatload. One resistor will get pretty hot unless you use low watts. I used 100w and they got warm but you could still hold them comfortably.

4 resistors in parallel is more akin to the attys we run, but I dont know it makes much difference.

To me it all about heat dissipation and being able to run the test much faster.

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Really it all depends on "why" you are running the battery analyzer. If you just want to set your own battery once and forget it then go as cheap as you can. Really, the wH calculator comes pretty damn close for casual use. If you are going to be doing it multiple times then you might want to throw a proper heatsink at it.

I mounted mine to a 3lb aluminum heatsink, but then I want to be able to test multiple battery brands without waiting forever..

upload_2015-10-1_21-27-34.png

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