DannyK9

I can easily get a day out of the nano-tech running a conservative 40W on a standard dual 0.5ohm build.

MIne was a custom wooden floris box - Forgot to mention that

Turn the brightness setting up for the display issue it really is as simple as that[/QUOTE] Thanks, but that's crazy that you can't adjust the brightness without messing something up? By the sound of your prompt concise answer that this is a known, common, problem. Why has this not been resolved!?! I'll let you know if it helps as soon as I try it out. Thanks again, XenonRam[/QUOTE] It's well documented here in the early adaptors forum, i had the same issue but saw the same issues raised ny other people. For some strange reason i think the default is 0% on the brightness - moved mine up to 75% and the screens change to what i've set them too. Downside - When charging the display never goes out

My one died 48 hours ago, using Ni200 Preheat 200W Coil - 0.15 - 0.18 ohm Temp - 450 Watts - 30 Been sent back to modder to investigate

Turn the brightness setting up for the display issue it really is as simple as that

It will be the fuse - Small green thing next to B+ input, see if it has white line/s on it. USB powers the board as the USB is after the fuse. You cant rub the DNA of USB power only though.

Had exactly the same issue yesterday, been working flawless for weeks then just pop. In my case ; Ni200 - 0.15ohm Preheat - 200w Temp - 450 It had been running this for around a week with no issues and then pop - Fuse Blown Checked escribe last night - Batts were balanced and pack voltage was above nominal 11.8V Cant see an obvious reason for why but i did see some other thread regarding some hCigar ones going pop with Ni builds. Sending mine back to the modder for a new fuse, good job i kept a crappy old M80 for emergency use - People always slate the cheaper chinese stuff but hey ive not had one go wrong yet in 2 years DNA 200 ? Faulty within 2 months

These user needs to do one

It would appear the forum has been hacked ? Bloody Spam

Even with a blown fuse they should communicate with escribe, I've also been using Ni200 @ 0.12-0.23 with 200w preheat for about 3 weeks with no issue however mine is a custom box. Maybe the issue is HCigar ? Seems to be the only common link in your issue. Do you have any pics of build particularly the wiring and chip itself

Same issue I had software works in Wine but doesn't communicate. Ended up bootcamping

Great shout, makes sense to me

Sounds like a daft reply but do you know for certain the other ohm readers are accurate ? You could lock the ohms when it reaches 0.14 In general most ohm meters and devices I've dabbled with are almost always out by 0.1 .2 its no big deal

Would this not make the atomiser extremely hot ? It would work in theory but I'm sure most of these guys use heat sink boards with resistors for this reason.

Mine shows charging after about 2 seconds, I find if I hit the fire button though it interrupts the charging and then comes back after a couple of seconds. If I hit a +/_ button it doesn't effect it. Got mine set to First Line - Ohm Second Line - USB Output Third Line - Wh The battery charging icon stays the same regardless unless you set custom screens AFAIK

Fresh of the charger they would be 2500 @ 12.6V Not 11.1V

I'd love to get the resistance up some, however when running a dual vertical sleeper in Ni200 it gets a bit angry with the higher temps

In the atomiser analyser if you look next to kanthal ohms it says the temp (ni200) ohms.. You can also change the preheat if you want too? I'm not sure why your asking? What are you having problems with? it would be better if you posted screen shots of the graph rather than excel format although everything looks fine I don't know exactly what I'm looking for?[/QUOTE] It's not a problem as such - was just confused as to why it said (kanthal) but i now realise it also says (Temp) with ohms. if running Ni200 you dont really need to see the Kanthal ohms and vice versa if running Kanthal you dont need to see the Temp ohms. Im guessing it was easier for Evolv to program it that way.

Apologies if this has been asked before Could someone take a look a few screenshots / csv files to see if this is normal This is a Ni200 build yet the atomizer analyser says (kanthal) ? is this correct ? Also Preheat is set to 200 (Default) ? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. DNA2.xls DNA.xls

As far as i'm aware it always balance charges, lipos are supposed to be balanced charged. If you hook it up to escribe you can trace the charge amount of each battery and monitor, you can also change the DNA screen to show charging rate, voltage, pack voltage. I think anyway, someone more clued up will be along soon no doubt to assist further.

if you plug your DNA into the Mac does OS-X recognise it as a DNA ? I had similar issues when running escribe in Wine, ended up going down the bootcamp route.

Working fine for me on Win 10 - X64 Single Language Edition / Un Activated (Bootcamped Mac Pro Retina - El Capitan) and Win 8 - X32 Pro (Crappy Lenovo Thinkpad) Just a thought I did have an innitial problem with ecig stats hanging when first used on the Thinkpad maybe try disabling that.

When I first got my DNA200 it was set on 8wh which I thought was low for a 1400 3S so I done the maths and calculated it was 15.4wh so I set it to that, escribe also calculated this amount. However it doesn't seem to last any longer than when it was at 8wh, only difference being a slightly lower build. So I've no idea, as it stands I get around 12 hours vaping moderately at 30W is this good ? I suppose so.

I dont see the need for an OS-X version to be honest, yes it would be nice but it does work in Parellels running Win 10 and also bootcamp running Win 10. Agreed you might loose 25-30GB of HDD doing it this way but it does work. P.S Did I mention you dont need Keys for Win 10 - JUst download the X64 ISO from Microsoft and skip the part where it asks for Key, it will prompt again when finilising installation but skip it, you will end up with Win 10 not activated but from what i can see fully functional for zero cost.

Normally would the screen not light up even with a blown fuse ?