Havensal

That doesn't surprise me. Try to find another parts supplier that will service products that other companies built with their parts in it.

I have had two boards fail myself. Both lasted about a month. No idea the cause. I would assume that user error would show long before a month. I also have three other mods I have built with no issues (except the DNA40 screen scramble), one DNA40 and two Yihi boards.

I've had two boards die myself. Both at around a month old. The first just quit mid vape, and the replacement made a pop and then died. I looked for any shorts or bad solder joints. No errors or messages. It would be nice to get a quick note with the replacement to let me know what the issue was. Best I can tell neither were user error, but I would like to know for sure so I can prevent the error from reoccurring.

Mine is a DIY box. I could understand if the box was dropped or it happened right after assembly, but after a month you would think any cold solder joints or shorts would have already presented themselves.

My original board lasted just over a month. Just stopped working mid vape. Completely dead. I rebuilt the mod with the replacement just under a month ago. I was vaping on it yesterday and heard a pop. Now this board is completely dead. I haven't pulled the board yet to see if I can find the failed component. This is so frustrating. I love the board, but I cant afford to be tearing it apart and shipping the board back every month. It's not like I was running 200W, it was a single 28Ga TI coil in an Erlkönigin. I have already submitted a support ticket, I just need to vent a bit.

What does Escribe show for a status of each cell and total voltage?

Mine did the same thing last night. Vape, Vape, nothing. Nothing unusual and no fancy coil. I'll try forcing a firmware update tonight. Edit: Tried forcing an update, just says no device connected. What to do now?

I've noticed I have to set the temp on my DNA's higher than my Yihi devices to get the same vape. I don't know which is more accurate, and I don't really care. I just adjust it to my liking and vape.

I have been having problems with TI coils myself. Either extremely low vapor production or way to hot/catching on fire. I have learned a few things so far. Contact coils just don't work for me. Spaced coils seem more stable. Really tight connections are needed on the leads. Sometimes they will loosen up after a while. I am guessing that some connection issues are because TI is harder than NI so sometimes the post screws will not grab the leads well. I've been playing with TI for about a week now. I am starting to get great results, but consistency is still questionable.

That's what I'm thinking, you can set the increments in the software to whatever you want.

Are they owned by Apple?

Would it be possible to have a setting in the software to change the increments for wattage adjustments and temp adjustments. .1W increments seems just silly to me, .5W or even 1W would serve me better. Also 1* or even 5* increments would be nice as well. Just a thought.

Is the board supposed to tick when analyzing the atomizer? Is it polling once per second? I just updated the firmware to 7/29 and this is the first time I noticed it. I have it the atty shorted to check the mod resistance.

I understand your frustration. I know in my case, and I would assume many others, I cant afford $200 or $300 mods. That's why I built my own. I think most people that will buy the $117 mod were not going to buy the more expensive mod and those that would have bought the more expensive mod will not settle for the cheaper one. Just my 2c.

Just remember China prices mean China quality and support. I would be surprised if Evolv supported them like they are doing us now.

I went with a 2200mAh pack. I can usually get a whole day of heavy vaping form it. I used to go through 2 or 3 pair of 25R's of HE4's on my 350J. I am running between 60 & 120W and between 400 & 450*, depending on my drippers or RTA's. Some days over 20ml of juice.

Here is mine. Built in a 1590N1 with a 2200mAh Lipo.

This is the battery I will be using as soon as they get here. https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8934

First let me say thanks for this forum and all of the help it provides. I have a board in the mail so I haven't had a chance to look it over yet. I was just curious if I can or should add a heat sink to the board that is sinked to the box? I know some boards create quite a bit of heat at higher wattages and constant usage. I would prefer to sink the board to the box to help keep the heat away from the battery pack. Are there any grounding/shorting concerns to adding a sink to the back of the board? Any specific component that would benefit from a sink more? I am picturing an aluminum "L" bracket that is attached to the back of the board and secured to the back of the box. It would also double as a secure mounting bracket for the board. Or am I just wasting time and money?

Would something like this work? http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-Raychem/RHE1300/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsxR%252bBXi4wRUNGWMrBHmeaA13jYVkBMbiY%3d Manufacturer:TE ConnectivityProduct Category:Resettable Fuses - PPTCRoHS:No RoHS Version Available Brand:TE Connectivity / Raychem Hold Current:13 ATrip Current:24 ACurrent Rating - Max:100 AMaximum Voltage:16 VDCResistance:10 mOhmsMounting Style:Through HoleTermination Style:RadialSeries:RHEOperating Temperature Range:- 40 C to + 85 CDimensions:23.5 mm L x 28.7 mm H Packaging:Bulk Factory Pack Quantity:250 Type:PolySwitch Resettable Fuses Part # Aliases:194113-000