bmclaurin

I little blueing is normal with Ti wire, as long as you're not getting oxidation (white spots). In my experience, Titanium works fantastically well with the DNA 200 and most but not all of my atty's. The Velocity is one that plays very nice though. I recommend a very slight pulsing of the coils at low power setting before wicking to work out any hot spots. Turn the lights down low so you can see a very faint dull red glow but no more. Depending on the coil, somewhere around 10-20 watts is about right for this. Just pulse it lightly for maybe a second or two at a time until a little bit of heat starts to build up. Contact coils work fine but spaced coils are slightly less prone to problems. Sometimes just reinserting the post that you wrapped it on and willing it around a little is all it takes. Also, after heating, obviously check the tightness of your leads in the post. This simple technique works practically every time for me, even with contact coils, fused claptons with TI cores, etc. Good luck.

It just means the solder might not have flowed sufficiently to create a bond between the wire and the board's solder pad. You can sometimes spot them visually because the solder should be nice and shiny once it cools and hardens; if it's dull it could be a cold joint. Easy to fix by simply reflowing the solder on the joint. That might not be your issue, but it's something to check, especially since you said it was working fine before you resoldered the leads.

Hmmmm. Cold solder joint perhaps? Also, if you would prefer to not solder lipos directly to the board but don't have room for the XT60 housing, you could always just use the bullets without the housing. Just make sure to cover them in heat shrink to prevent shorts. I actually prefer this method even though it obviously presents a risk of dead short if you get the polarity reversed when plugging in.

If you try this, I recommend monitoring the cells of each pack individually from time to time (particularly for the first few cycles) to make sure the cells are balancing appropriately.

I haven't tried it, but there's nothing theoretically wrong with doing so. It will obviously require a pretty large box though. As for the balance leads, you could use a parallel harness like this: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__27077__JST_XH_Parallel_Balance_Lead_3S_250mm_2xJST_XH_.html Or if space is a concern you could just splice the individual wires from the balance taps together directly. Just be extra careful you match the wires correctly to avoid a short.

Yeah, I was initially confused by the wording of WNV's post, thinking like Jaquith that his cells were way out of balance, but obviously through subsequent posts he means that all 3 cells were at 4.05v. I tend to agree that something is awry with either the wiring or the board itself given he extent of his troubleshooting this far. And FWIW, I understand WNV's reaction to Jaquith's posts. When I first encountered Jaquith on these forums, I had a similar reaction for similar reasons. That said, as I've hung around here a while longer, I will say that IMO he sometimes gets a bad rap in large part because of his wording choices, but at the end of the day I do believe he is trying to be helpful to everyone and share his knowledge. I don't agree with everything he posts, but in his own style (which can rub people the wrong way at times) he is just trying to help. I do wish, however, that we could get away from the constant dogma on cutoff voltages.

I should add that my Reuleaux exhibited very similar behavior. I used it for a couple days with no problems, but then all of a sudden I couldn't get it to even turn on. The Wismec statup logo would come on briefly but then it would turn back off. By rotating the batteries around a bit and fiddling a bit with them, it would start working again for a while but then would turn off. I have temporarily solved the issue by using small magnets on the positive end of the battery. It's not a perfect solution because it's a pain to insert the batteries with the magnet staying in place because it's hard to fit them underneath the battery protection ring. But once I got them situated, the batteries make much better contact now, and the previous problems have vanished.

Depending on your particular 18650's, the battery contacts can be a bit finicky on the Wismec due to the reverse polarity protection rings on the battery cradle. So first just make sure your cells are making good contact. Regarding the 0.00 ohms, you have to press the fire button after startup or after attaching a new atty before it will give a resistance reading--it wasn't clear from your post whether you did that or not.

I actually like the flavor better on the mini. I guess the shorter barrel reduces the chamber and thus concentrates the vapor more than the regular version. Juice well is shallower but still usable and posts are very slightly shorter. But there is still plenty of room for large builds. For all practical purposes, it is every bit as flexible as the regular Velocity in terms of build capability.

I also have the Tobeco clone of the Velocity, both regular and mini versions, and I agree with the OP's comments. Still, it's probably my all around favorite for its versatility. One RDA that doesn't seem to get a lot of attention is the Vector. It's a standard 3-post deck but has top airflow. Only supports dual coil unfortunately. But l have found that the flavor is top notch, owing probably to the top airflow design. It's not the most flexible design. No interchangeable drip tip, as you have to use the integrated top cap because the airflow control is built into it. Still, it's hard to argue with the results. It's probably my most consistent atty from a flavor standpoint, and I have quite a few.

Well i think the point of this whole thread is that the DNA200 version of the Reuleaux is in short supply because of the screens. The DX200 version is available more readily in some places. Some folks were wondering if you could convert the version with the lesser chip to a full blown DNA 200. I will definitely not be among those attempting this.

Oh, no doubt that has to be one of the most expensive routes to a functioning DNA 200 device...LOL :/ But I must admit I'm kinda jealous of the black case.......

I thought that's what this thread was about, but admittedly I haven't read all the posts.

Here is a really nice DX200-->DNA200 conversion that I stumbled across over on OpenPV. https://www.reddit.com/r/OpenPV/comments/3vc9jw/customised_my_reauleaux_with_a_black_body_from/

For those of you having trouble using eScribe on a Mac VM, can you not just create a bootable Windows partition with Bootcamp and then use eScribe in a native Windows environment?

There is some decent info in these forums on this question, such as: /topic/65604-topic/ But I would recommend running the battery analyzer for yourself for your particular cells. It's easy and doesn't take *that* much time. I'd recommend making 4 large-ish loops of kanthal and running the analyzer at a power setting that is commensurate with your overall vaping style. Remember, though, if you typically run your mod in TC mode, the actual output will generally be lower than your specified power setting once the coil reaches your specified temperature. For most purposes, running the analyzer around 40-50 watts is reasonable. I also recommend specifying a relatively low voltage cutoff *for purposes of the analyzer test* (e.g., 2.8v or so). As has been discussed at length on these forums, 18650's generally have a lower minimum voltage than their Lipo counterparts (i.e., 18650's can still deliver incremental capacity at slightly lower voltages than Lipo's, but the incremental gain is not all that substantial). But the DNA 200 was designed with Lipo's in mind. So there is a hard cutoff that is programmed into the firmware (which, IIRC, is currently at ~2.8v, so specifying anything lower than that won't have any effect). So..... I suggest running the battery analyzer at ~40-50 watts and a relatively low voltage cutoff (e.g., 2.8v). Once completed, it will tell you the watt-hour capacity of your cells and will generate a discharge curve in the form of a .csv file that you can upload to your mod. Once you do that, I suggest resetting the soft cell cutoff to something slightly higher (e.g., 2.9v), although this is not critical. Lastly, I note that you will be using your DNA 200 primarily with 0.4mm kanthal coils. Nothing wrong with that, but do yourself a favor and explore temperature control with an appropriate coil material of your choice, because this is where the DNA 200 really shines and what it was designed to do.

+1 on advice given. The atomizer analyzer built into eScribe can be very helpful in diagnosing these issues. I experienced a similar issue on one of my atty's, and it turned out that the positive pin was just a tiny bit loose, almost imperceptibly so. I tightened it, and it's been working flawlessly ever since.

The DNA 200 accepts max input current of 23 amps, so those cells can source the board's max output.

Nope, you can load the .csv's at any time into whatever profiles you want. No actual build required.

The first file you reference is the eScribe software. It's not necessary to download that from Wismec's site. The most current eScribe software and DNA 200 firmware can be found directly on this site at: /topic/66731-topic/ The second file you reference is just a settings file that populates eScribe with Wismec's recommended settings for the Reuleaux. It's a good place to start, particularly for the Reuleaux's thermal characteristics and mod resistance. In terms of the battery, however, you would be better served to use a Wh capacity setting that is appropriate for your particular cells, as the one in Wismec's settings file is fairly conservative. Also, in terms of soft cell cutoff, the Wismec settings file uses 2.8v. There is a fair amount of discussion/debate on these forums as to what is the best cutoff voltage to use. Evolv's default is 3.09v, which is a decent compromise between runtime and overall longevity of your battery, but that default is optimized for a 3S Lipo pack. Lithium-ion 18650 cells have a similar but slightly different discharge profile as compared to their Lipo counterparts, so you might be better served with a low voltage cutoff for your Reuleaux that's slightly lower than the 3.09v Evolv default. Again, Wismec puts it at 2.8v, but that might be just a tad on the low side, particularly when you understand how the DNA 200's soft cell cutoff feature works. Perhaps something around 2.9v would be a better compromise, but this is a personal choice and is not critical to getting a very satisfying vape from this device. EDIT: Be sure to click 'Upload Setting to Device' once you have everything to your liking.

The preloaded settings from the factory for my Lavabox were crap. Change watt-hours to ~9.95, and I recommend lowering the soft cell cutoff to ~3.0-3.1v (3.09v is the Evolv default). Also, it helps to measure your mod resistance and input your specific measurement. Mine measured at .007 ohms, but I've read it's better to leave that setting at the default of zero if you're not sure. Also, if you're only using ni200 coils, you're good to go, but if you want to use materials other than ni200, you're going to need to grab the TCR or TFR curves from steam engine and load those into a separate profile.

You can just add a .txt extension to the filename.

FWIW, cell 1 on my Reuleaux also sags more than cells 2 and 3, regardless of how the individual cells are arranged in the cradle. Hmmmmm.....

Wow, just saw this thread. Didn't realize that Wismec was changing the chip. So no more Reuleaux DNA 200's? I guess I'm lucky, as I walked into one of the local vape shops yesterday, and they just received 8 of them. I decided to buy one spur of the moment, not knowing they might no longer be available. If anyone is having trouble finding one, you might check out that shop. http://www.vape-co.com/ They have two locations, and I was told that each location received 4 each. Get 'em while you can.

It's probably the reverse protection rings on the battery tray preventing proper contact. See this thread, which ironically was posted within minutes of yours. /topic/67725-topic/?do=findComment&comment=909545