AMDtrucking

I tried, I doesn't lock up, but it doesn't fire either. I suspected the switch itself too, but when I bypass the switch, by shorting its legs with a pair of tweezers, the same thing happens - board goes into lock up mode.

Lately, one of my DNA250C, instead of firing, goes into a lock up mode. I would unlock it, press the fire button and it locks up again. Any ideas?

joevapes3@, right. That Chinese connector, in the link above, I advice strongly against. It's more convenient, because it is threaded M10 and it fits perfectly, but it leaks. At least mine does. As far as the length of MM510, that I used, it was perfect. Only diameter of it is 12mm and I had to ream the hole wider, as well as the place where the nut rests, because M12 nut is bigger. How do I make those "Elbow Adapters"? The old faction way, using my lathe and mill. 😀 It consists of two parts, press fit, one into the other. Turned in four jaw chuck. On this one, I went fancy and milled a wire soldering tab. It doesn't look like much, but believe me, it is a lot of work. Made out of 304 Stainless Steel. This one here, it looks like both pieces are welded together. They are not. They are still press fit. But I thought it would look better if I soldered them together to make them smoother looking.

joevapes3@, cool mod, I can see right through it. 1) For the connector: I use MM510, I just don't remember which version though. I think THIS ONE. That Chinese connector, that I used first, started to leak in a couple of weeks. 2) Displays are identical, the one DNA250C and SXK chip. I swapped them out several times, they work. Here is my photo of SXK chip and DNA250C display working together.

Lost Vape bottles are 7.0 ml.

These contacts are very important. For example: SXK Boxer clone, uses similar contacts, but they are made out of nickel plated carbon steel. As the result, every once in a while, the mod refuses to power up. I got tired of it and replaced them with gold plated beryllium copper contacts, that I pulled out of KeyStone 1048 model They are much better.

Certainly. More then one. But I only replaced leaky 510 connector with MM510 and defective boards. REBEL is the easiest mod to work on. Lost Vape Drone BF, for example, is whole lot more complicated.

Another dual battery DNA250C squonker from China, called VapeCige VTX200. This one started leaking like a sieve after one week. Because they used very primitive 510 connector. In this one, I had to use an Italian silver plated connector ModDog, I just had to machine it to fit and drill two holes. I also made a stainless steel offset elbow.

joevapes3@gmail.com, Good job! I noticed you are using THIS Chinese connector? I hate to be the one to bring you the bad new. I used this connector in my SXK Boxer clone (with DNA250C) too. It lasted for about a month and started leaking. I replaced O-Rings and bought me yet a couple of weeks, before it started leaking again. It turns out that this connector is the royal piece of you know what. I ended up replacing it with my trusty English MM510 connector. No more leaks. Also, the battery contacts, of SXK Boxer, are made out of nickel plated carbon steel and loose contact with batteries every once in a while. I cleaned them, brushed them, bent them out and still, every once in a wile, the unit refused to power up. I got tired of it and replaced them with gold plated beryllium copper contacts, that I pulled from KeyStone battery holder. So far - so good. I suggest you do the same.

I made it out of Lost Vape 30 ml Silicon Refill Bottle

I took your advice, in the other thread, installed SP38. I haven't seen "Error Press UP" ever since. Thank you very much for your help!

This one ( in the picture above) is the original Ginger Vaper Boxer. You could tell by how matte the finish looks, because it is 3-D printed. I just made and installed a stainless steel offset elbow adapter, just like the one in SXK Boxer clone, only not chromed brass, like they used. It is much better that way, no need to bend the hose (tube). I have an SXK Boxer clone too, that I replaced the board with DNA250C, it's working fine. And Vape Cige VTX250C, that was leaking like a sieve. This time, I replaced the leaky connector with Italian ModDog silver plated connector, that I machined and drilled to fit, also made an offset elbow as well. What can I say? I like my offset elbows. 😀

Still SP35. I will load SP38 and report back. I spoke too soon. There was a link to SP38 in this thread, but the owner removed the file. Where do I get SP38? Never mind, it's in SetupEScribe2_SP19_INT_ServicePack

One more observation: This error occurs quickly when the board cools down. It took me 5 minutes, to replicate this error, just by placing my mod in refrigerator.

I don't know if it matters, but three of my other DNA250C boards, have Version 1.1 SP35 INT. Only this one, with the "Error Press UP" problem, had Version 1.1 SP35 US, loaded in it. I changed the Service Pack, on it, to the international version, hoping it might help. I know at least one more person with the same problem on his DNA250C. He is in Russia. If we could get to the bottom of this, I will try to help him too. I speak Russian. P. S: When I was finishing reloading international Service Pack 35, the "Error Press UP" popped up on the screen again. I guess, it didn't help.