Lilpetabread

Heys guys. I've owned many DNA devices over the years and my experience in this regard has always been similar, but I figured I should ask for clarification. When you open Atomizer Analyzer in Escribe, what do you guys consider to be a "stable" resistance? In atty analyzer, most of my attys, on all my DNA mods, the same build will fluctuate from 0.224 to 0.228 ohms for example. Is this considered "stable"? I ask because my experience using Replay is very lackluster, and I was wondering if a few milliohm fluctuations could cause a problem. On two 250Cs, I will save a puff at 45 watts and it is fine. A few hours later, I will go to take a puff and it fires at 35 watts and is a colder vape. I have to stop Replay, take a puff, and then save it again. The only time I do not have an issue is when I turn Warmth all the way down, it then works pretty flawlessly (I think it is flawless, but I have no idea what the graphs should look like in the Device Monitor for a normal puff vs the saved puff). Thanks in advance, guys.

From the looks of that mod, it looks like there is a film/window over the screen to protect it from getting scratched. If so, that could explain the issue you’re having, especially if that window is tinted. My Paranormal 250c does not have the issue you’re having, and is clearly visible outside.

Thanks for letting me know. You lucked out, I have the protruding 510 plate that a few reviewers/owners have mentioned. Makes such an otherwise gorgeous mod look kind of ugly. Lol

Thanks for checking that out for us! Quick question. Does taking apart/reassembling the 510 help the protruding 510 issue at all? The fact that nothing sits flush on it drives me nuts!

Thanks for the responses, guys. I had to turn the warmth all the way down. Ever since then, it’s been pretty stable. It reminded me of having Punch turned on when using 316L with TC back on the OG 200/250, being very inaccurate (that’s the only way I ever got TC to work, with no punch turned on.) I’m not entirely sure what warmth is, but for my tricore fused Clapton, it wasn’t necessary at all and actually hindered things. But, it’s still early, so I’ll update if I run into the problem again. Thanks again! On a side note, anyone know what “Stealth” is? I’ve turned it on and off, and don’t see any change.

Hey guys. I just had a question regarding Replay. I’ve tried this on 4-5 different atomizers, with different brands of 316L, with similar results. So I was wondering if this was normal. FWIW, I ran case analyzer, I have a mostly solid Ohm reading in escribe (fluctuates between 0.357 to 0.359 and I have never gotten anything more stable than that with any DNA device), and I’m using just a simple single 316L fused Clapton coil. I also don’t live in an environment with strange temp fluctuations - my house is always 75 degrees. Using a Paranormal 250C. So - Replay seemingly works great after I save my puff. After the mod goes to sleep (I have it set to sleep after 10 mins) and I wake it up, the puff is noticeably weaker. I save the puff at 45 watts, and after it sleeps, it’ll fire at 40 watts, sometimes 35 watts, for example - noticeably colder. After I wake up in the morning, the vape is even colder, and it requires me to redo the Replay. Does the mod going to sleep have an effect on Replay? If not, does anyone have any ideas? Because I’m totally out of things to try (I’m pretty well rounded with DNA and Escribe.) TL:DR - Replay works fine up until the mod goes to sleep. After I wake it up, it’s a noticeably colder/weaker vape. It is even worse after many hours. Is that normal?

From what I have read, this is only true if you're using an RDA with copper wire, due to the the fact that the RDA itself has a resistance. By subtracting 20% of the final Mod Resistance value, you're subtracting the RDA's potential added resistance. On the other hand, using the copper plug - you use the full Mod Resistance value due to the fact that there is no other resistance taken into account, as the plug isn't threaded into something like an RDA that would raise the final Mod Resistance value. I hope that makes sense!

Okay thanks, that's what I've been doing too. On my VT75, when I screw the plug all the way down tight, it makes a huge gap between the c-frame and the rest of the device's body near the 510. I love the looks of the VT75 (red) but the gaps around it drive my OCD nuts! (on both of my VT75s). Thanks for sharing your results!

How tight do you guys screw your 510 plug down? Until it literally can't screw down any more? I'm always afraid to crank down too tightly.

Okay, I have a weird issue for you guys. This sounds very bizarre to me, but I just have to ask. Has anyone ever experienced a fluctuating mod resistance? I have a VT75 and I have a copper 510 threaded plug I bought used to test mod resistance. When I test my Mod Resistance (set at 0 in Escribe first) I get 0.005 sometimes. Sometimes I get 0.004. Sometimes I get 0.015. I can tell the difference when it's changed due to the vape quality. And I'll check my screen and it'll say 0.38 ohms instead of 0.37, then I'll head over to Escribe, pop in the VT75 to test my mod resistance and there's the value 0.015 displayed, when it was 0.005 an hour ago. I have to reboot it and then it'll randomly make its way back down to 0.005. Does this sound like a software glitch or a hardware glitch? It does it on its own, but I've noticed it most when it's been idle for a while and then I wake it up. Very weird. 510 is clean, too. Any ideas? Edit: if this is indeed a potential software glitch, it could explain why some people are complaining about inconsistent vape experiences on the DNA75. With this VT75, sometimes I get a nice warm vape (when Its reading my resistance properly.) Other times, an hour later, it's temp protection city with a cold vape. That's actually what prompted me to check the Mod Resistance each time I get a lackluster vape, is because of the inconsistent vapes.

If I recall correctly, he is trying to vape at 75 watts on a 26650 in this review. Everything I've recently read about 26650's states that vaping over 50 watts on a 26650 is going to be lackluster. I've heard sticking to 30-40ish watts is going to be the best performance.

I've tested a few VT75's and I've pretty much come up with a Mod Resistance of 0.004/0.005 (I use 0.0048, just because, why not? Seems like a good average.) A few things: - Is your 510 plate screwed down snug? - All three VT75 mods I tested, the 510 threads were absolutely filthy. And, from the 510 unscrewing itself (and subsequently, removing paint on the threading of the mod), there was a ton of red/black glittery paint shavings all over the inside of the 510 connection. Check yours, that may be the cause of any reading errors (in my case, my cold ohms were fluctuating between 0.375 to 0.379....after cleaning, I'm getting a solid 0.370, so it was noticeably throwing my resistance off.) I had no idea that A) a device would ever come to me that filthy and B) that it would negatively affect your vape that badly. So definitely check your 510 - the 510 threads should be silver. All three I have seen were totally caked and black (and it wasn't the normal crud that grows on it over time, it was like something from the machining process.)

I tested mine (and this value can vary from device to device) and my Mod Resistance came out to 0.004/0.005 - so I entered in "0.0048". Hopefully someone else will chime in with their Mod Resistance for their VT75s, as it would be nice to see what other's tests came out to.

I'd say, on average, maybe 60 watts. Nothing too crazy. They're probably 8 months old now. I'll likely just grab a new pair and recycle these, just in case. Thanks for the heads up and the advice! You guys here are awesome!

I'm getting "weak battery" when my HG2 18650's are at ~3.7 volts. That's at about 50% on-screen battery life. Is that normal, or are my HG2's just getting old? I do have 18650s set up thru Escribe, and I have preheat off, with a 0.38 316L build at 42 watts.

Wow, I'm an idiot. Didn't really think of it that way. Geez. Well, thank you for this info and thank you for the quick reply!

Hey guys, I apologize in advance if this has been asked before. This might be a stupid question, but I have my DNA75 screen settings set to display the charging current when it is charging. When plugged into my PC and wall outlet, it displays "0.0a" in the charging current field, though it is in fact charging. Is this a glitch or is this my own user error? Thanks for any advice!

Not trying to be a jerk at all, just a friendly heads up. The VT200 can be purchased, as of last October when I purchased mine, for ~$117 in the US. Again, not trying to put you down, just trying to help you get it out of your hands quicker!

I agree with Johan. As I stated before, 0.022 as a mod resistance is just nuts. My resistance was WAY off using those numbers. I wrote to him on YouTube and he was kind of shocked when I questioned those numbers, and he said that he had tested multiple VT200 boxes and had gotten that same result. I'm not really all that saavy when it comes to testing these things - so I found it pretty disconcerting that I saw that number and immediately realized it was questionable, but he didn't. Another thing that doesn't make sense is where he got the info about the serial numbers, implying there is different versions of the VT200 (especially in relation to the battery.) I've written to ECigar multiple times and all times got the response that "after serial number 5,000, it is the v2 with gold plated SS 510." Nothing relating to the battery. It's also worth noting that, last I checked, without modifying the VT200 case, a larger battery isn't going to fit in there. I guess my point is, it might be best to get a second opinion after seeing his results sometimes. I love his reviews and his info, but the VT200 was just all-around questionable. Initially, he didn't even know that the VT200 battery wasn't in fact a 1300mah LiPo - meaning he didn't actually test it like he claimed he did, he just used HCigar's value. It wasn't until a few of us commented on his video that he actually changed it on his website.

Good stuff! I'd love to hear what your results turn out to be! Just a heads up, I had read somewhere that you're supposed to fire the mod once you screw the copper tool on - this isn't true. You just open up Escribe, set your mod resistance to "0" open the atty analyzer, and screw the tool into the 510 and see what it says - easy as that.

Here's a link to the post about it. Maybe it'll explain it better. I'm a user, not a pro. Lol /topic/66031-topic/?do=findComment&comment=893433

Definitely. Super handy for this purpose. Apparently, since it's 99.9% copper, you don't have to worry about only using 80% of the calculated mod resistance. What it says it is, you just use that. Reason we were told to use 80% of what Escribe shows us, is because before, people were putting copper wire in an atty to run the mod resistance test. But using the atty would throw the value off (by about 20% I guess.) So bam, subtract that 20%. I didn't want to go that route because, well, I like having an exact number - not a rough idea. So with this, if it says it's .005, that you use that! No math needed lol. It got to me in about 3 days. This idea behind this tool was created with, I wanna say his name is Nick, from Evolv.

Got that tool in today. Just ran the atty analyzer. VT200 with gold plated SS 510 came in at 0.005. It was jumping quickly between 0.004 and 0.005 so I put in 0.0049 lol. Thought I'd give ya a heads up

Just got mine, Bob! I shall try it out in a bit!! Thanks again!

No prob, pal. Took them about a day or so to respond to me.