Viruk

I've got to agree that the dna 200/250 with SS claptons is the best vape I've found too

I use contact coils for SS316L and its been great. More info on my builds in the following threads: /topic/66183-topic/?do=findComment&comment=894613 /topic/66214-topic/ There are pictures of the builds and screenshots of device monitor while firing. I do use contact coils not spaced and I've not had any trouble - but as with almost all points here, use whatever works best for you

I'm not disagreeing with you retird, but I have to admit I'm sure I read somewhere about the DNA250 basically replacing the 200. I'll post a link if I stumble back across it...

You also could try adding the following csv for the discharge profile under the "Mod" tab in escribe: https://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/file?id=3187872 Just in case the above link doesn't work you can find it in this thread: /topic/66080-topic/?do=findComment&comment=893772

What resistance do those come out at? Are you hitting those in single or dual coil setups? 30-40w seems very low for coils that look that chunky. Also pre-heat is usually set higher to mitigate ramp up time, what actually happens if you set your pre-heat lower than the vaping wattage? Those are some good looking coils, I run dual fused Claptons coming out around 0.12 ohms and I fire at 100w with a pre-heat of 120w and they usually aren't up to temperature from cold with a 1 second pre-heat time!

I like contact coils with SS, just make sure you dry burn it before wicking and work out any hotspots if you're using contact coils.

Sorry about the delay - I've just got back from Brazil The file I use for the LG HG2s is attached - I'm not sure if its the same as the one that PaulM posted, but this works for me. 3S_LG_HG2_Battery_Profile.csv

I put some info about what works for me in the following threads: /topic/66183-topic/?do=findComment&comment=894613 /topic/66214-topic/ Have a look there if you're still looking for info and let me know if you have any questions. SS is great once you've figured out what settings work with your setup - its well worth the effort

Have you tried the csv for SS316L that I posted in the thread Black Lace linked to? I found that to be more effective for me than the default on the device - but as always YMMV. Dry burning is great for working out any hotspots. This would need to be done in wattage mode as a correctly configured temp control profile should stop you getting the coils so hot they'd be glowing. Check your build is stable using the atomiser analyser and make sure you've allowed the coil to completely cool to room temperature before swapping to your temp control profile. I can post the profile I use - but I'm unlikely to be able to get that until January as I'm travelling for 3 weeks. My settings are also much more aggressive than yours so may not be appropriate for your build. For stainless I'd recommend starting with a low punch setting. Also test with the device monitor open and look at what your resistance is doing while firing it. I believe the temperature dominant setting is just for display purposes and shows the temp in the largest text on the screen. And finally - I strongly agree with wayneo's advice in numerous discussions - avoid locking your resistance. The DNA chip doesn't need to be locked and it's a workaround for a more fundamental problem. Get your build right and the chip will do the rest without locking your resistance.

Im travelling at the minute without access to a PC so i can't post my own - but I'm sure both of those profiles are available on the forums here if you search. I'll post a link if I can find one.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Series_and_parallel_circuits

My understanding is that you're not splitting the watts or current unless you're running cells in parallel. Please feel free to correct me, but my understanding is that each cell in the battery takes the full load when in series. This is an excerpt from a Wikipedia article that sums it up quite nicely: Series circuits are sometimes called current-coupled or daisy chain-coupled. The current in a series circuit goes through every component in the circuit. Therefore, all of the components in a series connection carry the same current. There is only one path in a series circuit in which the current can flow. I'll post the link to that in a moment - but I'm stuck on a phone while travelling...

Aren't the cells in series? You're not splitting the amp load between the cells unless they're in parallel - right?

Here are two setups I like, both using fused Clapton SS316L. The dual coil on the left is 3mm inner diameter and comes out at around 0.12 ohms The single coil on the right is 3.5mm inner diameter and comes out at about 0.38 ohms. I dry burn it in wattage mode to adjust for any hotspots, then allow it to cool down, wick it and swap to temp control. I like the csv on steam-engine.org for SS316L - its labelled there as "SS316L / Elite", but I've also attached it here for convenience. You should use the same csv even though your coil is likely to be different - the csv relates to the material. Beyond that, you'll need to experiment to see what works for you. Just start low with your wattage and punch and increase as required. I posted some more details of what works for me in this discussion: /topic/66214-topic/ I find this works well - but you'll just have to experiment to find what works for you. Good luck steamengine_SS_316L_-_elite.csv

I believe they raised (removed?) the 9V limit their board originally had - whether their devices can handle that properly is another topic that I'm not going to touch

I'm not knocking the DNA250 at all - just making the comparison that the DNA200 versus the RX200 with the extra 50 from firmware is a no contest

Unless you really need those extra 50 watts I really wouldn't worry about it philipsig I have the RX200 and RX200S as well as a DNA200 and a DNA250. While the RX models from Wismec are nice devices for the money (read: cheap) they just aren't in the same class as the DNA chips, I'd take the DNA 200 version with the 200 watt limit without hesitation.

The builds... On the left (on the Wismec Reuleaux DNA200) is the dual coil SS316L fused Clapton that is shown on the shot in the previous post - although that device monitor shot was firing that setup on the lost vape Triade. On the right (on the Lost Vape Triade DNA250) is a single coil using the same SS316L fused Clapton. The temp control can be seen working in this shot of device monitor:

Sorry to disagree with Car147 - but this is just what works for me. You just need to experiment and use whatever works for you... on to my setup: I use fused Clapton in SS316L, I don't space my coils. I never lock my resistance and can get a very nice vape. I use the steam engine settings for SS - they list it on their wire wizard page as "SS316L / Elite" http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz.asp# Select the coil material and click the DNA200 button next to the temperature control results then you can grab the csv to upload to your device. I posted this screenshot in a different discussion yesterday, but its appropriate here: I've found a low punch works well for me with a high wattage, but you'd need to find out what works for you depending on your coil setup and resistance. I'm just using a single coil setup in a new dripper tank - its quite a big coil but still using stainless. I'll get a shot of that and a shot of device monitor too if you're interested. Check your resistance is stable using atomiser analyser and make sure the setup has time to drop to room temperature after you've built on it and fire it for the first time so you get an accurate resistance. There are lots of ways it will work well depending on your setup and preferences - good luck

I haven't tried any SS430 yet - I'm a little put off if it deforms easily. I've never had a problem with SS316L, but a friend of mine managed to deform the same coils by glowing a little too much. I'm using chunky coils - hence the high pre-heat being high; fused Clapton with 2x26g core with 30g wrap. In dual coil set up I reliably get 0.11-0.12ohms and the high wattage is good. I've used the same Clapton wire today in a single coil setup on the Pharaoh for the first time - that was delivered with the Triade yesterday but I only built on it today. I've dropped wattage on that as resistance is more than double my usual for that wire. I haven't had the best results with a higher punch setting, although as the current setup has been great I haven't experimented with punch since much earlier f/w versions. With regard to the Aspire coils - generally I like their coils although I don't use them very often these days. I liked their SS coils for the triton and the more recent Clapton coils, but I never got on with the Ni200 triton coils - I just didn't like the taste as much as when using their other coils. I've had my Reuleaux DNA200 for about a year and still use it every day, but after a little over 24 hours of use of the Triade I am quite impressed. The main thing for me was having the triple 18650 option to have great capacity, but overall its very similar in all the right ways, and one not so great way! Everyone has their own preferences, but I'd take a guess that the Triade would suit you just as well (or otherwise) as the Reuleaux.

I find this way is better for SS316L, plus on that setup if I'm vaping non-TC (if I'm on anything other than a DNA board!) I use that setup at a little over 100W and it works quite well, but no other board comes close to the experience I had with the DNA200 and now with the 250 I did test temp control with the same build/atty combo on an RX200 and RX200S; while the latter is an improvement over the former its just way too unpredictable. I've had a good experience with SS on the DNA200 for quite a while now, but since the SP2 update it just smoothed it out so much more at the desired temp. I haven't gone back to titanium since those updates (yet) - I'm curious if that's seen an improvement like SS seemed to get; but I do like the ability to just swap on to a different mode in straight wattage mode when using stainless. I've never locked the resistance of a build - and nor will I What material do you use for TC? I don't really like nickel, I've only done a little experimentation with titanium and exclusively used SS316L when playing with stainless.

Quick update: I've used the new set up a little last night, keeping an eye on the voltages in device monitor. Its stood unused overnight and then fired fine this morning. The voltages have stayed even across all the cells and there has been no noticeable heat build up anywhere. This shot does show a very slight variance on one cell of 0.01v but that levelled out again within a few seconds. I'm still interested in hearing from anyone who either has any information on safety concerns or if anyone has had a similar experience with a new 18650

Hopefully these will help: /topic/66182-topic/?do=findComment&comment=894575 /topic/66088-topic/?do=findComment&comment=893826

Hi Wayneo, Thanks for taking the time to respond. Current update is that the low voltage cell is about 4.1v and although it appears to have started from a lower voltage, it is not showing any other signs of actually being dead. There is also no noticeable heat difference between that and the other two cells that completed their charge a couple of hours ago. I'm currently considering testing it with the trio of new cells and monitoring to see if the voltage drops quicker than for the other cells. I have other sets of HG2s I can use, so I'm not being impatient just to use the new mod - I can do that with one of several other sets of married 18650s. I am however, quite curious about what I was seeing with that particular cell and interested in whether it will hold charge properly and discharge at the same rate as the other two...

I've just received my new Triade DNA250 and a set of brand new LG HG2s. After inserting the HG2s the mod wouldn't turn on, if I held down the button I received the check battery and check atomiser warnings. I assumed the new cells may just have dropped a little too low and may need to charge so put them onto a Nitecore D4. Two of the cells showed a voltage I'd expect - around 3.6v, however one of them showed me a worryingly low voltage of 1.7v. I took all the cells out of the charger, looked at the very low voltage cell for any sign of wear or visible damage and it looked ok. I then thought I'd test it in other slots on the charger to see what the voltage was reported as, I got a consistent voltage displayed and took a picture of the cell showing 2.79v (in case I need to return the cell for a replacement). As it was showing close to 3v I thought I'd give it a few minutes on the charger and see what happened - or whether anything got too hot. Within 5 minutes (I wasn't watching every second) the cell was reporting over 3v. So I placed the other two cells in the charger with it. After a couple of hours the "normal" two 18650s are just about at 4.2v and the initial low voltage one is showing 3.71v. There is no noticeable heat and no difference between the temperatures of the three cells (not scientifically measured - just using my hand to test temperature!). A quick google hasn't yielded much in the way of useful information On to the questions: 1. Has anyone experienced anything similar with new 18650s? 2. I have faith in the DNA boards safety features, but am I being naïve relying on the safety in the mod to protect me against a problem with this cell? 3. Does anyone have any advice in this situation? Am I taking an unnecessary risk using that set of cells? 4. Does anyone have any explanation as to what was going on? Thanks in advance for any input