Dampmaskin

As long as you don't mix materials, the only setting in the Wire Wizard that is relevant to the temperature profile, is your choice of material.

My day job is time management/planning software development, and if I can make a suggestion to Evolv's dev team: Use the ISO 8601 format for dates whenever a date needs to be exported, stored or transfered as a string. This format is unambiguous, human readable, alphabetically sortable, easily parsable, all sorts of good stuff. ISO 8601 makes date format pains go away.

When you use only one coil material at a time, the only value that matters is the material choice. The leg length, inner diameter, number of wraps and so on, only come into play when you combine two or more different materials in one coil. Then those values are needed to determine the relative resistance of each piece of wire, so that the calculator can find the total resistance factors for the combined coil at different temperatures.

I have some DNA 40s that I can cannibalize, just haven't gotten around to it. Also, yesterday I received a spanking new Sbody Macro with the DNA 40, very pleasant to use, so there's no rush. I think I might just wait until the screens become widely available again. And/or get the Wismec. There's something about those 18650s... Update: After much rummaging, I was able to find a spare DNA 40 bigscreen. Yay, I can see what I'm doing again.

Aha. Device monitor -> Diagnostics -> Set Profile... I didn't expect it to be in there, and I must have looked at that menu two or three times without actually seeing it. Thank you, VapingBad and James.

Oh, there it is. Thanks, that is helpful. It would still be nice to be able to select it through EScribe though. I'll make do with the the Serial Terminal for now. Reference: Serial / Command Line Interface: list of commands? [CODE]M=#[/CODE]

My beta screen is pinched and dead, but I found that using the device without the screen is actually not so bad. I get by with muscle memory, and the occasional visit to EScribe. Escribe does it all, except one very basic thing (unless I'm missing something): I cannot see which profile is currently active. (The Device Monitor allows me to make some educated guesses, though.) I hope that the information about which profile is currently active can be added to EScribe for completeness. The ability to change this setting via EScribe would also be nice.

TFR is more precise.

I don't have the necessary measuring equipment myself, so I rely on information that is publically available, or sent to me, in order to update Steam Engine. For the reasons listed by James, I don't believe we will ever have accurate standard SS files anyway. It is better to use NiFe or Ti if you want accuracy, IMHO. I suspect that the people using SS adjust to taste and call it good enough - which is fine if that's what you want.

80W from a 10 Wh battery is 138 puffs at 3.26 seconds per puff. If that's your battery capacity, the numbers seem plausible. Since overunity is not possible, if you want higher numbers, you either have to increase the battery capacity, lie about the numbers, or change the laws of physics.

Go to Wire Wizard, select SS 316L instead of Kanthal, click DNA 200 and download the CSV. You don't need to change the gauge or number of wraps.

Yep, 10 Wh isn't much if you're vaping above 20W. I vape below that, and my battery usually lasts through the day.

I don't know, but the Turnigy 5000 mAh 3S 25C ought to last a while. This battery is bigger than most mods. Edit: I found an even bigger one: Turnigy 5800mAh 3S 25C Lipo Pack. This ought to last for weeks if you're vaping on lower wattages. Weighs over a pound, though. (482 g)

It works for me. Only tried it on one computer, though.

It may be differences in the 510 and/or the wiring. You can measure the mod resistance in EScribe by shorting out the 510 while you run Atomizer Analyzer, and enter the resistance in Mod Resistance in the Mod tab.

AFAIK, the only temperatures that can be displayed in Celsius on the DNA 200 screen, are the Temperature Limit, and the Real Coil Temperature shown when firing the mod. Board temperature and Room temperature do not show in Celsius. Last Temperature I'm uncertain about, and I can't check it right now. If the C/F setting affected the Board and Room temperature values on the screen, I'm sure I'm not the only European who would appreciate that. 8) (Celsius support would also be welcome in EScribe; in the custom TCR curve, the Mod tab, Atty Analyzer, Case Analyzer, and Device Monitor. Maybe through a Preferences setting in EScribe that is separate from the DNA200 profiles?)

I believe there is. Whether that limitation is in software or hardware, I don't know.

My Asus Z97-AR motherboard, which is only a few months old, seems to come with this functionality as well. I haven't tested it out. But AFAIU the DNA-200 will limit the charging current on its end to 500 mA if it detects a data line, so increasing the output of the motherboard probably won't have any effect.

Impressive modification. Kudos. I've been tinkering with a Flask v2, so I have some vague idea of how insanely difficult that must have been.

I have played with the thought. One analog output would do it. When firing the mod, Vout = (1 - (Patty / Pselected)) * 5 would give a nice 0-5V signal to control a juice pump. But I guess squonking will always be simpler and more reliable.

Yes, some configurability for this in Escribe could be nice to have. Maybe something like this: Max fire time: X seconds (20 seconds is the default - say I would like to lower mine to 10 seconds). What to do when max fire time limit is reached: 1) Stop firing. 2) Stop firing, cooldown Y seconds before it will fire again. 3) Lock mod. And a separate setting for "sleep": Auto lock mod after Z minutes of inactivity (0 minutes means no auto lock).

As long as your coil consists of one single material, the CSV file is going to be the same, regardless of gauge, wraps, etc.

Nice. Will the new device do double duty as a consumer device, or will it be purely a scientific instrument?

Vent holes are mostly redundant as long as the box has a part that pops off under pressure and leaves a hole in the case, or something that deforms and leaves a crack for the gasses to vent through.

All three cells should be reading the same voltage, and that voltage should be more than 3 V. Yours are reading 1.21 V, 1.40 V and 2.31 V. Seems like your battery is bad, or the connection between the battery and the DNA is bad.