dwaindablane

I prefer space coils IMO there just more stable, I personally use the atomizer monitor when I'm having difficulties obtaining a stable resistance. You may also find some attys have poor connection and/or static resistance that will effect temperature control, My SQuape Reloaded is an example of being absolute pants for TC therefore I only use it with Kanthal.

Now that I don't agree with, you should be able to sell at a price one wants to sell at. Greedy China trying to dictate whats done internationally. I won't be buying a VT200, I'll stick to my built mod thank you China MSRP = manufacturer's suggested retail price, doesn't that mean just that, suggested price!!

John, wasn't particularly pleased about the use of that connector either. see post 14/15 /topic/68350-topic/

LOL, yeah at least the brightness can be adjusted right. I believe this could be a great feature if done right, and IMO it needs a few tweaks to perfect it, even if it's more options in the software for controlling the stealth mode and whats displayed.

Yeah, already knew that one, but if you wanted to change this whilst out and about I would use stealth mode, wot good in all honesty is stealth mode when you can not make simple changes to menus without first disabling stealth mode. again just my opinion. Cheers for the reply John Mr Busardo will give you a thumbs up if you do this

Like all DNA products when you enable stealth mode, you loose the ability to make adjustments. John/James Can you make stealth mode so when firing the device it doesn't display, seems a PITA that you have to disable stealth mode to make changes to settings like watts, temperature etc... All menus should be displaying the screen during setting changes to the times set within the software IMO.

With a clean installation of Windows 10 Pro x64, and EScribe 29/7/2015 from the forum, I don't see any problems with the software looks okay to me.

I have an internal resistance of around 0.018ohms, I thought that was why Mod-Mod Resistance was there to account for mods internal resistance in the software. When I don't have any value set in the Mod Resistance field I can not get the correct shorted screen up when shorting the 510, I do when I apply 0.018ohm in the field. If When I enter my mods resistance I seem to get a weak vape, when I default back nothing in this field the vape goes back to normal, am I going bonkers?

Macz, Brilliant guide mate

The Velocity seems to be one of the most stable attys I have in my collect, Love the screw posts they seem to not cut through the NI200 wire. I have only tried NI200 worth buying IMHO.

John, if there's more specific tests I can do, please let me know I willing to give it a shot. Devices I tend to use are as follows, in both TC and Kanthal builds Kanger Subtank (Used the tank for testing as it seems the most stable)Kayfun V4 (Seems okay with the upgraded spring)SQuape-R (Have difficulties with this one, use Kanthal mostly as a result)Magma / Velocity RDA's (Works fine in TC) Under device monitor is there any useful information including, debug tab that is useful to us all for testing?

Hi John, I downgraded the firmware as suggested, and can confirm that the problem goes away. The new firmware looks like ohms lock isn't actually locking the resistance and the board was still trying to refine the resistance, similar problem to my very first DNA40.

Will do John. I'll give that a go and report back.

Thanks for a quick reply John, It's got 7/16 firmware installed. Next time it happens, I will get some more information out of the device monitor and post it up.

Hmm, strange you mention about having to hard reboot the device druckle, for the last several days I've had a similar problem, it vapes fine after a coil rebuild, leave it for an hour when I go back it vapes weak and doesn't reach the previous temperature like before. I hard reboot then device then it vapes fine again, and that's with the ohm lock on as well. doing a soft reboot seems not to have any effect, but doing a hard reboot does. NI200 Annealed 26awg - Spaced 8 wraps 0.1ohms

Like I said previously and confirmed by John, ohms on the DNA 200 is live when fired in Kanthal mode, but static when using temperature mode and displays only cold temp when you first confirm the ohm of the coil. It's done that way because of refinement mode after you stop vaping, the board refines itself in an attempt to make it more accurate. I personally lock my ohm because I still find certain attys internal ohms drifts and causes either weak/strong sometime burnt vape experience. So that only leaves you the ability to view live ohms in the atomizer analyzer. Why would you want to see live ohms anyway? When Personally vaping I'm not interested in live ohms, nor can I see the screen anyway. If I'm struggling to fault find a atty/coil I have installed, I fire up EScribe software and check the resistance using the atomizer analyzer for stability, There you can normally find loose connections, atty to 510 etc....

As far as I'm aware kanthal ohms shows live ohms when firing, TC coils only reads your base cold ohms. The only place I know that you can read live ohm on the fly is the atomizer analyzer to check resistance stability.

Yes, Under General - Atomizer Analyzer This is good for checking your atomizers for possible connection issues, like K4 or Squape-R that are known issues

I have the exact same 3D print from Shapeways. Couple of thing to look at. I had to file the 3d printed buttons on the sides and the holes of the case front slightly as I was finding that the down button for my was sticking when pressed.Try loosening the three screws that hold the board to the face slightly I also found over tightening them also caused sticky buttons.Overall the 3d printed case design works but isn't the greatest but since this isn't going to be my final case I settle for I'm happy for now, and for me was always more of a short term until other cases become available or I design my own case. Good luck hope it works out

Yeah, I know what you mean, but is early days yet, give it a few more weeks, companies like vaper shark, Hcigar have already announced their DNA 200 mods, not too sure on release dates though. If your friends can not wait, they could make their own mods as myself and others here have done here on the forums

never occurred to check the manual, cheers for the links peeps

I have been a tit and blown the on board fuse when connecting a new battery in reverse, the board is still seems to be functioning when hooked up via USB and the screen shows it's display What is the fuse part number for replacing the on board fuse? I live in the UK so seems silly to ship this board back to the US when I'm comfortable replacing this blown fuse myself, sorry if this has been discussed elsewhere on the forum.

Agreed

glassjaw, I've have been running my DNA200 that I made myself for the last week and a half with no issues and have been running the upgraded firmware with no problems as the guys have issued updates. If these mods are popping fuses I don't think that would be anything to do with the firmware, otherwise they would be seeing lots of peeps posting dead boards.

Now that would be a cool idea, when in temp mode put the temp control directly on the up/down keys and watts on the locked menu up/down keys.