dwcraig1
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Posts posted by dwcraig1
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I suggest that you compare the setting between the two with EScribe.
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Here is the difference on my VA spade before and after cleaning the battery cap with alcohol and Q-tip.
That's a pretty big difference in voltage drop when firing. This is with a Samsung 21700 30T so a lesser power cell would have an even greater difference.
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While it could be a weak battery try this first:
Remove the battery adjustment cap and clean the threads on it as well as the threads in the mod for it with alcohol. I have a VA DNA75 Spade and have to do this occasionally.
Also what wattage are you using and what battery?
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The DNA75 max voltage is 6.2 volts.
On a 250C with two cells max voltage seems to be the voltage of the cells under load.
On a DNA250 with two cells max is 6.2 volts.
On DNA200 with 2 cells max is 6 volts.
6.1 volts @ 1.3 ohm on a 2 cell DNA250C should be no problem.
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I believe that you trouble shot it well and as you probably figure it's most likely a bad board. They are real good about taking good care of their customers.
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I'd say it's time for a new battery.
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Are the voltage readings during firing or at Idle. Also instead of posting battery percentage it would be better to post standing voltage as percentage is just an estimate.
But it's the voltage during firing that I'm interested in.
In my snip where the red arrow is pointing it says 3.47 volts when I hoover my mouse there. This is firing at 45 watts for 1 second then 35 watts on single 18650.
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Using Device Monitor as pictured above note the voltage drop on each cell when firing. Your Cell Soft Cutoff by default is 3.09 volts. If one ore more cells drop below that it will throttle down. They should drop reasonably close to each other. If one is way off then most likely a bad battery. Is the pack swollen at all?
If your Cell Soft Cutoff is set way higher consider setting it to 3.09 volt area.
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Using Device Monitor in EScribe check the voltage on each cell and post here.
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You didn't mention what the wire material is, if TC wire resistance when heated is going to be higher yet. I'd guess that you are hitting the maximum voltage output of the board.
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This is a 166 but I would think it would be very similar.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=srfY6uQxSw0
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Any chance that the 510's positive wire is making contact with the battery sled's positive contact? Does the Profile Unity have a slightly longer 510?
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Have you charged your battery since taking this screen, it's pretty low?
For round cells I set my Soft Cell Cutoff at 2.75 volts.
Does it work OK when in wattage mode?
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With a live screen hoover your mouse on the batteries voltage drop and post what voltage it reads. Also post what your Cell Soft Cutoff is set to.
Edit: I'm thinking that your voltage drop might be lower than your Cell Soft Cutoff.
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It's pulling 24 amps from the board not the batteries. Example: the pack @ 11.1 volts w/30 amps powers the board to put out 55 amps @ 4 volts (just a rough example, not exact figures)
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Turnigy NE-BA931 will fit it just fine, this battery is rated at 750 mAh.
That happens to all of them eventually.
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Which board? If a DNA60 it's not there.
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Looks good to me.
Did you use the same wire as the one with the problem?
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On my laptop the USB ports are all USB 3.0 except one, it is 2.0. Do you by chance have one that is 2.0? I'm thinking that your problem is hardware more than software, don't know though.
I'm not sure if this was mentioned or not, using another computer with same data cable will the mod of perhaps a phone connect?
I would be first checking the cable even if it had worked before.
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Try the material file.
There is no change, are you sure it's stainless steel? That is how Kanthal or Nichrome would look.
Try the .csv that I'm including and post results again.
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Here I am using Device Monitor in EScribe. The cold ohms and live ohms are what I'm most interested in seeing. Note there is a change in resistance from cold to hot around 18% or so.
If you are getting a similar change in resistance and still jumping from TC to wattage then there could be a couple reasons.
1. TCR value in not correct for the wire material.
2. Bad connection between the board and coil.
Post a screen shot like mine, this was done with Windows Snipping Tool.
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@Matteo Galdi, could you describe your wire and coil for us?
Also a print screen of Device Monitor while firing would be helpful as well.
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Sorry but I'm not understanding your problem. Is it that your mod is switching from temperature mode to wattage mode as soon as you press the fire button?
Or is it some thing else?
Originally I thought it was because you had "Temperature-Dominant box checked but decided I was probably mistaken so I the deleted my earlier post.
I'm including pictures of "Temperature-Dominant both on and off.
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Am I reading this right? You have four 1550 mAh LiPo cells wired in parallel? Using Device Monitor while firing coil you will see your voltage drop. That will give the info needed.
If the wiring of the pack is up to it that sounds like it has a potential of over 100 amp output. You might consider adding a 35 amp miniature blade automotive fuse and holder between the pack and board if there is room. Not to protect the board but to protect the user, man that is a lot of power. I like it.
Lost Vape Drone DNA250C - Squonk hose kinking
in General Discussion
Posted
There have been a few cases with that problem. I'm pretty sure the nipple position can be moved on the 510. There are some posts here about that here but I don't seem to be able to find them.