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dwcraig1

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Posts posted by dwcraig1

  1. I'm not sure if I understand your post but here is something to consider. The DNA 250 and DNA250 are buck boards. When these boards operate on two cells the maximum voltage output is lower than what the data sheet states for these boards. For the DNA250 board the maximum votage output is 6.2 volts and the DNA250C is only slightly higher when operated with two cells. What ever the voltage drop of the cells is the output voltage can never be higher.

    I putyour .6 ohm coil @ .7 ohm hot @ 55 watts into an Ohm's Law calculator and got 6.2 volts, you are probably hitting the cap. Try building your coil a little lower, say .35 ohm and see if it makes a difference.

    If you are not achieving the set temp setting then you for the most part vaping wattage. 

  2. First thing to do is to try another cable. Make sure the cable is for data as well as for power. Check the cable with another device, perhaps a phone.

    If the USB port is USB 3.0 there may be one that is USB 2.0, try that. There have been reports of some USB 3.0  controllers not working with DNA boards.

  3. You might try locking the ohms. It only locks the cold ohms. I doubt that I have ever done it myself, it will maybe let it work properly for now. Well almost properly, I consider locking the ohms kind of a work around and not solving the actual  problem. You should be able to do that without a computer depending on the theme.

  4. Most likely there is some resistance change going on that shouldn't be. Could be loose post screws in atty, bad connection  between the 510's .

    You said dry hits, would burnt hits be a better description? It's hitting much harder right?

    Take note as to whether you cold ohms is changing, Of coarse coil must have cooled to compare.

  5. I was really hoping that was going to fix it. No I don't see anything. Try to get back with  Evolv, I would expect they will let you send the mod in for board replacement or repair. If they do they will pay return shipping. They generally get the work out the same day it arrives.

    Refer to these posts.

  6. Well then the only thing I can say is that end of the cover needs to come out first. The cover is not glued, well at least not on mine, it is just pressed in tightly.

    I was able to get my finger nail into the center and ran the edge of a credit card down to the bottom but the card wasn't strong enough to pry it out.

    Care must be taken  to not hit the components on the board as they could get knocked off.

     

    va.jpeg

  7. I have always wanted to see how VA wired it. I tried to remove the cover over the board but gave up. The cover is just press fitted in the case. I fashioned a tool from an o-ring pick and got the hooked end inside the little opening and pulled, the cover came right out. 

    Note the black wire, it goes from B- to a spot on the case right under the board. How they attached it I'm not sure, that's copper to aluminum so maybe they glued it.(?)

    The 3 screws holding the board into the case are able to provide the necessary ground for both the board and 510 socket.

    All 3 screws on mine were a little on the loose side.

    I would guess that your problem is with the ground and not the positive.

     

    Make tool.JPG

    Notch by barrey cap.JPG

    Using tool.JPG

    Black wire.JPG

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  8. So I hooked up my DNA75 VA Spade to Escribe and started loosening the battery cap, here is the result in Device Monitor. 

    This is what a bad connection between board and battery looks like. In this case the bad connection was between the battery and battery cap. But there are other places that could be problematic. Very possibly the 3 screws that hold the board to the case provide the ground for both the board and 510. Or a bad solder joint on the positive lead or contact.

    As I said I couldn't figure how to take mine apart, I wanted to see how they did the B- on the board. They could have used a wire to a stud in the case, I don't know.

    loose battery cap.JPG

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