ThatGuySwain

Glad to hear you got it handled. Yeah, they can be a pain to twist apart because of the thread lock they use. And you welcome for the instructions. Just trying to help. Did you get it working again, @jhmiller

I am sure there are probably other people in here more qualified to give you answers pertaining to case analyzer and the mods internal resistance. I do not deal with those settings enough to give a solid answer.

What was the internal resistance set to before? I would say leave it at whatever it came with, I haven't had to adjust anything in the settings once the 510 issue is fixed.

No problem at all. I repair devices all day long. Just trying to pass on the knowledge. I know people don't like going without their devices, so if there is an easy fix, that I can share, I will. Havent seen a Paranormal in a few days, so next one I'll be sure to get pictures. -Paul

Open a ticket with Evolv https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com or take a look at this, I just posted about the 510 issue on another topic. i will copy it here. If you are comfortable in fixing yourself, if not, send it in and Evolv will take care of you. "The 510 connector on the Paranormal has what i believe is thread lock between the ring where the ground wire is soldered to, and the main body of the connector. thread lock is a non-conductive substance which causes the Ohm readings to be off, However, it is an easy fix. Step1: remove the 3 T5 torx screws that hold the 510 to the body. Step 2: carefully unsolder the ground (black) wire form the outer ring. (take care not to over heat and melt inner insulator ring.) Step 3: using two pair of adjustable jaw pliers, grab the edge of the 510 with one pliers, and the ring that the ground wire was connected to with the other, and unscrew the ring from the 510. (take care to not how the insulator ring goes in.) Step 4: clean out the threads inside the ring and off the threads of the main 510 body. Using a pair of tweezers or small flathead screw driver is a good idea. Step 5: wipe ofF threads with rubbing alcohol or acetone. Step 6: reassemble and tighten down ground ring to main body of 510. Step 7: re-solder the ground wire back to the ring, (don't hold heat on too long or you risk melting insulator ring.) Step 8: line up the 510 and reattach to body with 3 T5 screws. that will bring the ohm reading back to correct readings. "

You're very welcome for the answers. and if you are not comfortable taking it apart, then I agree, its best to have it sent in. Evolv would take care of your issues for sure. Just open a ticket through help desk. https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com Ps. next one of these I get in, I will take pictures to show the issue and how to fix it for anyone who is interested. -Paul

Yes I have done this fix on 6 or 7 Paranormals so far. And it has fixed every one. And no, not a heat gun, a soldering iron to desolder.

Every Paranormal I have looked at with reading wrong resistance has been due to the 510 threads not making a solid connection because of the use of thread lock. It is possible that there other issues that cause it. But I have not seen one yet.

You're very welcome. It should fix your issue, every one of these mods I see reading too high, this fixes it. I for some reason it doesn't open a ticket with Evolv https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/

I have also noticed on some lost vape devices, some 510s have thread lock between the two outlined pieces of the 510, this could also be the reason for the resistance to read incorrectly, as there is a non-conductive barrier in the ground side of the 510.

yes, if you remove the 3 T5 torx screw that hold the 510 onto the frame, you should have enough room to tighten the 510 or solder the ground solid. I have attached a picture to help show what to do. in the picture, either tighten the piece outlined in red to the piece outlined in green. OR make a solder bridge like the orange (some good flux will be needed to be able to get the solder to stick to the stainless.

The 510 connector on the Paranormal has what i believe is thread lock between the ring where the ground wire is soldered to, and the main body of the connector. thread lock is a non-conductive substance which causes the Ohm readings to be off, However, it is an easy fix. Step1: remove the 3 T5 torx screws that hold the 510 to the body. Step 2: carefully unsolder the ground (black) wire form the outer ring. (take care not to over heat and melt inner insulator ring.) Step 3: using two pair of adjustable jaw pliers, grab the edge of the 510 with one pliers, and the ring that the ground wire was connected to with the other, and unscrew the ring from the 510. (take care to not how the insulator ring goes in.) Step 4: clean out the threads inside the ring and off the threads of the main 510 body. Using a pair of tweezers or small flathead screw driver is a good idea. Step 5: wipe ofF threads with rubbing alcohol or acetone. Step 6: reassemble and tighten down ground ring to main body of 510. Step 7: re-solder the ground wire back to the ring, (don't hold heat on too long or you risk melting insulator ring.) Step 8: line up the 510 and reattach to body with 3 T5 screws. that will bring the ohm reading back to correct readings.

on the BF therion, the 510 goes together really weird, and how the ground wire is soldered to the threaded ring, it doesnt always make good connection, you can try tightening the 510 with a couple pair of pliers, or very carefully ad some solder to bridge the connection from the ground wire to the main body of the 510.

Unfortunately not, that sounds like its gonna need a board replacement. As 67exec said, open a ticket with helpdesk and all it will cost is the shipping to get to Evolv. https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/

Glad I could help and glad you got it working again.

Yes, I work for Evolv in Hudson Ohio, I've been around since before the DNA 20 was released. Only started doing the RMAs earlier this year.

@Wayneo, I wish that were true. as far as I know, all my 200Rs for RMAs still say 250 on the back, so if I don't have them all in their correct trays, even I don't know what im using unless I plug into Escribe lol. luckily my desk and area is organized in a such a way, that I know what boards are where, so mix ups don't really happen. but I can see it being a bit confusing to end users who happen to take a gander into the mod and see the board label.

That is indeed a 200, its the same board as the 250, to save cost of PCBs. also the v2, (also known as a 200R) has also included the the reverse polarity protection that the 250s have. so any 200 device that comes back, and needs a board replacement, especially 18650 mods, get a 200R.

Charging dual cell 18650s on a DNA 75 is a common thing I've seen. The only issue you will run into is a longer charge time.

You're very welcome, glad I could help. hope it all goes smoothly for you. And if you have not had a Therion apart before, there are 4 small screws (small Phillips) underneath the wood/carbon fiber panels that hold the device together along with the 4 Allen socket screws. A heat gun\ hairdryer and a razor blade will take those panels off fairly easy. The 4 screws that are in the back of the battery sled do NOT need to come out unless you want to remove the sled. and I'll be looking forward to your update.

Yes, I am not a fan of the way you need to take the 510 out to take the therions apart. its a T-5 torx in case you need that info. and again, yes, they are surface mount parts, and it requires a board replacement. I have also attached a picture of a worst case scenario short on a board.

I have seen this a few times before, sounds like one of the capacitors near the the thermistor (board temp sensor) has shorted. This is typically caused by ejuice soaking the board. DNA boards are coated to withstand liquids, but it is not 100% invulnerable.

Not a problem, happy to help.

The older dna chargers are only .5 amp charge and we're designed before escribe came out. (Escribe started with the 200) the dna chargers for the 60, are 1 amp chargers with escribe connectivity. So you could use the old charger, but it would be a slower charge and you wouldn't be able to connect to escribe

Hello, if I remember correctly, pin 2 and 5 are connected internally as they are both ground. So with your 3 wire set up, you should be able to wire to pin 1, 2, and 6 and leave 5 open, or 1, 5, and 6 and leave 2 open. But I would not use pin 8 for your buttons. Easiest way to confirm this, is with multiple meter and check continuity between pin 2 and 5. Hope this helps.