Leaderboard

Exactly what it says. That field ONLY ever shows when the field above it 'enable replay' is checked/enabled above it, and YOU have enabled Replay for that profile. Your mod toggles that 'playing' on and off.

Under the 'safety' tab in escribe, you can adjust that 'fill pod' sensitivity or even turn it off. BUT IT IS WORKING (high watts, low airflow) as you've found out, caused by the wicking not able to keep up.

A couple of things come to mind. Is there possibly another window is hiding under the install window that you must give permission to proceed? Maybe try running it as administrator. Download and install the full package. Uninstalling your current EScribe isn't necessary. https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP71_1_INT.exe

I would say the evolv default theme fits that bill.

I don't know, but you can find the chip specs and dimensions on Stealthvape in the UK. I would measure the distance from the bottom actuator to the USB connector. Good luck.

Just to keep this succinct; You're always getting dry hit protection and fill pod warnings, as long as you're using these SS pods. Replay or not. You can hover over the 'warmth' term (escribe) for an official definition, but Replay must be enabled for it to do anything. Notice the default is 1. You can enable Replay whenever you want, and it's not working until you do.

Just popping in and out again, and apologies if you already realized this. Boost works at the start of a puff. Warmth is only activated if Replay is enabled. You really won't notice warmth unless you only activated Replay near the end of a session and allowed the coil to cool down.

Here's a question. If you pull up your puffs in ECigStats, is it saying "dry coil"? What do you get as your Cold Ohms and Live Ohms near the end of your puff? I'm wondering if Live Ohms is 18% above Cold Ohms (dry coil) or 24% above Cold Ohms (wet coil)? It determines wet coil by how much energy can go into it in a quick amount of time. If a juice is particularly bad at wicking, that could be the cause. I think John tested with 50/50 VG/PG, but I'm not sure. I will ask him next time I talk with him. If a juice has a ton of flavoring, enough to meaningfully affect the thermodynamics, I wonder if that could cause it. Let me know about the Cold Ohms and Live Ohms. We have a ton of settings on these devices, so none of this is hopeless or set in stone. Equivalent Ohms is something of a practical compromise. People tend to associate the vape they get with a Kanthal coil of a particular resistance. But what they are really asking for is not an electrical resistance, but the thermodynamic properties associated with that electrical resistance. The resistance of a Stainless coil, for the *same surface area and other thermodynamic properties*, is different from a Kanthal coil. Thermodynamics doesn't care at all about electrical properties. So, if manufactured correctly, a Stainless coil of "Equivalent Ohms" is meant to match the *thermodynamic properties* of a Kanthal coil of a particular resistance. Now, one could do it another way, but otherwise "I want a vape similar to my 0.6 Ohm Kanthal coil, but with temperature protections" becomes a rather confusing question to answer. Hope this helps. God bless. James P.S. There are other practical compromises. See the "True RMS Power Mode" checkbox? That's a fun one. If you want your watts setting to match your expectation on every PWM pod device we saw, keep it unchecked. This is "PWM Power Mode". If you want your watts setting to match thermodynamics (and non-PWM devices), check that checkbox! This is "True RMS Power Mode". (Actually, we did do better than other PWM pod devices when in "PWM Power Mode". See "Simulated Battery Voltage"? We make the true thermodynamic watts setpoint stable with battery voltage and battery voltage drop. The way most devices do it, this isn't true. Read on if you care about the math.) It turns out all of the PWM pod devices determine their duty by P=Vpod^2/R, so Vpod=sqrt(P*R), from which they conclude PWM=Vpod/Vbat=sqrt(P*R)/Vbat. A multimeter will back them up in this. (Mostly. There's also a huge battery voltage drop when firing on PWM devices.) The voltage is correct! Unfortunately, this is wrong. A multimeter will average the voltage over its sampling period. A PWM device is actually on/off. So the *real* power on a PWM device, when fully on, is P=Vbat^2/R, because it is connecting the battery to the coil. So, at a particular PWM duty cycle (0-1), you get P=(Vbat^2/R)*PWM, or PWM=P*R/Vbat^2. What's humorous about this is, when you measure with a multimeter, you're going to see the *averaged* voltage Vpod=PWM*Vbat=Psetting*R/Vbat. You're going to say "Let's use Ohm's Law", Pcalculated=V^2/R, and apply it to that averaged voltage, to get Pcalculated=Psetting^2*R^2/(Vbat^2*R)=Psetting*(Psetting*R/Vbat^2). See? The multimeter will tell you that it's wrong, when it's thermodynamically correct. You can't average voltage and then do that calculation on a PWM device. The factor by which it's off is how wrong the other calculation is. What you can see from the equation is that the way other PWM pod devices calculate wattage is not only incorrect, but the real wattage will change as the battery drains, and in a way that is different depending on the coil resistance. Fun! This is why the Oxva Pro 2 DNA has a "PWM Power Mode" Simulated Battery Voltage setting. We did better than the other devices by (1) matching the wattage you'd find on other PWM pod devices, *at near full battery*, while (2) using *correct* power control to make that stable over resistance and battery level. We left both options in. We knew for "PWM Power Mode" that most users of pod devices would be surprised if, even if entirely correct, the wattage level they set felt different than other devices. We also knew for "True RMS Power Mode" that we have some folks who can appreciate an accurate and correct vape.

One of the frustrations of starting to use Theme Designer is the lack of "Art". After a couple of years I have collected quite a bit from the web, other themes, etc. At one point I had a list of people that I borrowed art from. The list is long lost. If you see something you created in the files I am sharing. Thank You for taking the time to make it. I hope you do not mind me using and sharing it. The alt codes show the characters you can type using the keyboards ALT key. The RGB charts are used to create color using the RGB selections in the "Define custom colors" part of the color tool. Unzip the files, copy any thing you would like to use and paste it into the corresponding file in the EScribe suite. The instructions are below. Enjoy...JT ALT-Codes.zip Controls (89 pics).zip Miscellaneous (103 pics).zip RGB Color Code Charts.zip Wallpaper 300 pics.zip