Chip efficiency, Battery life

[intel]

9 hours ago, BillW50 said:

SAN DNA80C AIO #108 Firmware SP78
BATT#1 RPY 20w 768 puffs 3.46v 3ml
BATT#2 PWR 18w 949 puffs 3.39v 3ml

SAN DNA80C AIO #108 Firmware SP78
BATT#1 PWR 35w 548 puffs 3.45v 4ml
BATT#2 PWR 40w 578 puffs 3.39v 4ml

I used Samsung 25R cells for all of my tests. I also tried to get that coil higher in wattage, but at 45 watts it was dry hitting too much. Vandy Vape VVC-15 (SS316L) are rated for 35-60w. Hopefully I'll get a chance this weekend to do a build that will be able to handle 60 watts.

Anyways I am not seeing any short battery life using a San DNA80C. It looks respectable to me. The battery level bar does drop too fast and it seems to show empty when you have about 40% capacity left. That might be by design, I dunno. And when the battery is really empty and the weak battery shows up on the screen, It keeps firing if you want. But you can tell the wattage is dropping.

Yeah thats not my experience. At 35w on the san with a new sony vtc6. I dont have any voltage drop issues. I do max 300 puffs per day and I have to charge it after work which has to be about 150 puffs

[dwcraig1]

How many ml's of liquid is that 150 puffs?

[dwcraig1]

1 hour ago, EagleRock said:

Ill take tighten those screws today and test with a new battery.

You might consider completely removing that plate to see that there is no anodiztion interfering with it's connection to the chassis.

[BillW50]

9 hours ago, EagleRock said:

Ill take tighten those screws today and test with a new battery.

Careful! I wouldn't pop that window out on the Sans. I know what @dwcraig1 sees and Evolv's example probably the board does come out from the window side. But the San's window is smaller and is glued in (and juice proof) and it is framed unlike Evolv's. And there is no way the board can be removed through that opening even if the window was removed. I would not mess with that window on the San. It looks like everything comes out through the other side.

On the bottom of the San, see that rectangle on the bottom (picture below)? It looks like there is a screw under it that connects the positive battery connection to the board through that lower wire (picture above). I would not mess with this and find out if you could exchange it at the place you got it. Telling them it has poor battery connections. If that fails, try Evolv by opening up a ticket.

If you are stuck fixing it yourself. The ground screws looks like they are on the other side under the panel. If the ground screws doesn't solve it, then it is likely that positive battery connection under that rectangle on the bottom. I can't tell if it is a sticker or a plate. I think it is a plate and a hair dryer should soften the glue to lift it off (hopefully).

EDIT: That is a Vaperz Cloud logo on the window.

Edited July 28 by BillW50

[intel]

10 hours ago, dwcraig1 said:

How many ml's of liquid is that 150 puffs?

About 3.5ml but I'll have to test it again. Now with the .6 coil I'm running it seems weird cause I can easily make it through work vaping heavily at 28w and have battery left until almost end of day. Surely the 7w cant be that much. But i was also running boost at 1 and warmth at 5 before, switched to 0 boost and 3 warmth since then cause you dont need boost for stock coils rly. Will test again once I get my hands on some 35w coils.

Edited July 28 by intel

[BillW50]

On 7/26/2024 at 7:25 AM, Dieseljesus said:

It's like @EagleRock says, it feels like you get 30,40 or 50 puffs from a battery max. That's why I'm not using the San anymore while I'm here and only the blaze now since it seems to be more battery efficient.

Does the battery drain without using the device? Because the San's positive battery post is really close to ground (see picture). They say e-liquid isn't conductive. But VG and PG absorbs moisture and then it becomes conductive. And if e-liquid was there, it would likely drain the battery.

[EagleRock]

On 7/28/2024 at 5:19 PM, BillW50 said:

Careful! I wouldn't pop that window out on the Sans. I know what @dwcraig1 sees and Evolv's example probably the board does come out from the window side. But the San's window is smaller and is glued in (and juice proof) and it is framed unlike Evolv's. And there is no way the board can be removed through that opening even if the window was removed. I would not mess with that window on the San. It looks like everything comes out through the other side.

On the bottom of the San, see that rectangle on the bottom (picture below)? It looks like there is a screw under it that connects the positive battery connection to the board through that lower wire (picture above). I would not mess with this and find out if you could exchange it at the place you got it. Telling them it has poor battery connections. If that fails, try Evolv by opening up a ticket.

If you are stuck fixing it yourself. The ground screws looks like they are on the other side under the panel. If the ground screws doesn't solve it, then it is likely that positive battery connection under that rectangle on the bottom. I can't tell if it is a sticker or a plate. I think it is a plate and a hair dryer should soften the glue to lift it off (hopefully).

EDIT: That is a Vaperz Cloud logo on the window.

So I opened the mod from the panel side and was able to access and tighten all the screws; seems to have helped a bit with getting more juice out of the battery, as the puff count is now around 150.

but I'm still getting these weird spikes nd voltage drops when I vape on it, what do you think ?

[EagleRock]

21 hours ago, BillW50 said:

Does the battery drain without using the device? Because the San's positive battery post is really close to ground (see picture). They say e-liquid isn't conductive. But VG and PG absorbs moisture and then it becomes conductive. And if e-liquid was there, it would likely drain the battery.

Havnt noticed much battery drain when not using, also I have never had liquid down there so far, I keep an eye on it often as you need to change the batteries all the time :D

[dwcraig1]

What cell are you using?

[EagleRock]

4 minutes ago, dwcraig1 said:

What cell are you using?

Mix between Molicell P28A, Molicell p30B and Murata VTC5A.

similar results from all.

Edited July 30 by EagleRock

[dwcraig1]

That's 3.72v on the voltage drop with full charged cell, you should expect yours to be about the same.

Were the 3 screws on the top plate in need of tightening. Did any screws appear loose.?

[EagleRock]

5 minutes ago, dwcraig1 said:

That's 3.72v on the voltage drop with full charged cell, you should expect yours to be about the same.

Were the 3 screws on the top plate in need of tightening. Did any screws appear loose.?

Ill try again with a full battery and see. Still the ones i used was around 70% full.

nothing was lose, i just snugged everything.

[dwcraig1]

I don't understand those squiggly lines at the beginning of charging.

As far as voltage drop if yours looks comparable to mine then you good to go for that.

I plugged mine in without a cell installed, it looked wild but still not like yours.

[EagleRock]

22 minutes ago, dwcraig1 said:

I don't understand those squiggly lines at the beginning of charging.

As far as voltage drop if yours looks comparable to mine then you good to go for that.

I plugged mine in without a cell installed, it looked wild but still not like yours.

Battery was around 4.13 and it dropped to 3.35. That is still a big drop no?

[dwcraig1]

Still too much for a high amp cell. Is the wheel that tightens the cell tight enough?

[Wayneo]

2 hours ago, EagleRock said:

..... but I'm still getting these weird spikes nd voltage drops when I vape on it, what do you think ?

The only time I've seen those weird spikes was vaping on PnP or GTX or an RBA using Nichrome coils in both straight watts or Replay. The watts looked like a jigsaw blade and I could not feel any difference in the puff. It was strictly on the display.

[EagleRock]

15 hours ago, Wayneo said:

The only time I've seen those weird spikes was vaping on PnP or GTX or an RBA using Nichrome coils in both straight watts or Replay. The watts looked like a jigsaw blade and I could not feel any difference in the puff. It was strictly on the display.

In the pics i posted yesterday i was using the shift tank with a GTX coil but it also happened previously when using an RBA with an Alien coil.

[Dieseljesus]

We have contacted Vaperz Cloud now to see what they say and if I understand @EagleRock correctly the support at Vaperz Cloud reported back that they got atleast one customer that had these problems. Now let's see how this evolves

[Wayneo]

@intel @Dieseljesus @EagleRock  how did this end up gents? What did the mfgr say or do to resolve the issue? 

[Dieseljesus]

2 hours ago, Wayneo said:

@intel @Dieseljesus @EagleRock  how did this end up gents? What did the mfgr say or do to resolve the issue? 

Vaperz Cloud have been ghosting me and @EagleRock which is sad. Both me and him sent mails to the UK sales and support contact and they have been awesome before but now, just silent. To be honest, the San with Dna80 is a disappointment that feels more and more useless every day and I'd rather use something like my Pulse V2 with one battery per workday rather than the San with 3-6 batteries... It's just ridiculous

[Wayneo]

Damn @Dieseljesus that really sux. Don't the UK have laws for defective products? 

[ZERBIsvapo]

Guys, I have a Stubby 18650 X-ray (NOT DNA), and I had the same problem. (at 50% battery the mod says "low battery", low voltage and wattage gap after 80%.

I also have the DNA splatter edition and I heard that many people have the same issue even on this model. 

After I cleaned everything, tightened every screw, (spanned many and drilled to remove them  ), I changed the board and nothing!

I don't know were I found the strength to keep on trying but finally I understood the reason of the problem!

The problem is that on some items after some months of vaping the roller upside the negative side of the battery need to be tightened more and more.

I had thought about that but I was worried to ruin the mod (breaking the up plate).

The reality is that the battery need to be very grasped in the slot (don't stop tightening until the roll is completely blocked! if you don't have the nails use something od plastic to spin more strong).

My mod was terrible, it didn't fire after 70%! and the power was 20W when I was putting 40W !

I have also sanded al the contacts of the board and the plate, but the situation changed completely after I tightened more and more the battery's roll.

Vape on! 

[Beefstu2000]

If I may add a few things I’ve noticed on mine.

The screws on mine all needed tightening.  But after tightening I saw no change in battery consumption.  However, I did notice what seems to be an oxide layer building up on the negative battery wheel.  I use molicel’s for the San and they were bought brand new from a reputable supplier at the time I got the San just a few months back.  I’m thinking maybe a galvanic reaction is depositing a layer of oxidation on the wheel.  That in combination with how hard it is to tighten the wheel may be contributing to some of these power issues.

 

Like others, I put in a brand new fully charged battery showing 4.2v, and when the San shows it as empty it’s at 3.6 (at least according to my charger).

 

what’s even more odd is when I replace the battery with a fully charged one, the display shows somewhere around half to 3/4’s full battery when it’s first turned on.  But once the screen goes dark, when I press the fire button and the screen comes back up the battery display icon then will finally update to show the full battery.  This behavior seems to be unrelated to the battery level of the old one that was removed.

But how come we cannot change the battery cutoff on evolv for the dna80c like we could with other dna chips?  

 

[ZERBIsvapo]

I correct the first message:

In the Stubby tightening the battery cog more and more, can solve the same problem for a day or two. I completely resolved the issue taking the new version of the cog from my other Stubby DNA edition. Maybe there Is a thicker cog for the San too, in the Stubby they made a new version for the cog. I think your problem Is not related to the chip.. but I don't have a San AIO so I can't be sure.