PirateOfDW Posted September 26, 2018 Report Share Posted September 26, 2018 Hi everyone! First time posting here. I've been wanting to use my 3d printer to make a mod for some time. I think I have a finalized design but I could definitely use a second look from all of the experienced modders here First the pics! It's my first time so go easy Front plate got a little washed out in the render. Still learning the software. Here it is with the lid off. I decided to capture the front face plate in the enclosure for two reasons. First I wanted to be able to remove the faceplate and board if needed. Secondly, because I incorporated the board standoffs into the faceplate it can't print in the same orientation as the rest of the enclosure without supports. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PirateOfDW Posted September 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2018 (edited) Battery: https://www.maxamps.com/lipo-2250-4s-14-8v-battery-pack I chose the battery based on a size I felt I was comfortable with. I didn't want it to be too big. I know watts determines cloud production and 4s gives you more watts. Sooooo... I thought it would be fun to make something that could produce large clouds. Is my thinking right here with the decision on this battery? 510 connector: I'm not exactly sure what this is? But it had a diagram so I used it for when I modeled the 510 connector for placement etc. I could definitely use some advice on what to use here. If someone had a model that would be amazing Switch: I'd like to use a separate switch but wasn't sure where it got wired in or what the best switch to use. I know it's a NO momentary switch. Anyone have any advice on a cool one to use?? Thanks everyone in advance for any advice you provide!! Also here's a better pic of the front. Oh! And the dimensions are 110mm x 68mm x 40mm. Does that seem like a reasonable and comfortable size? I won't be at my printer to print this until next week. Edited September 26, 2018 by PirateOfDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PirateOfDW Posted September 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2018 (edited) Also just for funsies here's everything laid out on the print bed. 6 hours to print the entire thing. Costs about $3 worth of plastic. Edited September 26, 2018 by PirateOfDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PirateOfDW Posted September 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2018 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PirateOfDW Posted September 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2018 I was curious what a larger "nicer" switch would look like. Found this one here https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Langir-Vandal-proof-push-button-switch-V16-16mm-Waterproof-stainless-steel/298413790.html Went ahead and modeled it roughly to see how it would fit. Pretty tight in there. I think I could move the 510 connector closer to the battery and wire it around the switch. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PirateOfDW Posted September 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2018 Finally decided how to make this stand out. I used to be in the navy lol. Also added slots for 3mm cylinder magnets on the lid to hold it all together. Front panel will prevent any lateral sliding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnHawke Posted October 13, 2018 Report Share Posted October 13, 2018 Great start! I'm learning Fusion360 myself For batteries, I'm leaning toward the VenomPower 30 or 50C types for 4 cell, they are MUCH smaller and much more inexpensive compared to MaxAMPs, (Their 4S, 1400 mAH 30C is 85mm x 30mm x 26.5mm) costs about $30. Sure, it only pushes 40A constant, but with the board limited to 10V and 60A, no really need for something extreme OH!, may want to look at batteries geared more toward Aircraft instead of Quads, sure, Lower C Rating, but you also get more mAH capacity in a smaller size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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